hi fellas , just wondering if any one has used or had any expierience with the epotec 408
epoxy primer made by protec been told its really good stuff sticks well is water proof and you can apply filler over it as well sounds like it would be areally good base to start with
pocock
epotec 408
Started by
_pocock_
, May 23 2012 11:28 AM
33 replies to this topic
#2
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 23 May 2012 - 06:11 PM
It is fantastic.
NLA though, unless your supplier has old stock???
forget which product replaced it about six months ago as im still using old stock myself, can look it up if you wish.
Cheers.
NLA though, unless your supplier has old stock???
forget which product replaced it about six months ago as im still using old stock myself, can look it up if you wish.
Cheers.
#3
_pocock_
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Posted 23 May 2012 - 06:27 PM
yeah mate i am in brisbane and when i rang up they never said it was not available, how long can you leave it for i was told if you leave it for more than a week you have to sand it with 250 w/d and reapply a fresh coat before applying your hi build because it go goes to hard bomber have you had any thing to do with there barcryl 620 iso free acrylic 2 k
pocock
pocock
#4
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 23 May 2012 - 07:37 PM
You probably SHOULD apply a fresh coat, wouldnt say you would absolutely have to. You can put the Urethane high build on wet on wet, And you will want to put more Epoxy over the bog repairs etc anyway, so when everythings ready for high build just mix up a bit more epoxy and blow a coat over, then start on the urethane (or polyester if you want to get hard core fillage) high build, assuming your using 2k high build as well. Note if you use a Polyester high build (spray putty) then you will need to put a urethane primer surfacer over that before top coating.
Yes i've sprayed 620. Its pretty shit, but about as good as you could expect from an ISO free product, my opinion of them is low. Personally i'd use a normal 1k acrylic laquer before i'd use an ISO free 2k.
Cheers.
Yes i've sprayed 620. Its pretty shit, but about as good as you could expect from an ISO free product, my opinion of them is low. Personally i'd use a normal 1k acrylic laquer before i'd use an ISO free 2k.
Cheers.
#5
torana_nick
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Posted 23 May 2012 - 07:48 PM
interested in the reply's, i am very close to painting my car in this..
from what i have heard from the bloke at the paint shop and some forum members it seems like really good stuff.but the bloke at the paint shop suggested filler on bare metal then prime.. but i have heard of people doing it over it...
from what i have heard from the bloke at the paint shop and some forum members it seems like really good stuff.but the bloke at the paint shop suggested filler on bare metal then prime.. but i have heard of people doing it over it...
#6
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 23 May 2012 - 07:54 PM
Best to put any polyester (bog, spray bog, spot bog) over an epoxy if you give half a shit about the vehicle.
Polyester on bare metal is terribly outdated and only really good for quick stick and flicks.
Cheers.
Polyester on bare metal is terribly outdated and only really good for quick stick and flicks.
Cheers.
#7
_pocock_
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Posted 23 May 2012 - 11:12 PM
yeah i am going to use an iso free hi build i hope .....although i was told not to apply acrylic laqurer over 2k primer as it likes to bite into the primer and it wont bite into the 2k primer because it is harder than an acrylic primer but plenty would disagree with that because a lot of blokes seem tho apply acrylic laqurer top coat over 2k primer with no problems at all whats your thoughts
i was just going to get the car back to bare metal apply the epotec 408 then do any body filling repairs over the top of the 408, apply some more 408 over the repairs give it a rub then apply the hi build the bloke at protec told me that acrylic laqurer would probably be better than iso free 620 seems strange though doesnt it you would think with the epotec 408 applyed and then the 2k hi build it would be an excelllent base for acrylic laqurer top coat and give a great end result
pocock
i was just going to get the car back to bare metal apply the epotec 408 then do any body filling repairs over the top of the 408, apply some more 408 over the repairs give it a rub then apply the hi build the bloke at protec told me that acrylic laqurer would probably be better than iso free 620 seems strange though doesnt it you would think with the epotec 408 applyed and then the 2k hi build it would be an excelllent base for acrylic laqurer top coat and give a great end result
pocock
#8
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 24 May 2012 - 05:44 PM
I"ve never actually put lacquer strait over a urethane high build primer, and personally i'd be inclined to put a coat of acrylic primer surfacer over the urethane then start on the laquer.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#9
_tomo123_
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Posted 25 May 2012 - 01:35 PM
i brought a 4L kit of this about a month ago from Auto West Paints (penrith not much help if your in Brissy).
great product to use, im a very amatuer painter and the finish turned out great.
i was told to bog over it. if it sits for more then a few months cut it back and reapply before spraying high build.
if your in western Sydney Auto West Paints great place, they're always happy to help.
great product to use, im a very amatuer painter and the finish turned out great.
i was told to bog over it. if it sits for more then a few months cut it back and reapply before spraying high build.
if your in western Sydney Auto West Paints great place, they're always happy to help.
