Many thanks go to many people for the help in sourcing LH-LX-UC Steering Rack parts.
My LX project has been floundering for 27 years in the shed.
As I re-did the front suspension I noticed a huge amount of play where the tie rod meets the Rack tube .. Rip out the rack complete, disassemble, and find that somehow the Left Hand end INNER Guide Bush, it supports the rack shaft, was gone .. not there .. disintegrated .. crumbled.
The obvious answer was age alone, as the car has done nothing, and gone nowhere, in all that time.
I hunted litterally high and low, and even a GMH Torana member ..FuzzyPumper (I dare NOT ask where that comes from) .. eluded to an old Noltec (now defunct) item which is no longer available. Everyone I spoke to told of past history availability, ... no call for the item, ... not necessary, ....haven't seen one in years .. to quote a few comments. SuperPro were helpful but the item was also unavailable.
However, a call to REDRANGER PRODUCTS at Somersby near Gosford, NSW, led me to discover that these bushes ARE available , but they are listed as Commodore NOT also for TORANA.
Nolathane part No is ... 41029
Whiteline part No is ......W11049 ...a similarity to the old Noltec part No N11049
The Nolathane part is a kit with the sacrifical pin included. You must drill out this retainer pin inbetween the lock ring and the tie rod end retainer ring to service the shaft, or replace a tie rod.
Where the specs got confused and lost is this. Nolathane/Whiteline make the bush out of Urethane, with a hexagonal centring hole, to allow luricant flow, IF you use the specified 140 grade oil, but most businesses now use Lithium Graphite grease anyway.
The OD (Outside Diameter) of the bush is spec'd at 34.6mm, length 24.3mm, ID (Inside diameter) states 30mm.
BUT, the ID measurement is taken at the PEAK of the Hex pattern, not across the FLATS. Your LH-LX-UC Rack Shaft is 25mm dia, and that is the corresponding dimension of the Bush across the flats.
The Website listings for Whiteline and Nolathane have the dimensions displayed with a graphic for the above part No's .. but keep in mind that these ID dimensions are NOT precise because of the hex shape.
The part No's do not relate to TORANA at all. but I am assured that they will add this content to their listing AFTER I have purchased and fitted their bush !! . . .at my expense of coarse.
I will state quite clearly and honestly here, that Steve and Grant at REDRANGER were absolutely bloody fantastic to deal with. Whiteline has an Online purchasing option .. Nolathane dosen't..
I do not work with Redranger the company, nor am I working at a motor repair business ... I'm just an ol' fart trying to assist anyone else who needs that area of repair (the Rack) sorted out.
Also. during the Hazy `70's, it was common practice to mix a slurry of Lithium Graphite Grease with the 140 oil and load the rack sparingly with this mix. It didn't leak, or drip .. and still did the job quite well as when you turned lock to lock it was still viscous enough to pump through the Guide Bush ... just a thought
Damn ... I wonder what ever happened to my ol' March 17th Green XU1 bought new in `73 from Zupps in Brissy, last seen around Wyong .. and my PurrPull GTR with the original XU1 engine . . . .um . . . . let's see, what did I do after `76 ???
LH-LX Steering Rack Reco Notes
Started by
_gam_
, Apr 12 2012 04:30 PM
LX Steering Rack Rack bushes LX L/Hand Bush
12 replies to this topic
#2
_walpolla_
_walpolla_
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Posted 12 April 2012 - 09:19 PM
Geoff, that is a gem !
I have a couple of racks that I want to re do as spares. Very timely your info is.
thanks, Rod
I have a couple of racks that I want to re do as spares. Very timely your info is.
thanks, Rod
#3
AbsynthHatch
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 12:10 AM
Hey Geoff
How do you dismantle the steering shafts (if thats the word) to actually access where the bush sits
I have a UC rack and even though it all feels good I thought I would reco it, but could not for the life of me gain access to these bushes
Any help, photo's etc would be greatly appreciated
Cheers Mark
How do you dismantle the steering shafts (if thats the word) to actually access where the bush sits
I have a UC rack and even though it all feels good I thought I would reco it, but could not for the life of me gain access to these bushes
Any help, photo's etc would be greatly appreciated
Cheers Mark
#4
_robslxhatch_
_robslxhatch_
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 07:04 AM
Er , i have fitted 2 superpro rack bushes in the last 6 months. I am pretty sure they are still available!! , I'll have to look into this....
