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Bonnet release cable


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#1 _BARRY JACKPOT_

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Posted 18 May 2012 - 05:48 AM

What does the bonnet release cable attach to inside the car. I can't find it in any manual and there are no obvious holes to screw into. A picture would be great, I'm assuming it sits down to the right of the headlight switch but I can't figure it out.

#2 S pack

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Posted 18 May 2012 - 01:38 PM

Hi Chris
This is how mine is mounted. I believe it was fitted by the Dealer.
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Posted Image

#3 _sunburst73-xu1_

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Posted 18 May 2012 - 07:55 PM

Hey Bud,have alook at theses pics.This is how I fitted mine,the only thing I couldn't swallow is drilling 3 holes into my inner nose cone.
Cheers Dane
Attached File  SCAN0001.jpg   121.57K   246 downloadsAttached File  SCAN0002.jpg   95.09K   239 downloadsAttached File  SCAN0003.jpg   118.66K   325 downloads

#4 S pack

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Posted 18 May 2012 - 08:33 PM

Hey Dane

My release cable runs across, and is attached to, the top of the radiator support panel not the nose cone.
There is a recessed line in the support panel that it sits into.

I noticed your instructions are dated 11/71 (LC vintage). Maybe the routing was changed for the LJ's. :dontknow:

#5 _sunburst73-xu1_

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Posted 18 May 2012 - 08:42 PM

Yeah I don't know Dave,maybe.
You would think it would be the other way around because of the old trick of putting your hand up under the grill and pulling the cable to open the bonnet,defeats the perpose of having a cable anyway.
The other thing is that its the same part number in the LJ parts book to.
cheers Dane

Edited by sunburst73-xu1, 18 May 2012 - 08:46 PM.


#6 frash da bucket

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 12:21 PM

Hi Dane,

 

I know of 5 xu-1s have there cables attached to their nose cones,72's and 73's.

 

Regards John.



#7 _big jack_

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 05:35 PM

I am also fitting an internal bonnet release, but when I went to drill the bonnet release latch for the cable to go thru no go it seems like it is hardened steel, any ideas? Sorry for the thread steal.

 

Thanks. John. 



#8 S pack

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Posted 12 June 2013 - 05:47 PM

Yes John they are hardened steel of some sort. Tried cutting one with a hacksaw once, took the edge straight off the teeth.

The original bonnet release kits came with the appropriate lever to swap over the original external release lever.



#9 _big jack_

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 09:39 AM

Thanks Dave for that, any idea where to get the kit from?

 

Cheers, John.



#10 S pack

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 09:50 AM

Thanks Dave for that, any idea where to get the kit from?

 

Cheers, John.

GMH don't make the bonnet release kits anymore. You'd have to find one NOS, and to be honest I've never ever come across a NOS kit.

 

Don't give up, the hole can be drilled, just need some cutting oil, a few drill bits to blunt and/or break, a bit of patience and don't use high speed on your drill. If you have a drill press even better.

One of those new fangled titanium coated drill bits might be the go.

 

Cheers

Dave.



#11 S pack

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 10:15 AM

Just to add to the above, the release lever cable hole dia. is approx 2mm.

2.5mm drill is too big and 1.5mm is too small. The hole is an imperial size so what ever is the closest equivalent of 2mm should be fine.

All my small imperial drill bits are missing, lol.



#12 _big jack_

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 11:02 AM

Thanks again Dave.

Yeah I'll just be patient and take it steady.

 

Cheers, John.



#13 N/A-PWR

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 12:54 PM

Hi All,

Cobalt drill bits are harder than High speed steel drill bits and Titanium Carbide drill bits can drill through a file.

In regards with the Titanium Nitrite drill bits ( gold looking ones ), they are a coated High speed steel drill bit and once the coating is burnt off the tip, it is a normal drill bit again. Dave I



#14 _big jack_

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 01:57 PM

^ Thanks Dave I



#15 _boyrex_

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Posted 27 March 2015 - 02:00 PM

I am in the process of restoring bonnet catch parts to fit a NASCO Cable and Hood Cable Control Package - PN 2818704.

Does anyone have any actual pictures of one installed in an LC / LJ as I've never seen one.

 



#16 Jaymack72

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Posted 19 August 2018 - 10:14 AM

Hi guys I know this an old post but I had the same problem trying to drill hole in bonnet catch years ago, I was telling my fitting teacher at tafe about it and he told me that they are case hardened by a chemical process, so as you drill the case hardening goes deeper into the metal, he told me to grind the coating off on both sides then drill it, this worked a treat. Hopefully this helps in the future.

Edited by Jaymack72, 19 August 2018 - 10:15 AM.


#17 Indy Orange

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Posted 19 August 2018 - 12:26 PM

These are the go ,I've drilled stainless steel bench tops with these,and a bonnet latch with no problems .

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#18 jd lj

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 05:02 PM

I'm in the process of tidying up a few small things on my LJ and lubricating the bonnet release cable is one of them as it's good when cold but very hard to pull when the engine bay is hot. However I was looking at the routing of the cable and would like to know if the cable is meant to go through the wiring harness grommet or through the grommet for the windscreen washer hoses?

#19 RallyRed

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 05:07 PM

Post of 18 May 2012 , in this thread shows it?

#20 jd lj

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 06:34 PM

I was looking at that picture earlier and it appears that it's possibly coming through the windscreen washer hose grommet but it's not really all that clear. The other point that I was unsure of is the fact that that diagram shows it screwed to the nose cone instead of the radiator support panel, so was the rest of the routing the same in both situations?

#21 RallyRed

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 06:43 PM

hmm...my LC has one, but I'm not at home atm.
I reckon??? they were all fitted at the dealers?...so maybe the 2nd year apprentice just picked the hole that suited him?.

#22 jd lj

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Posted 21 September 2018 - 04:03 PM

I pulled the cable out and removed the wire from the sheath to straighten out any slight bends and lubricate the inside of the sheath.
I then reassembled it and refitted to the car but went through the windscreen washer hose grommet instead of the wiring harness grommet and was able to make it a more direct route, enough to cut off almost 100mm from the overall length.

So far it seems to operate much better now.

#23 RallyRed

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Posted 21 September 2018 - 04:54 PM

good stuff.. mine has always been a little hard to pull...thought it was just the rssistance of the bonnet catch spring. Might give the lube job a try.

#24 S pack

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Posted 21 September 2018 - 05:37 PM

I then reassembled it and refitted to the car but went through the windscreen washer hose grommet instead of the wiring harness grommet

:spoton:



#25 jd lj

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Posted 30 September 2018 - 08:45 PM

I'm thinking that I'm going to pull the cable back out and cover it in clear heat shrink. The outer sheath is made from a metal coil and once well lubricated the oil can work it's way to the outside of the coils where it'll attract dirt and grime etc. So the clear heat shrink should prevent this but keep it looking original.




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