#10
_pocock_
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Posted 25 May 2012 - 01:51 PM
yes can get it here in brisbane no problems when you say if it sits for few months to cut it back and reapply before applying hi build
do you have to rub back the new coat before applying the hi build
pocock
do you have to rub back the new coat before applying the hi build
pocock
#11
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 25 May 2012 - 06:37 PM
NO, like i said......
Cheers.
Cheers.
#12
_pocock_
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Posted 21 June 2012 - 10:47 AM
hi have started to strip the paint from the car using paint stripper and clean and strip discs
found the best way is to apply the paint stripper on not to thick then leave it a bit then use a [paint scraper to remove the paint seems to take most of it off at least back to the original paint then i will
remove the rest with the poly strip discs it will clean the surface as well and then i will orbital the bare steel with 80 grit. i=still waiting for the discs to arrive they reckon they sent them last friday but here we are thursday and no sign of them yet. so the car will be sitting around in bare metal for a few days or so not ideal. got the epotec 408 today and the bl;oke at protec said not to apply any bog over it to only apply bog over bare steel i said every one does it he said no one he knows does, he said to make sure you sand it within 2 days with 120 grit and then you can leave it for as long as you like just making sure you get it clean with w&g remover before applying and hi build primer he reckons if you dont sand it with in 2 days it will be to hard to sand yet the rep told me the exact opposite do these ...blokes know what there on about .????? can you apply any brand of filler over the epotec
i have the 3m brand here is that alright
pocock
found the best way is to apply the paint stripper on not to thick then leave it a bit then use a [paint scraper to remove the paint seems to take most of it off at least back to the original paint then i will
remove the rest with the poly strip discs it will clean the surface as well and then i will orbital the bare steel with 80 grit. i=still waiting for the discs to arrive they reckon they sent them last friday but here we are thursday and no sign of them yet. so the car will be sitting around in bare metal for a few days or so not ideal. got the epotec 408 today and the bl;oke at protec said not to apply any bog over it to only apply bog over bare steel i said every one does it he said no one he knows does, he said to make sure you sand it within 2 days with 120 grit and then you can leave it for as long as you like just making sure you get it clean with w&g remover before applying and hi build primer he reckons if you dont sand it with in 2 days it will be to hard to sand yet the rep told me the exact opposite do these ...blokes know what there on about .????? can you apply any brand of filler over the epotec
i have the 3m brand here is that alright
pocock
#13
_Marco72_
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Posted 21 June 2012 - 09:16 PM
Ha mate repairs/disc sand 36 grit over repairs then bog .sand 36 grit paper then 80 grit then 150 grit then 408 bog does not stick to paint
#14
tuxedoss
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 09:45 AM
After reading quite a bit about the epotec 408 those in the know say definatley filler over the epotec, the reason being filler will absorb moisture where the eoptec won't, therefore no worries of the metal underneath going rusty.
The eoptec is nothing like the 1k etch primers or acrylic primers that were used 20 or 30 years ago, some people still seem to be doing things they way they did 30 years ago, you would not put filler over 1K etch or primer.
Bomber, was in my local paint shop last week and he mainly sells Protec and said trhe 408 was still available and he sells heaps of it.Where did you hear it was NLA
The eoptec is nothing like the 1k etch primers or acrylic primers that were used 20 or 30 years ago, some people still seem to be doing things they way they did 30 years ago, you would not put filler over 1K etch or primer.
Bomber, was in my local paint shop last week and he mainly sells Protec and said trhe 408 was still available and he sells heaps of it.Where did you hear it was NLA
#15
_pocock_
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 10:10 AM
thanks brett ,
yes mate i have the 408 got it here in brisbane, i had all good intentions to use it under the filler and i still will be
the bloke at protec said not to when i bought it ...( if you have a look at my previous post from yesterday) i think you can probably apply filler over bare metal or over epoxy,, as you say it one of those issues but it is a bit confusing one bloke says yes another no
pocock
yes mate i have the 408 got it here in brisbane, i had all good intentions to use it under the filler and i still will be
the bloke at protec said not to when i bought it ...( if you have a look at my previous post from yesterday) i think you can probably apply filler over bare metal or over epoxy,, as you say it one of those issues but it is a bit confusing one bloke says yes another no
pocock
#16
tuxedoss
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 10:18 AM
You'd think/hope you can take the advice of the guy selling it but I've found these days with all the information available to us its better to also do your own research and make your own informed decision.