#5
_gam_
_gam_
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 11:30 AM
G`day again. I have to correct an error too. The grease/oil mix is Molebnenum .. Moly Grease .. not Lithium, though the Litho would still suffice.
Apologies .. brain fade in the heat of the moment.
The tie rod ends are secured to the rack shaft by a small pin that is installed between the locknut and the tierod end cap/retainer. There should be 2 dimples in the lock nut .. one will have the pin and a sqish from the notch to hold the pin in place. I think it's 5/64", but CHECK first !!
Now .. SuperPro were great to deal with too. Jemma was my contact there ..she's restoing an LX too, good girl .. but had the impression that the LEFT HAND inner bush was sintered bronze. This maybe the case in some instances, but I've never seen a metal bush as such, though I think LC-LJ's may have had some.
SuperPro, Nolathane, Whiteline .. and many others are out there in the marketplace. My research led me to Redranger, and that's where it all stopped as they supplied instantly .. NOT a problem, and as close as a 1300 call ..done.
And that ISN'T degrading another manufacturer OR supplier .. as I said, Jemma was fantastic and SUPERPRO do a great job with their products, as I've rebushed my ol' GQ Patrol entirely with SuperPro, and a lot of items in My HR31 Skyline Coupe..
Keep in mind what I discovered .. that the EARLY Commodore bush is the SAME bush, and SuperPro DO supply them, but again they make NO reference to LH-LX-UC Torana ...BUT check the dimensions as GMH had a few suppliers of many differnet parts.
THERE IS ONLY ONE BUSH .. LEFT HAND END !! The right is supported and guided by another PLASTIC spring-loaded block, and be well aware of the shim packs and VERY fine gaskets. If you replace a GASKET, you'll be adding or subtracting shims too .. CAUTION, ay.
Hope this clarifies the bush issue. However some racks DO NOT have the lock pin, they use a lock washer with a tab that is hammered down for security.
CV Joints Auistralia at Rose Hill in Sydney were awesome to deal with too. They have sent the Tie Rod end boots at very moderate cost, but they also reco a rack for $160. Sid or Tony were the main culprits I spoke too .. great service.
Best regrads. Geoff
Apologies .. brain fade in the heat of the moment.
The tie rod ends are secured to the rack shaft by a small pin that is installed between the locknut and the tierod end cap/retainer. There should be 2 dimples in the lock nut .. one will have the pin and a sqish from the notch to hold the pin in place. I think it's 5/64", but CHECK first !!
Now .. SuperPro were great to deal with too. Jemma was my contact there ..she's restoing an LX too, good girl .. but had the impression that the LEFT HAND inner bush was sintered bronze. This maybe the case in some instances, but I've never seen a metal bush as such, though I think LC-LJ's may have had some.
SuperPro, Nolathane, Whiteline .. and many others are out there in the marketplace. My research led me to Redranger, and that's where it all stopped as they supplied instantly .. NOT a problem, and as close as a 1300 call ..done.
And that ISN'T degrading another manufacturer OR supplier .. as I said, Jemma was fantastic and SUPERPRO do a great job with their products, as I've rebushed my ol' GQ Patrol entirely with SuperPro, and a lot of items in My HR31 Skyline Coupe..
Keep in mind what I discovered .. that the EARLY Commodore bush is the SAME bush, and SuperPro DO supply them, but again they make NO reference to LH-LX-UC Torana ...BUT check the dimensions as GMH had a few suppliers of many differnet parts.
THERE IS ONLY ONE BUSH .. LEFT HAND END !! The right is supported and guided by another PLASTIC spring-loaded block, and be well aware of the shim packs and VERY fine gaskets. If you replace a GASKET, you'll be adding or subtracting shims too .. CAUTION, ay.
Hope this clarifies the bush issue. However some racks DO NOT have the lock pin, they use a lock washer with a tab that is hammered down for security.
