32 replies to this topic

[N/A-PWR]

I call this a Self Dyno Tune because I got sick of getting in and out of the Tory adjusting the Timing.
So I thought if I could do the adjustment from in the Tory it would make it easier.
So what I made became History:-
- You make a profile bracket that fits the Dizzy Stem horizontally and extends 50mm further away with a vertical pivot hole for the clevis.
- drill a 6mm hole in the firewall that is levelled to the Dizzy bracket ( for the Rod to Pass through ).
- Make a lever (( 170mm long with adjustment holes ( short to long stroke )) with a pivoting point which fastens to the bottom of your Dash.
- With your Dizzy where the Engine Runs ok, measure from the Bracket ( which is parallel to the Firewall ) to the firewall and from your lever inside the cab ( Vertical ) to the firewall and add them together.
- make a Rod connection with the measurement having pivoting end connectors.
- Bingo, we can do a Self Timing Dyno.

It does not matter what you have done to the Motor ( Head, Cam etc ), this method gets the perfect Timing Position and you will Win Races. Dave I

p.s. You will run out of REV's as you try this, so slow down and get up it again and again until you feel the Tory going the best.
p.p.s. my engines, when you strobe light it after the Self Dyno Tune runs at 17 Degrees BTDC and I leave it there.
p.p.p.s. if you need a Drawing of this just yell.

[rodomo]

[LJ RB30]

I call this a Self Dyno Tune because I got sick of getting in and out of the Tory adjusting the Timing.
So I thought if I could do the adjustment from in the Tory it would make it easier.
So what I made became History:-
- You make a profile bracket that fits the Dizzy Stem horizontally and extends 50mm further away with a vertical pivot hole for the clevis.
- drill a 6mm hole in the firewall that is levelled to the Dizzy bracket ( for the Rod to Pass through ).
- Make a lever (( 170mm long with adjustment holes ( short to long stroke )) with a pivoting point which fastens to the bottom of your Dash.
- With your Dizzy where the Engine Runs ok, measure from the Bracket ( which is parallel to the Firewall ) to the firewall and from your lever inside the cab ( Vertical ) to the firewall and add them together.
- make a Rod connection with the measurement having pivoting end connectors.
- Bingo, we can do a Self Timing Dyno.

It does not matter what you have done to the Motor ( Head, Cam etc ), this method gets the perfect Timing Position and you will Win Races. Dave I

p.s. You will run out of REV's as you try this, so slow down and get up it again and again until you feel the Tory going the best.
p.p.s. my engines, when you strobe light it after the Self Dyno Tune runs at 17 Degrees BTDC and I leave it there.
p.p.p.s. if you need a Drawing of this just yell.

PICS!!!
I wanna see/be part of HISTORY!

[V-SLR5000-P]

Adjusting the timing from the drivers seat to find the "sweet spot" is not a completely revolutionary idea.
Helpfull for hand cranking your car too.



Bugatti were even thoughtful enough to stick the magneto right through the dash

Edited by V-SLR5000-P, 09 December 2012 - 11:19 AM.

[N/A-PWR]

Yes, that is right V-SLR5000-P
Just that those Day's they had no Vacuum Advance where as we are Tuning here with the vacuum advance. Dave I

p.s. here is a Vintage Motorbike with a Timing Stick:-

http://www.georgesantiquemotorcycletrader.com/mc/pictures/12165032.jpg

[rodomo]

I knew I'd seen pics of this before! No amount of googling earlier this morning could turn anything up but!

Best you check the copyrights mate?

But..............then I ponder????? Wot if..............a few extra linkages and a bell crank arrangement?
The dissy could advance and retard it's self as the motor tilts over with torque reaction?
Variable torque timing I'm calling it!

[rodomo]

VTT+FBSC Hmmmmmm???? Its' got a ring to it?

[N/A-PWR]

WOW oldjohnno and rodomo,
You two sure have great minds creating team work for better solutions.
A bit off topic here:-
I have invented an all mechanical gearbox that you don't need to change gears for acceleration. ( Variable Constant Gearbox )
I designed it for Trucks as they need something that can keep the Rig going.
So the V.C.G. could be used for lots of applications.
An example of suspension linkage as oldjohnno say's,
The suspension at the front of a Top Fueller would slow the gearbox windings as it lifted too far which would stop a Fueller Flipping over.
Nowadays we have Variable Tyres, Motors and this V.C.G. ( V.C.G. would be built different for different Power and Speed ). Dave I

[derrin71]

Used to tune a mate's centre mount ski boat by leaning back grabing the dissy and adjusting it like that.

[orangeLJ]

I came in here thinking someone would be asking about Wideband O2 sensors and data logging (which I could happily contribute to)

Instead I find GOLD! pure GOLD!

[Stinga]

when im late for work, i just adjust the timing on my watch back by an hour and bingo...

[N/A-PWR]

when im late for work, i just adjust the timing on my watch back by an hour and bingo...

and you used a remote Dial lever to do just that Stinga - why didn't I think of that before Dammit. Dave I

[N/A-PWR]

as a variable timing Lever in the Torana, you can change the distributor setting ( any type ) as you are traveling and can find the sweet spot, even for NOS. Dave I

[TerrA LX]

when im late for work, i just adjust the timing on my watch back by an hour and bingo...

Your an ideas man, I like it.
Peak hour traffic will be a think of the past.
 

as a variable timing Lever in the Torana, you can change the distributor setting ( any type ) as you are traveling and can find the sweet spot, even for NOS. Dave I

The sweet spot would be at the highest vacuum point, that can be found with a simple vacuum gauge...

Edited by TerrA LX, 28 February 2014 - 08:34 AM.

[N/A-PWR]

The sweet spot would be at the highest vacuum point, that can be found with a simple vacuum gauge...

Hi TerrA,

Even with the highest Vacuum point, the timing plays the most power, as you move the Distributor as you are accelerating, you notice the Vehicle picking up speed, or slowing down, so you leave it where it is picking up speed the most. Dave I 

 

p.s. the self dyno is in the actual event of driving

[N/A-PWR]

Far out, thought all the bits were sold in the last Torana sale,

 

found my self dyno tune cabin distributor adjusting lever I used:-

 

 IMG_7239.jpg   34.44K   1 downloads

 IMG_7236.jpg   19.1K   1 downloads

 IMG_7237.jpg   33.51K   1 downloads

 IMG_7238.jpg   47.51K   2 downloads

 IMG_7234.jpg   40.06K   0 downloads

 IMG_7235.jpg   27.29K   0 downloads

 

Only bit missing is the two piece clamp that connected to the distributor itself,

 

 which the wingnut screwed on, 2 inches away from the distributor. 

 

The silver lever hung down from the LC lower dash, on the left side of steering wheel.

 

 

p.s. the sizes are from connection/ pivot point to connection point, and lever length,

 

 plus what is shown is the final best working adjustment position.

 

p.p.s. the distributor fastening nut is loose enough to move the dizzy easily while tuning.

 

[rodomo]

Cool! What about the mixture screw tuner? Tuning the mixture screw affects the mixture over the whole range.

[N/A-PWR]

you are on to it Dammit,

 

 full cabin controls are needed, forget about computer control.