34 replies to this topic

[sibhs]

Hi Bruce, Try not to SHOUT, it's not good manners.

[AnthonyLHSLR]

I am currently fitting a SBC to my car.

Using Tuff Mounts and a MSD Billet Distributor I have about 10mm clearance between the edge of the distributor and join in the fire wall.

[LXCHEV]

Hi Bruce.

I had my LX engineered with SBC about 10 years ago. I did all the usual things and the engineer was very happy...

Eg:
Upgraded brakes. In my case, HQ disk/drum combo
Upgraded suspension (eg. Heavy duty V8 springs)
CRS chassis kit
CRS trans crossmember
CRS or equivalent engine mount adapters
Minimum 10mm clearance around all components (this includes extractors, exhaust, steering, dizzy etc)
Exhaust noise level test - must be under 96dB
Car must pass a driving and repetitive braking test
Car must also meet all standard roadworthy requirements
If you have things like a 9" diff, this must have been built by a reputable shop with good welding etc.

To avoid cutting your firewall lip, just use the smallest dizzy/cap setup you can find.

Keep us posted with your build-up mate.

[LXCHEV]

Couldn't agree more - trimming the rails is the best mod I ever did to mine.... makes like so much easier when stuffing around with both extractors and spark plugs - and engine fitment for that matter too. I also cut my firewall lip, and have heaps of dizzy clearance.... another highly recommended mod.

[Torryhead]

Guess I should throw my two cents in as well. I have an LH with a 383 chev (350) and it is a tight ass fight. If I was to do it again, I would bolt the engine to K frame and lower the car over it. That being said, you can drop the engine and trans in through the top. Anyway, about cutting the lip. When I first put the engine in and ran it up, my dizzy was rubbing on the lip and giving me grief. I ended up lifting the trans changing the pivot angle and moving the dizzy off the lip without needing to cut. It's close - about 2mm - but it works. I have a T700 (big trans) and it's close to the top of the tunnel but so far, so good. Also it helped with the headers hitting the steering shaft. I'm running standard engine mounts with castlemain alloy cast, chev engine mount adaptors. I think I have a little play in the mounts to the K frame to bring it all forward a few more mm. that will be my next move. Hope that helps.

[benno81]

I have a sbc in my lh cae sump and mount adapters use standard torana v8 mounts
yes I cut my firewall just because I painted car before motor went in and I didnt want to cut after painting
I am running an msd dizzy with small cap and it would hit on standard firewall but that is running this certain mounts.
as for cutting rails and this and that there is no need
I made my own 4 into 1 1 7/8 extractors they are tight but so is every set of big pipes in a torana and u just have to work out where to locate them all no you dont need to go under the front end they fit between front end and sump.
Just my bit every one has there own way of doing things.

[Torryhead]

I agree, the headers (extractors) should be custom. At least I haven't seen any worth the trouble. The headers i have are off the shelf and they fit about as good as the UPC front brakes I was promised would "bolt right up". Custom is the go. The taller engine adapter goes on the drivers (Right) side to help with steering clearance. Given the chance again to put a holden or Chev engine in my torry, I would still pick chev, they are great engines, parts are cheap and while the dollar is good, the US market is great. I was going to buy a crate engine turn key but ended up having my chev custom built to exactly what I wanted. this way i could pick a cam to suit my trans etc etc. I used a builder in Syd and would highly recommend. I want to drop my trans a little so I have purchased an MSD 8570 small cap as it give 3/8 (10mm) total clearance, so i guess 3/16 (5mm) from dizzy to lip. As for starters, I have a compact high torque starter from Autopro (in the states, I live here) for about $200. With the charcoal canister, I used a smaller canister out of a VS commodore and as said above, they are easy enough to hide or move. I removed the canister and mounting bracket in the torry because they are untidy... I hope that answers some questions.

[Statler]

The firewall lip is there for a reason.

If you fit a Chev; & you intend on trimming the lip; i suggest that you replace it. (i.e. don't leave the area open)

The reason for this ..... when it rains, the water runs down the lip section & straight over the dizzy. Water has a habit of getting into places where water shouldn't go.

[Torryhead]

Hi guys, I'm not sure who is still avidly following this thread but if you are interested, I have some pics of re drilled engine mounts and the inch of clearance I now have from the firewall lip to the dizzy. The RHS (drivers) header pipes are being slightly modified but all in all the Chev fits much better in the bay and the turbo 700 in the tunnel. Let me know if you want some pics

[Torryhead]

G'day FERGnz, I'm collecting all the pics and will post soon.