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Burtys UC To LX Conversion

Started by burty , Oct 28 2012 07:27 PM

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#26 _berro59_

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Posted 01 November 2012 - 10:54 PM

Nice work Burty. Looking good.

I am also originally a Darwin boy. How do you go with flash panel rust with the extra humidity?
The Torrie is looking great.

I have done the UC to LX conversion my too. Hard work but worth it!

Well done cant wait to see updates.

#27 burty

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Posted 02 November 2012 - 08:18 AM

My neighbour and workmate franky also has a couple of cars he is doing up and he put me onto lanolin spray that does the trick. Puts a coating on the bare metal so far no surface rust and unlike other sprays doesnt have silicones in it that absorb into the metal that might stuff up the paint work later. Also cleans off easily.
I picked up the lanolin at a bearing shop.

#28 _berro59_

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Posted 02 November 2012 - 11:13 AM

Cool.
I will look into that myself.
I put a phosphoric acid over the panel. But it is a lot dryer here.

#29 burty

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Posted 02 November 2012 - 10:00 PM

Berro,
Just been looking through you thread, much bigger job than I have to do. Realised as I got to the pages with photos of the rear end that I had looked through it before.

You can tell I used your method for the tail lights! Dirtbags was a lot more involved drilling out the spot welds and replacing the whole rear panel. I must thank you for providing the method. I went with it as seemed simpler and my UC was in very good condition so the least amount of cutting the better.

Thats the cool thing about this site, without it I either would not have attempted the conversion or tried it and made a big f****n mess!

I will take a photo of the lanolin can soon, it is also available at Landmark (the old westfarmers shops)

#30 _berro59_

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 09:45 AM

Hi Burty,

Dirtbag was the reason I had a crack at the grafts too. GMH is awesome for info like that.
Yes unpicking and removing the whole rear panel is hard work but a lot easier to get the tail lights to be symmetrical. You will also get better access to hidden rust areas.

I laughed when you wrote about being scared to get the grinder in to the car for the first cut.I was the same! It takes big balls to do it. Especially as your UC it looked decent before the graft.

Mine conversion was hard work removing the inner guards and dash but I wanted it to look like LX/A9X

keep up the good work.

Berro

#31 burty

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Posted 04 November 2012 - 01:17 PM

About to start on the interior of the Torrie. Any recommendations with sound deadening materials? Im sure there is pleanty of threads and I am about to start searching.

Just thought I could shortcut the process! Dynamat etc and the like, have also seen foil backed foam with adhesive about 10mm thick. First hand report would be good.

#32 _berro59_

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Posted 04 November 2012 - 05:44 PM

I am going with Dynamat.

#33 _sjp67m_

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Posted 04 November 2012 - 06:55 PM

About to start on the interior of the Torrie. Any recommendations with sound deadening materials? Im sure there is pleanty of threads and I am about to start searching.

Just thought I could shortcut the process! Dynamat etc and the like, have also seen foil backed foam with adhesive about 10mm thick. First hand report would be good.


Seen dynamat on a few customers cars they swear by it but I've never actually applied it
Locally cool drive are the stockists

#34 Mort

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Posted 04 November 2012 - 07:52 PM

I've had Dynamat put in Tracie's car from firewall to parcel shelf but don't have the car to drive yet so i can't comment on it at the moment.

I do know it's expensive and there is a cheaper alternative that looks the same.

#35 dirtbag

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 07:13 AM

I used the Lite dynamat in my brothers car and it makes a huge difference. Plus being the lite version it's only a few mm thick so easier to apply and doesn't interfere with how anything mounts.

#36 burty

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 05:53 PM

Going to give dynamat extreme a go. Also going to use 10mm adhesive foam with foil backing instead of carpet underlay. I will take pleanty of pics as I go.

#37 _sjp67m_

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 06:03 PM

Going to give dynamat extreme a go. Also going to use 10mm adhesive foam with foil backing instead of carpet underlay. I will take pleanty of pics as I go.


If you want give me a call 0451171575 I'll get you trade price

#38 burty

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 07:48 PM

Bugger! Got too keen and ordered what I needed off ebay. Thanks for the offer anyhow.

#39 _sjp67m_

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 09:42 PM

Bugger! Got too keen and ordered what I needed off ebay. Thanks for the offer anyhow.


Lol ok it's just I know they actually keep it Im stock surprising for Darwin !

#40 burty

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 08:13 PM

Berro, This is the Lanolin I used to protect the bare metal from our dreaded humidity

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  • Attached File  373.JPG   84.76K   7 downloads

#41 burty

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 08:15 PM

Busy weekend coming up. Dynamat extreme and 10mm adhesive foil backed sound deadening.

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#42 burty

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 08:19 PM

Lucky for me the floor was in very good condition once pulling out the old carpet and underlay. Wont be blue for much longer.

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#43 _sjp67m_

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 08:31 PM

So dynomat Aswell as the foil ?
Also are you using anything to seal after ? Ie seam sealing the edges ?
Got a seam sealer gun was thinking of laying all the sound deadner down them sealing it in ?

#44 burty

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 08:39 PM

mmm? Not sure I follow, new to this and havnt laid dynamat before. TIPS would be great.

#45 _sjp67m_

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 09:14 PM

Have to check out a few forums I'm guessing dynamat is American ?

#46 burty

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 07:56 PM

Work on the torrie stalled a bit as of late but finally got back into it over the last two weekends. Had to see what the bonnet scoop looked like while the lx bits and pieces were bolted on.

Attached File  IMG_0065.JPG   96.06K   16 downloads

Time to start some more work on the front end. You can see where the front scoop meets the flares I had to cut a small wedge out.
While the scoop was bolted on I fibreglassed the seam from behind.


Attached File  IMG_0086.JPG   65.47K   9 downloads

Attached File  IMG_0089.JPG   54.9K   9 downloads

I put about four layers on the back of the flare to keep it rigid. Once dried the flares are now fixed in the position I wanted and the front scoop lines up with them nicely.

#47 burty

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Posted 20 January 2013 - 08:10 PM

I also cut a small wedge of metal to fill the gap in the front gaurd created from getting the UC gaurd to match up with the LX nosecone.
It was a pain in the arse to weld in but we got there.


Attached File  IMG_0097.JPG   93.38K   9 downloads

Also removed the old mounts for the UC headlights, hopefully I will start on the new mounts this week ( Thanks Franky!)

Attached File  IMG_0105.JPG   89.76K   10 downloads

#48 burty

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 07:38 PM

Also got on with soundproofing the interior. Used Dynamat Extreme 9 piece pack. I thought it might go a bit further but not to be, will probably buy another pack to do the hatch area to stop a bit of noise coming from the diff!

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#49 burty

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 07:51 PM

More fibreglassing ahead! Decided to make te two piece front spoiler a one piece. I roughly fibreglassed the overlap on the top and bottom and cut out the front overlap while it was bolted to the car. Probably just created more work with out much gain but too late now the cut is done.
Once the fibreglass was set I removed the spoiler. It now fits nicely back onto the flares and nosecone.

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#50 UCgazman

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 09:17 PM

Looking good man, be interesting to hear the difference with the Dynamat.
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