CV Joints Auistralia at Rose Hill in Sydney were awesome to deal with too. They have sent the Tie Rod end boots at very moderate cost, but they also reco a rack for $160. Sid or Tony were the main culprits I spoke too .. great service.
Best regrads. Geoff
#6
_Watto81_
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Posted 15 April 2012 - 02:54 PM
G'day, new to this forum and toranas. Just bought a LH and the steering seems to be much heavier than other mates toranas. Car was originaly 173ci but now 308ci, can anyone help with this?, could this bush you's are talking about be the problem?
Edited by Watto81, 15 April 2012 - 02:59 PM.
#7
_cruiza_
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Posted 15 April 2012 - 03:32 PM
Hi Steve
welcome to the forums, in answer to your question not likely, there were a number of different steering rack ratios quicker steering = heavier steering also fat tires and who knows someone may have played mix and match with an old car and you different steering are arms lowered suspension etc etc. the biggest difference I found was tires, how wide and what air pressure you are running in your tires.
welcome to the forums, in answer to your question not likely, there were a number of different steering rack ratios quicker steering = heavier steering also fat tires and who knows someone may have played mix and match with an old car and you different steering are arms lowered suspension etc etc. the biggest difference I found was tires, how wide and what air pressure you are running in your tires.
#8
_robslxhatch_
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Posted 15 April 2012 - 04:45 PM
Just to add to what Cruiza said , while the bush (or absence there of) wont generally affect steering heaviness, a dry rack with rusty worn bearings can be if you get a couple of these put in http://www.toranarpa.../product/SRB001 it could make a world of difference. But before spending unnecessary time or money drop the tie rod ends off and make sure the wheels swing freely from side to side because a seized ball joint can make the steering heavy also.
Edited by robslxhatch, 15 April 2012 - 04:48 PM.
#9
AbsynthHatch
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Posted 15 April 2012 - 08:24 PM
Thanks for that info Geoff
Is there any procedure to setting up the clearance and/or lash of the pinion and rack?
Is there any procedure to setting up the clearance and/or lash of the pinion and rack?
#10
_Watto81_
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Posted 15 April 2012 - 10:07 PM
she's got 245's on her and yeh I thought the pressures would come into it so went down to the servo and they had 27psi! pumped em up to 35 and it helped abit but still alot more heavy than me mates which has 245's aswell but mine does have what I'd reckon are super low king springs in her. The whole front end has all new bushes, shocks, springs, rotors, calipers, etc and a white line sway bar. Dont like it that low anyway and was planning to put standard or only lowered a little rears in her but if lifting the front aswell helps the steering i'll do it. Had a vk as my first car and it had no power steer and a 12" steering wheel and the torri is heavier. Besides physically turning and counting turns on a rack how do you tell what ratios it has? is it marked somewhere?
#11
_gam_
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Posted 17 April 2012 - 07:39 PM
To Mark in Cairns initially .. yes, there is a very definite `proceedure' to set up. The lash is basically automatically deleted when you doa trial assembly, because on the opposing side of the rack, oposite the pinion is a spring loaded nylon pressure block. However, I have seen racks that are totally knackered smack in the middle of the rack shaft because of vibration or wrong setup .. and the rest of the rack is perfect. Pity.
The setup is reasonably easy, and is simply a matter of checking pre load with a small fishing scale to manufacturer specs. I know it in pounds weight as a measure, but all the relevant info is VERY easily read in any of the common manuals. The hard part these days is if you replace gaskets or bearings, and you have to re-shim. Finding the shims MAY be a problem, but I believe Commodore are same or similar.
I have fitted up the new bush .. a Nolathane kit 41029, with the lock pin included. Sourced through Bursons for $20. The NEW bush, in place, was heavily lubed and simply pressed into the locking groove by hand. But, working the fine threaded end of the rack THROUGH the new bush was a worry, as the fine thread acts like a file. I loaded both the rack end AND the bush with Moly Grease, and wiggled the shaft through gently, rather than screw or just a hard push. Maybe three marriages has taught me that a gentle but persuasive decent wiggle is better than a good hard shove !!! MMm .. LOL
Assembly was with a conjuction of Moly Grease and 140 Grade oil. The rack and the pinion were given a LIBERAL spread of Moly grease, the bearings got 140/Moly. Mount the Left Boot in place and secure whith clamps/cable ties, then I dribbled a mix (about 200ml) of 140/Moly Grease into the right hand end and fit the Boot in place, and secure with cable ties or the original clamps.
