I have market value insurance, Just hoping it's not deemed a repairable write off.
82 WB Ute Crashed
Started by
_ivekilledem_
, Jun 21 2012 11:18 PM
34 replies to this topic
#1
_ivekilledem_
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Posted 21 June 2012 - 11:18 PM
A car pulled out in front of me tonight. Luckily we only collided at about 30Km/h. T-Boned them, Dont have any photos of the other car.
I have market value insurance, Just hoping it's not deemed a repairable write off.
I have market value insurance, Just hoping it's not deemed a repairable write off.
#2
Collo
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 12:13 AM
That sucks mate. Poor old ute.
Shame you're in VIC, I got a whole wb front end here if you needed it.
Shame you're in VIC, I got a whole wb front end here if you needed it.
#3
_ivekilledem_
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 12:26 AM
I had someone reverse into me the other day and broke the drivers side indicator. Really not having a good run ATM.
Funnily enough it was only last weekend when I had the front off of it fixing all the panel and bumper gaps.
Funnily enough it was only last weekend when I had the front off of it fixing all the panel and bumper gaps.
#4
_ivekilledem_
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 03:30 PM
I went to the towing depot today and took a couple more photos. =/
#5
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 05:20 PM
Should be a very easy fix if rails undamaged as whole front bolts off.
#6
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 06:52 PM
Personally I would pay the money for the post accident tow and get your ute out of their holding yard and get it back in your possession.
#7
_sunburst73-xu1_
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 07:23 PM
Watch out for the old saying,(things happens in threes)I had someone reverse into me the other day and broke the drivers side indicator. Really not having a good run ATM.
Funnily enough it was only last weekend when I had the front off of it fixing all the panel and bumper gaps.
I agree with Dave I would get it out of there ASAP.
#8
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 08:13 PM
No good to see mate, but easilly fixable.
Get it the frOck out of the yard!!!
Cheers.
Get it the frOck out of the yard!!!
Cheers.
#9
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 08:37 PM
And don't let the towing company bullshit you that you can't get your car back, they are only holding it as security as your insurance company will pay them the towing fee. Pay them for the towing fees already incurred and they must release your car to you.
The sooner you get the ute back in your hands the more say you will have in what ends up happening to it.
Don't forget to get your rego plates back off them too.
The sooner you get the ute back in your hands the more say you will have in what ends up happening to it.
Don't forget to get your rego plates back off them too.
#10
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 08:38 PM
The only reason it got towed is because my radiator was pierced by the fan, i was missing an indicator, and a headlight, my temp gauge (temperamentally) doesn't work because of my rusty fusebox and I was a couple of kms from home. My folks would have happily towed it but they live over 3hrs away. So the to truck company towed it to their yard, about 500m away from my home so he was able to drop my girlfriend and I off home (we were going out for tea to celebrate our 3rd anniversary). Luckily for me I work for a panel beater. My boss said he'd cop the bill for the tow and I got it towed to work on the boss!
I did take some photos of the rails, they don't seem damaged at all though.
Here is a list of parts I will need to replace or repair
left guard, bumper, nose cone, stone guard left&right, radiator, radiator support panel, bonnet, left indicator, left headlight, grill, left headlight surround, new bumperettes left & right, number plate holder, left inner guard (maybe), new horn. I think to be on the safe side I'll swap my water pump out for a new one too.. That's it as far as I could tell.
I get this funny feeling to stop it from becoming a repairable write off, I will need to do some sourcing of parts from the cheapest places I can find.
To get it out of the yard the cost was $260 base cost + $3.80 for kms travelled + $14.90 overnight storage.
I did take some photos of the rails, they don't seem damaged at all though.
Here is a list of parts I will need to replace or repair
left guard, bumper, nose cone, stone guard left&right, radiator, radiator support panel, bonnet, left indicator, left headlight, grill, left headlight surround, new bumperettes left & right, number plate holder, left inner guard (maybe), new horn. I think to be on the safe side I'll swap my water pump out for a new one too.. That's it as far as I could tell.
I get this funny feeling to stop it from becoming a repairable write off, I will need to do some sourcing of parts from the cheapest places I can find.
To get it out of the yard the cost was $260 base cost + $3.80 for kms travelled + $14.90 overnight storage.
