200 replies to this topic

[torana_nick]

Thanks for all your replays mate, you answered all the questions i need for the next few months. a few suspension questions but i am not up to that yet.
so on the shopping list air compressor and spray gun and lets lot forget the 2k primer work has died down for the next few weeks so hoping i can strip 80% of the car..

cheers.

[torana_nick]

small update, spent a few more hours on the engine bay today. its taking longer than i expected.. Hopefully can get my rad support sorted out soon some rust sorted out as well and get some paint down..

[torana_nick]

Hi david,

I am in pretty much the same boat as you mate. Not very michanical minded or car minded.
But I am a trade minded person so things sorta come easy. (exept welding) lol
This forum have alot of skilled people and to be honest all of my idias and inspiration comes from here.
Everyone is willing to give there opinion so don't be shy to ask.
And as for an end date I want it to be done by Xmas but there alot of commitments that slow me down.
Hoping to see some real progress over the weekend and next week.

Good luck with your project mate.

[torana_nick]

an other small update guys picked up the motor and t400 for the torie yesterday, hopefully i can slowly redo it while doing the body. not sure if its gonna be a stroker or just standard for the time being.
hoping to have the rest of the car back to bare metal over the Easter weekend as well so i should be uploading heaps of pics.

[torana_nick]

tunnel mods? i didnt know that. i thought everyone puts th400's into toranas.. i might trial fit before i paint the bay then. yea its got the yoke on the end of the box witch is a good thing..
might do some research about the mods that are needed..

[torana_nick]

ill trial fit the block and box next week to see whats needed. if it needs allot of mods might sell or swap it for a th350. i bought it pretty cheap so prob wont loose..
i was gonna use b&m shifter anyway so that wont matter. but my main priority is body at this stage and fabricating/welding replacement panels it really is the hardest thing i have ever had to do. gotta put my hands up for you blokes, you guys make it look easy that's for sure lol

[torana_nick]

yours looks almost like mine when i pulled mine apart, i haven't actually fixed mine yet i did buy a replacement from rares spairs and did not fit my car well, not sure how it fits other members cars. i am byuing an other one from ebay they look alot better and actually have the dip on the top like the original one.
http://www.ebay.com....8#ht_1423wt_905

Nah mate, it's all practice. Just jump in the deep end, you will know whats going on after a bit of welding. Good luck mate.

thanks mate i ended up welding a small patch on the car actually didn't end up coming out that bad, blew a few lil holes but other than that came out ok.
i have attempted to fab up the bonnet hinge section so many times and still not happy with it..

[torana_nick]

Some body repairs are easier than others, i've been in the trade for nearly 20 years & i'm still learning. When i was a third year apprentice, i bought a MIG welder & a $500 rust bucket HQ one tonner project. By the time i'd finished replacing both floor pans, both sills, the entire scuttle panel & countless other rusted panels, i'd learned more about panel fabrication & welding steel panels than i ever did at TAFE. Best advice i can give anyone doing likewise is trial fit everything & even if it looks like it's going to fit first go, tack & trial before fully welding. Nothing worse than finishing off a rust repair only to find you have to start over again because something won't fit or line up properly.

thats with anything i suppose practice makes perfect. and belive me i have a few sections i have to repair so by the end of it i am sure i will be a pro..

[torana_nick]

update pics

roof

quarter

me grinding back some welds

[torana_nick]

yea man, i was pretty happy with that quarter as well.. only a small section of bog, there is a lil section of rust that has had a bad repair near the window corner, and also a small section on the pilar you can see it if you look closely in the pic near the door its just a small hole so should be easy to fix.. tomorrow i am hoping to get the other side and 2 more doors back as well.. then i have the door jams left.. the fun part lol

[torana_nick]

quick question i went to the paint shop today, it was an old bloke that knew what he was talking about.. i asked for a 2k etch primer and he gave me epotec primer surfacer. he sed its the stuff to go onto bare metal and its fine to go over deoxedine and filler.. i told him i wanted etch primer and he told me thats the stuff.. do i have an etch primer or not? i am very confused....

[tuxedoss]

quick question i went to the paint shop today, it was an old bloke that knew what he was talking about.. i asked for a 2k etch primer and he gave me epotec primer surfacer. he sed its the stuff to go onto bare metal and its fine to go over deoxedine and filler.. i told him i wanted etch primer and he told me thats the stuff.. do i have an etch primer or not? i am very confused....

It's not an etch primer but a 2 part epoxy primer. Etch primer is not water proof and needs painting over as soon as possible, the epotec is as near as waterproof as your going to get for a primer, if kept out of the weather I've been told it's good for 12 months or longer. After much research and talking to my local supplier this seems to be the stuff to use for any bare metal thats not going to be painted in a day or two, which is most projetcs on here. Also told it sticks very well to bare metal and you can apply filler over it. It comes in a variety of colours, which colour did you get.
Also retro rods are working on a bonnet hinge repair panel, from speaking to him it sounded like it was going to be the whole end of the inner guard, from top of guard down to where it meets the chassis rail and back to the firewall.

Edited by tuxedoss, 07 April 2012 - 10:45 PM.

[torana_nick]

so i shouldn't etch prime and just go for that? i bought the grey.. the bloke at the paint shop suggested first bog then paint... not the other way around.
obviously he knows what he is talking about he is an old fella. lol i sprayed a light coat of 1k etch before, i have to sand that now to paint the 2k stuff right?

[tuxedoss]

so i shouldn't etch prime and just go for that? i bought the grey.. the bloke at the paint shop suggested first bog then paint... not the other way around.
obviously he knows what he is talking about he is an old fella. lol i sprayed a light coat of 1k etch before, i have to sand that now to paint the 2k stuff right?

I haven't used it yet, not up to paint yet, but from all my research it goes straight over the bare metal and bog. Only mentioned you can bog over it as you can't most with most primers but apparently ok over 2k epoxy, the advantage being i think is the bog is pourous so if left uncoated could allow moisture to hit the steel. No need for any etch primer and from what I've read on here not many people like the etch primer expecially the 1K stuff. Do a quick search on here for epotec, you'll find some good info.
And I think the grey is the one to use, the paintshop mentioned something about being more protective than the other colours.

Edited by tuxedoss, 07 April 2012 - 11:01 PM.