Been using this forum for years now as a reference point for my build so thought it was about time I shared my project.
My first car back in the early 90's when Torana's were a dime a dozen and the average price was $2k for a decent one was a late 73 LJ S two door. Was originally blue (wedgewood), with a black interior, 173, 3 on the tree. When I brought it was repainted glacier white with LJ GTR blackouts, but no flutes, XU1 front rotors and calipers, mild 161 and a M20, and Sprintmasters dated 1975.
Was a great first car, and spent many hours on it, replacing rusty floors, changing carbs, extractors and 2 1/4 exhaust, etc. Had no money in those days so all was done on a mega tight budget. Broke a few axles and centers doing the things that 18 year olds do! Eventually went all nostalgic and the original route painted the blackouts white with pressure packs (remember no money) and put back the Torana S badging. Fitted 5.5" steelies on the front and 7" x 13s on the back, with Torana hubcaps and trim rings. Will post some pics when I scan them in.
Only recently tore down the 161 which had oversized valves, 60 over block and a lumpy cam. The head is now on my new 202. Before I tore that motor down I started it up after sitting for a good 10 years in my LC shell. Fired up as soon as the fuel hit the carby, and sang a beautiful tune straight out of the extractors. You can't keep a good red 6 down!
Have a listen, you might have to save the clip locally to view it.
http://i1189.photobu...ne/463c13dc.mp4
This was all happening in the early to mid 90's, when parts were still plentiful, and those in Victoria will fondly remember the wreckers called Pick a Part when a new Torana would arrive every week or two for raiding. That place was a gold mine, scored heaps of stuff there some of the most memorable were a GTR dash, overriders, under dash parcel tray, original push button radios, original speakers, nasco mud flaps, engine splash guards, door handle scratch plates etc. I was a bit of a genuine accessory fan back then too. Only if I had realised that Torana's would disappear from wrecking yards, would have brought five of everything.
Unfortunately that car was written off five or six years later by a 65 year old who ran a stop sign and had her license for two weeks! Ended up buying a VK 5.0 after that for towing duties. Anyway kept the LJ and pulled all the bits off it that were salvageable. The shell had a bit of rust by then and with the front end crumpled it went to Sims metals. Kept pretty much everything else. Glad I did, as you all know its getting much harder and expensive these days to restore a Torana.
Now I have a LC GTR awaiting a full rebuild. Have had it sitting the garage (like many of us having to finish house reno's first). Brought it 10 years ago off a mate as a bare shell in highfill. Came mini tubbed with a shortened 9", 8" Cragar pro stars and Mcreary G60's. Also had the front end complete, GTR sway bar, head light surrounds, a couple of GTR badges but that's about it.
Unfortunately the original engine and box is long gone. Luckily has all the tags which Bazza checked and all the numbers line up to indicate its a genuine 02/71 GTR. No engine number was listed on the VIN broadcast sheet so no chance of tracking down the original block anyway.
This car has been in storage for a good 20 years and the previous owner was planning to build it for the strip as a turbo red 6. Body was in amazing condition for its age. It was all panel beaten ready for paint. Virtually no rust at all just a little bit of surface rust under the roof, so I and my panel beater are very lucky.
When I first got the car I was keen on the tubs and the 9" and was planning on dropping in a 308 and four speed. I was also considering converting it to an LJ. Thankfully I didn't butcher it back then. The desire these days for original cars and the rarity of hearing a screaming red made me stick with a 6. 10 years ago still heard plenty of nice inline 6's getting around but not so these days. Also the new Vic Roads regs VSB14 did not help where the largest Holden V8 now allowed is a 253. Also wish now it had a standard floor pan, but would cost me more to put a standard floor in than it probably cost to get the tubs done all those years ago. In addition to the tubs the chassis and floor are under the back seat has been stepped up for more clearance. It also means that it sits incredibly low with standard height springs at the back, so will have to put in slightly higher springs for a standard ride height. See photos below with standard height springs.
Note the photo the notch in the rear of the wheel arch is being removed by the panel beater and the original radius returned. Pics were also taken when she was used as long term storage!
Currently the car is sitting in a panel shop hopefully will be painted by the end of this year. It's originally Indy Orange, as much as I like to look at Indy Orange its just not the color for me. When I think of an LC GTR I think of orange. If it was an original car with original drive train all matching numbers I would have stuck with Indy Orange, but considering its far from original I will pick a color I like. I can already hear everyone cringe but its never going to be sold, and can always be re painted, and will be kept in the family and handed down to my son. I'm going with Phantom Grey MK1. Always liked grey Torana's, most in the 80's and 90's were resprayed in gunmetal but wanted to stick with a period correct GMH color. I think Phantom Grey MK1 was released a few months after my LC was build. I like Phantom Grey MK1 on a GTR because looks understated with the GTR stripe and blackouts, rather than hey everyone look at me I'm orange. I think most will hear me coming before seeing me coming. Forum member GTR-1's LC GTR was my inspiration for the color choice, to me that car looks amazing.