#11
_ivekilledem_
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 08:41 PM
The plate just came off in the crash. It was sitting on the passenger seat.Don't forget to get your rego plates back off them too.
Don't worry, no matter what it's going back on the road. It has left me a bit upset to see it in this state, just because someone didn't look before driving across a two lane road.
#12
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 08:52 PM
The plate just came off in the crash. It was sitting on the passenger seat.
Don't worry, no matter what it's going back on the road. It has left me a bit upset to see it in this state, just because someone didn't look before driving across a two lane road.
Good to hear you've got it back off them. They actually sound like a decent towing company.
Looking at your pics the damage is mainly body panels etc etc. The chassis in these old cars are pretty solid, unlike the origami cars they make these days.
#13
_Quagmire_
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Posted 22 June 2012 - 08:56 PM
check your policy ...some let you buy the wreck off them
damage travels to the point of least resistance
check all your door openings and for signs of bends
on the chassis near the cab
or you could do the "plumb bob" test to check it for square
damage travels to the point of least resistance
check all your door openings and for signs of bends
on the chassis near the cab
or you could do the "plumb bob" test to check it for square
Edited by Quagmire, 22 June 2012 - 08:58 PM.
#14
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Posted 23 June 2012 - 01:04 PM
Sad to see mate. just as long as both of you are OK but I'd be VERY watchful of whiplash pain around the neck area and it may appear even days after the accident. (Have it documented if need be & see a doc)
Looks like every day in that tow yard would have cost ya.
slr_v8 has got that front that you need and would probably be worth look see for costs to buy and get to Vic.
BTW, my son Eric is looking for a Statesman/Premier front for his WB ute & if anyone has one then PM me.
His taking the standard one off.
All the best for the repairs mate.
Barry
Looks like every day in that tow yard would have cost ya.
slr_v8 has got that front that you need and would probably be worth look see for costs to buy and get to Vic.
BTW, my son Eric is looking for a Statesman/Premier front for his WB ute & if anyone has one then PM me.
His taking the standard one off.
All the best for the repairs mate.
Barry
#15
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Posted 30 June 2012 - 03:10 PM
Hey mate, I can't PM you for some reason 
But how did you go? I've got pics of the front end if you still want them. Sorry for the delay but it's been raining here.
But how did you go? I've got pics of the front end if you still want them. Sorry for the delay but it's been raining here.
#16
View GaragePosted 30 June 2012 - 04:54 PM
I think I know the answer but can you explain the logic/reason (more so the legal side of it) behind taking the car out of the holding yard. Can you explain how this all works with the insurance. And so I understand the towing company definitely cant refuse to let you take the car if you pay for the towing
I think I know the answer but can you explain the logic/reason (more so the legal side of it) behind taking the car out of the holding yard. Can you explain how this all works with the insurance. And so I understand the towing company definitely cant refuse to let you take the car if you pay for the towing
I think I know the answer but can you explain the logic/reason (more so the legal side of it) behind taking the car out of the holding yard. Can you explain how this all works with the insurance. And so I understand the towing company definitely cant refuse to let you take the car if you pay for the towing
#17
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 30 June 2012 - 05:28 PM
Things go missing and more damage occurs in a holding yard.
Personally I always have the car towed to my property.
Personally I always have the car towed to my property.
#18
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Posted 30 June 2012 - 07:20 PM
Glad your all well, thats the main thing.
sign, & my main worry was as Andy says. Took 4 days till I was able to go & pick the bike up fractures
& all then got presented with a bill of 90 bills per day for taking up room in the holding yard.
Got nailed by some dozey fart who thought his mobile call was more important than stopping at the stopThings go missing and more damage occurs in a holding yard.
sign, & my main worry was as Andy says. Took 4 days till I was able to go & pick the bike up fractures
& all then got presented with a bill of 90 bills per day for taking up room in the holding yard.