#17
_pocock_
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 10:51 AM
yeah brett
i have found that out,, that a lot of these guys that sell the products are really not up to speed with the products they sell
and you can get a lot of different answers from people who work at the same companies selling the same products.
i guess painting cars is a fairly grey area some methods work for some people and sometimes they dont
pocock
i have found that out,, that a lot of these guys that sell the products are really not up to speed with the products they sell
and you can get a lot of different answers from people who work at the same companies selling the same products.
i guess painting cars is a fairly grey area some methods work for some people and sometimes they dont
pocock
#18
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 08:41 PM
Ha mate repairs/disc sand 36 grit over repairs then bog .sand 36 grit paper then 80 grit then 150 grit then 408 bog does not stick to paint
Mate, your only about 15 years behind the times...The only statement in your decisive, informative and authoritive post that i heavily disagree with with my years of experience in automotive and industrial painting is "bog does not stick to paint". That is utter and total bullshit, ever accidentally dropped a dag of bog on some shiny, unprepped paintwork under where your working?? Try to get it off?? Yeah.....Trust me it sticks to an Epoxy primer just frOcking fine.
Bog is fine over bare metal, most panel shops do it that way, in fact i did it myself at work yesterday, but the reason panel shops put it over bare metal is time. Time is money, epoxy's dry slow, frOck waiting for an epoxy before putting the polyester on!!!
Panel shops do not do quality work, they do quick work that looks good when done....
After reading quite a bit about the epotec 408 those in the know say definatley filler over the epotec, the reason being filler will absorb moisture where the eoptec won't, therefore no worries of the metal underneath going rusty.
The eoptec is nothing like the 1k etch primers or acrylic primers that were used 20 or 30 years ago, some people still seem to be doing things they way they did 30 years ago, you would not put filler over 1K etch or primer.
Exactly. And i'll state right here and now that i have done it myself, Polyester over Epoxy, several times, and on some fairly fussy stuff (like 70's harley tanks/guards). Also in my fairly hard wearing test bed (work, industrial drilling gear) polyester over epoxy does seem to last markedly longer, in the 7 years or so dicking around/research i've been able to do.
Bomber, was in my local paint shop last week and he mainly sells Protec and said trhe 408 was still available and he sells heaps of it.Where did you hear it was NLA
From the head QLD rep (Steve, nice bloke, got his number in my phone) at the last trade show a few months ago when they revealed there new products and stated that some of the old products (Epotec 408 included) were going to be discontinued.
Barrier EX-408 is still available, and will be for the foreseeable future, but Epotec 408 (all protec here, dont get confused lol) has been replaced by AP-4110 epoxy primer.
There will likely still be stock of Epotec 408, but i assure you it wont be for long, think it was March they stopped making it, so cant be much left.
Please dont confuse Protec-Barrier EX-408 with Protec Epotec 408. Different products, though similar characteristics.
Hmm, come to think of it, the amount of plugging i do/info i give out i should be on Protecs payroll......
Cheers.
#19
tuxedoss
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 08:56 PM
So is the AP-4110 a new improved version of the epotec 408 or are we taking a step backwards?
#20
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 09:04 PM
On paper, its a lot nicer, Have yet to try it though.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#21
_pocock_
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 10:53 PM
yeah no worries fellas i will be doing as you suggest bomber bogging over epoxy ,, yeah i got a 5 litre kit of epotec 408 grey/green
from protec on wednesday. as i say the guy behind the counter said he wouldnt recommend it but i think it was the rep steve who said you could
pocok
from protec on wednesday. as i say the guy behind the counter said he wouldnt recommend it but i think it was the rep steve who said you could
pocok
#22
tuxedoss
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Posted 23 June 2012 - 09:14 AM
Also from what I'm told the grey green is the one to get as it has something in it that the other colors don't. Something about better protection and lasts much longer untainted. Should have listened a bit better.
#23
_pocock_
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Posted 23 June 2012 - 01:11 PM
yeah i heard that myself i think they said it was 100% water proof and the others were not 100% water proof dont know if that is
true or not you would think that the colour would not make a lot of difference
pocock
true or not you would think that the colour would not make a lot of difference
pocock
#24
tuxedoss
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Posted 23 June 2012 - 05:56 PM
my last post shoud say unpainted not untainted, stupid iPad.
#25
_Marco72_
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Posted 25 June 2012 - 08:13 PM
Bomber I tryed it could not get a feathered edge no need to get your toes up c--k head
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