In regards to the engine, always dreamt about getting a Tate built 6 since I was a young lad, reading all about Brock's 72 win as a youngster. Sat down with Mr Tate and had a chin wag about putting together a 6. Was considering sticking with a 161 or 186, being period correct and I have one of each at home. Tate was a bit concerned about the lack of availability of good 186 pistons, and recommended a blue or black 202 short motor, with my 161 head. Found a good standard bore block in a VH at pick a part, that's now been taken out to 30". It's your typical Tate special with all of his tricks set to put out about 230 or 240HP.
Was debating over the intake being XU1 Strommies, SU's or Webbers. The cost these days to get a good set of strommies is a bit out of hand, then u have to rebuild the things. Grabbed one of the 1 3/4 strommies on the early Volvo's as a cheaper alternative but Tate didn't like them. The sheer cost of Webbers, and setting them up is a bit out of hand, and Tate did not recommend them for a street engine. So we ended up deciding on the SU's.
It's going to wear a set of early 1 3/4 SU's which have been rebuilt by Wilson Carburetors on a Lynx M091 manifold. John at Wilson's is one of Ian's mates. The manifold has also been opened up and the dividers removed. Was considering a new set of SU's from Midels but Tate does not like the current Redline manifold, and I don't like the look of the bowls on the new SU's. Again wanted it to look period correct. After buying a second hand set and getting them rebuilt they came up a treat, and don't look too new
. Ended up being a couple hundred cheaper than buying new anyway.Pic below was test fitting on a dummy block before rebuilding.
Pic below is post carby rebuild. Elected not to have the pots cleaned up and polished to look more period.
Also got a blue electronic dizzy rebuilt with mechanical advance, and an ASR street series sump. I had Genie mandrel bent extractors which I brought back in the 90's for my original Torry which have been blasted and Jethot coated. Trying to use as much as I can from the old girl to keep the legacy alive.
I have a HX improved cam, which is a Clive Cam's special. Clive described it amongst other things as has having a lumpier idle which us young folk love so much! For those that don't know Clive is another contact in Ian's circle of mates and a great bloke too. Get him talking about all the XU1 cams he ground for Wade, and his memories back in the day.
Clive also machines an extra groove in the lifters for improved lubrication, and cleans up the face.
I will be running a 4 speed, and will probably stick with the Aussie. Got a couple of M20's lying around so will have to get one rebuilt, with a M21 gear set.
Bit torn with the rest of the drive line. Thinking to run LX rotors and calipers up front, which is what I put on my old Torry, and the bits are sitting in the shed. Was a good update at the time over the XU1 brakes. Down this route will throw my banjo out the back running 13" steelies all round. Seems to be a waste of those tubs though, especially considering they will be eating into a little bit of back seat space but will look more original. Also broke a few banjos with a mild 161 so will be marginal.
My other plan is to stick with the shortened 9" which has HQ drums and stud pattern, use dropped Stubtech spindles up front with P76 rotors, HQ calipers and stud pattern. Was planning to run 14 x 5 or 6" HQ stock steelies (not GTS) on the front and 14 x 8" HQ widened steelies on the back with 235's, all painted black with no caps or trims. This option will however make the M21 the REAL weak link.
Bit torn which way I will go. Thinking with the 13s might get away with less hassle at Vic roads, however if the pits team pickup the modified rear shock points, and LX front brakes will need an engineers cert for both of those. Thinking might as well go the whole hog but again 9" is overkill and will probably rob a bit of performance and balance. Any opinions or experiences would be greatly appreciated.
See pic below hmmm which way to go?
Always loved the look of the LC's or HK Monaro's running around Bathurst, or the old 60's American factory muscle cars on the strip with standard black steelies, just looks tough and old school. While modern large diameter wheels look good, and each to their own, it's just not me or the look I'm after.
My aim is for the car to look like it was built in the 70's or 80's, using as many period correct parts available at the time. The only modern concessions are the Jethot silver coating on the extractors which will hopefully fade with some use (should have done it black!). A VH electronic dizzy and blue block, if you call 1983 modern that is.
Well I could not bare to see 3.3 on the side of my block so I ground it off before Tate sent it away to Crankshaft Rebuilders. Going to make a cast of the 161 engine block badge and mould one to stick on the side of my block. That was Tate's idea when I said I was thinking of building a 161. Makes sense, don't have the original block and the dollars its costing would be criminal to sacrifice 41 cubes for the sake of a badge!
Will update this thread and post more pic as the build progresses. Sorry if the pics appear a little large for some of you. Any ideas or advice is always appreciated.