#19
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Posted 04 July 2012 - 06:55 PM
Well, not all news is good news. The car's insured value came in at $5000. The quote that they panel beater came in at $5500. The car is a repairable write off. That means it will need to get a Vehicle Identification Validation (VIV) from someone vicroads accredits, undergo another roadworthy and be re-insured. I am quite worried about the VIV, apparently they are EXTREMELY anal about everything. From what I can gather they actually measure up the car to see if it meets original factory plans. You must also provide them with a worklog of all of the work and VINs of all the cars the parts came from. I'm sure half of the cars didn't even meet these plans straight off the production line! A VIV costs $480! So it's not something you want to fail on. Anyone else had any experiences with VIVs?
#20
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Posted 04 July 2012 - 10:17 PM
Who did you get the quote from it seems a bit pricey if the rails are not damaged what sort of front did he quote you on? For that money I would be thinking caprice and dont stress about the viv as far as I know if a car is older then 20 year you don't need one and he should be fixing it to as good as new anyway and if you think he is not up to the task go elsewere. Cheers Aaron.
#21
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Posted 05 July 2012 - 02:03 PM
As it turns out, the left rail is a little bit bent. It was my boss that did the quote, Most of the cost came in on parts. There aren't really many places around (eastern suburbs of Melbourne) that stock anything WB, or even know where to get it and from what I can tell it seems you have to know people or have contacts to get WB parts. The cost of parts has increased dramatically over the last 3 years. I know because I only put the car on the road 3 years ago.
I know the quality of work that goes one there (because I work for him), and it is quite high, but from what I understand the VIV inspection is very tough, if the car had ever been in a crash before, they will pick it up etc.
I know the quality of work that goes one there (because I work for him), and it is quite high, but from what I understand the VIV inspection is very tough, if the car had ever been in a crash before, they will pick it up etc.
#22
yel327
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Posted 05 July 2012 - 03:59 PM
Talk to Greg at Classicozwreck for WB parts. I'd get a rusty radiator support and repair it, yours might be good enough to use for rust repairs.
Here is a whole ute too that will probably go cheap for the bits: http://www.ebay.com....=item4d02a8937f
Here is a whole WB front for $395 buy it now that looks pretty good. Even if the headlight reflectors are buggered you'll be able to use yours. And the support can be fixed using yours. WB guards are pretty easy to find too if these are rusty. http://www.ebay.com....=item1c28d6ae1a
I may even have a good guard here I can sell you if you need one.
Edit: Here are some statesman guards, support and stone tray. You can use a Statesman support if you get uprights from a rusty commercial one. Or use the bottom off the Statesman one to repair a rusty commercial one. http://www.ebay.com....=item3a76b2f16f
Edit again: Here is a whole HZ tonner with WB nose, had U17 dash and 308 with new WB radiator. http://www.ebay.com....=item27c8bc3ff4
Here is a whole ute too that will probably go cheap for the bits: http://www.ebay.com....=item4d02a8937f
Here is a whole WB front for $395 buy it now that looks pretty good. Even if the headlight reflectors are buggered you'll be able to use yours. And the support can be fixed using yours. WB guards are pretty easy to find too if these are rusty. http://www.ebay.com....=item1c28d6ae1a
I may even have a good guard here I can sell you if you need one.
Edit: Here are some statesman guards, support and stone tray. You can use a Statesman support if you get uprights from a rusty commercial one. Or use the bottom off the Statesman one to repair a rusty commercial one. http://www.ebay.com....=item3a76b2f16f
Edit again: Here is a whole HZ tonner with WB nose, had U17 dash and 308 with new WB radiator. http://www.ebay.com....=item27c8bc3ff4
Edited by yel327, 05 July 2012 - 04:04 PM.
#23
_Quagmire_
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Posted 05 July 2012 - 10:23 PM
i know of a wb rolling shell for under a grand...
did your panel beater quote nos prices?
so long as he gets it to 5-8mm square i doubt the viv will be a problem
did your panel beater quote nos prices?
so long as he gets it to 5-8mm square i doubt the viv will be a problem
#24
hawk
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Posted 05 July 2012 - 10:53 PM
Have you tried kingswood country on dorset road ? They should have all you need
#25
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Posted 06 July 2012 - 01:23 AM
Get on to eBay like yel327 said and buy the parts as they come up. I don't recommend wreckers as they usually want way more than the part is worth, the only reson any one buys anything from them is because they are desperate for the part. What front do you actually want for it? Cheers Aaron.
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