The rest of the process was a delight, and CV Joints Aust supplied the new Rack End Boots or Dust Covers. Sid is the man !!!
RedRanger have agreed to revising their catalogue to include the addition of LH-LX-UC Torana Rack End Bush, which it at present does NOT include as a vehicle fitment.
Easy, but VERY messy sometimes.
The setup is reasonably easy, and is simply a matter of checking pre load with a small fishing scale to manufacturer specs. I know it in pounds weight as a measure, but all the relevant info is VERY easily read in any of the common manuals. The hard part these days is if you replace gaskets or bearings, and you have to re-shim. Finding the shims MAY be a problem, but I believe Commodore are same or similar.
I have fitted up the new bush .. a Nolathane kit 41029, with the lock pin included. Sourced through Bursons for $20. The NEW bush, in place, was heavily lubed and simply pressed into the locking groove by hand. But, working the fine threaded end of the rack THROUGH the new bush was a worry, as the fine thread acts like a file. I loaded both the rack end AND the bush with Moly Grease, and wiggled the shaft through gently, rather than screw or just a hard push. Maybe three marriages has taught me that a gentle but persuasive decent wiggle is better than a good hard shove !!! MMm .. LOL
Assembly was with a conjuction of Moly Grease and 140 Grade oil. The rack and the pinion were given a LIBERAL spread of Moly grease, the bearings got 140/Moly. Mount the Left Boot in place and secure whith clamps/cable ties, then I dribbled a mix (about 200ml) of 140/Moly Grease into the right hand end and fit the Boot in place, and secure with cable ties or the original clamps.
The rest of the process was a delight, and CV Joints Aust supplied the new Rack End Boots or Dust Covers. Sid is the man !!!
RedRanger have agreed to revising their catalogue to include the addition of LH-LX-UC Torana Rack End Bush, which it at present does NOT include as a vehicle fitment.
Easy, but VERY messy sometimes.
#12
_gam_
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Posted 18 April 2012 - 10:23 AM
Oh yeah .. oops, forgot !! When you insert the bush into the rack tube, be sure that the small machined groove is CLEAN. This groove is about 50mm down inside the Left Hand end, just below the first machined step. There are 6 very small tabs that protrude from the new bush, and these LOCATE IN that groove to hold the bush in place. It's extremely hard to work out the preload on the pinion shaft when the bush is in place too, as the sheer pressure of the new bush puts a huge frictional load on the the rack shaft ... what I did was to check the pinion shaft load on the bearing crush first, with the old shim set which was ideal for MY liking ... not loose and wobbly, not tight and binding .. and the shim set was fine. I disassembled the rack again, fitted the bush, and did final lube and assembly. If anyone has noticed here, I haven't mentioned, or replaced the pinion shaft seal. This one on my rack was as good as new, so I left it in place. To procure another MAY be another adventure . . .for someone else !!! Geoff
Bugger ..as I'm rebuilding the car, I am keeping a pic documentation of EVERYTHING I'm doing ...
BUT I can't add pics here because the files are too big.
Bugger ..as I'm rebuilding the car, I am keeping a pic documentation of EVERYTHING I'm doing ...
BUT I can't add pics here because the files are too big.
#13
Tyre biter
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Posted 18 April 2012 - 10:47 AM
Bugger ..as I'm rebuilding the car, I am keeping a pic documentation of EVERYTHING I'm doing ...
BUT I can't add pics here because the files are too big.
This is a great thread - thanks to all.
gam - to add pics; use your Photobucket account or similar and therein you can re-size the photos so they can be posted.
Typically 640 x 480 is fine.
Then click on the 'direct link' (right hand side of your image in photobucket) to copy and past into your post using the 'image' icon.
Hope this helps you better explain your efforts to date - the old 'a picture tells a thousand words' sentiment comes to mind.
Cheers, TB
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: LX, Steering Rack, Rack bushes, LX L/Hand Bush
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