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SmacT's LX Four Door build

LX Four door 304i T5

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#1 SmacT

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 10:14 PM

G’day all,

Never too late to start a build thread, so here’s mine, four years after I actually started. Pretty slow old build, but it’s happening on spare time and spare money of which I have none, like a lot of us! I’ll summarise the build up until now over three parts, then update in real time – I look forward to the feedback and knowledge that sets this forum apart from most others.

I have a thread in the Introduction forum http://www.gmh-toran...ike-guy-reborn/ for those wanting to know where I have come from, but to summarise, this is my fourth Torana (or fifth if you include the one I owned twice) but first re-build. I discovered bikes after my third Torana back when I was 21 or so, and have since made them my job working for bike magazines, but I always had a hankering for another Torana. I reckon everyone here understands that.

Here are my first three cars back in the day (literally, my fourth car was my first non-Torana), starting with a re-shelled LJ XU-1 replica. It had all the XU-1 running gear (apart from the big tank) and interior, a set of truly rank fiberglass flares and 13-inch chromies. I was 19 at the time, that’s my defence. Then there was a LX SLR5000 replica, and a genuine LX SS hatch, which was my favourite. It had a 308 in it but was originally a six. 300hp at the treads was enough power for me at the time.

Attached File  LJ XU-1 rep 4.jpeg   75.92K   18 downloads

Attached File  slr5000 rep 2.jpeg   47.75K   18 downloads

Attached File  LX SS Hatch 2.jpeg   61.73K   16 downloads

Here’s my new car back when I bought it. It was a Persian Sand (obviously) roller I picked up from Yass, NSW from the bloke who used to own a Top Ten SLR5000 some would remember, Bollistic. I actually hunted down the Street Machine (they are in the same building as my magazine) his car featured in back in the eighties and sent it to him afterwards. I got it for $1900 just as the muscle car bubble was bursting (end of 2008) and the world was hitting recession.

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Attached File  New torrie 2.jpg   61.81K   15 downloads

Attached File  New Torrie 3.jpg   38.31K   18 downloads

Original plan was to just to rub it back as it looked so straight, paint it myself in my shed (with zero experience or idea), and fill it with an injected 304, T5 and nine-inch. Then in walked a mate, panel shop owner, Frank, who wisely slapped me over the back of the head, loudly decreed it an injustice to not do it properly, that he would help, and to strip that front guard and hand it over, asap. So I did.

Attached File  Strip Torrie.jpg   63.31K   14 downloads

Things were slow, my fault as I was in no rush, and would just strip a panel, give it to Frank who would file finish it and spray it in 2pac primer in the time his shop wasn’t busy, then swap for the next panel and a bit of cash. I was very content with this method, and I knew it was being done properly.

I ended up stripping the entire car – engine bay and all – by hand with a paint scraper (well, six of 'em) and two tins of paint stripper, which wouldn’t have been too bad, but the car was full of bog. Shitloads of it. And it takes a while to remove that by hand. I hadn’t heard of Graffiti strip discs and couldn’t afford media blasting, so my right hand has never been the same since. Some would suggest other reasons, but they’re just rude.

Then, with the birth of my third child imminent, I got the entire shell up to Frank’s shop. There I learnt to weld, make my own rust patches, etc as I was nicking up there regularly to learn more and do more. He let me use his tools and space, and I learnt heaps. Prior to that, I didn’t know what a nibbler was, or etch primer, or how to use a MIG, and while no craftsmen now, at least I have an idea and have done a lot myself. Frank and his crew have done the hard bits and really helped me out. Again, bikes are my thing, but I was getting closer to adding cars to being “my thing” too.

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Attached File  Patch.jpg   58.3K   11 downloads

It was great rust-wise, just the plenum, lower rear quarter, mild patches in the boot, behind the hinges, battery tray and a stuffed rad support. I made my own battery tray (with a bit of help!), amused the panelshop spraying myself in welding spatter welding in the new plenum patch on my back and had a ball doing something I'd never done. Very satisfying.

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Attached File  Battery Tray 2.jpg   34.5K   10 downloads

Attached File  Plenum.jpg   36.25K   11 downloads

Attached File  Plenum 3.jpg   55.02K   11 downloads

Attached File  Plenum 4.jpg   65.45K   10 downloads

I have a new lower quarter panel, which looks good, but am concentrating on the driveline for the next little while. That’s in update two, soon, along with some much prettier pics of the car as it takes shape.

#2 _j.e.d._

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 05:25 AM

Excellent progress there Sam, I'll be watching this with interest :D

#3 SmacT

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 07:03 AM

Thanks j.e.d, though I'm hoping progress will accelerate more now!

Part two

Driveline time. I bought a V8 T5, a 304i engine out of a VS SS (I accidentally hit Buy it Now and then Confirm Bid on eBay late one night in bed on my effin iPhone – my wife still thinks I did it on purpose, but I didn’t. Had to ship the bloody thing from Townsville to Sydney!!) and nine inch diff, all without much experience. And I made mistakes.

The T5 bellhousing was a custom Dellow number for a Chev with the clutch fork on the wrong side, the Nine inch was commodore stud pattern back when I thought that was the best way to go, and the engine was out of an auto, so while I got the loom, I had to buy a flywheel, still needed a manual computer, etc. Not major issues, but expensive when you thought you had all you needed in these departments. I still cleaned them all up and got them ready to fit.

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Attached File  Driveline 4.jpg   84.56K   12 downloads



Then, when I dummy fitted everything, the engine was pointing the gearbox out to sea… Yep, wrong crossmember. It was originally a four cylinder Sunbird (the engine that uses a different crossmember, with offset mounts, to the rest of the model range, the Opel engine is it? Can't remember), and the crossmember had also been tampered with to fit a 350 Chev (the car came with a ruined 010 4-bolt block in it). All rookie errors, and all fixed thanks to this forum! I ended up with a new k-frame thanks to UncleFesta, and re-bushed it and Frank painted it.

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Attached File  Engine in.jpg   47.88K   11 downloads

I did make some good buys, including a KMac/Koni suspension (including swaybars not pictured) package from a forum member and a Hoppers 290mm kit with HQ stud pattern, so it wasn’t all stupid. Not totally.

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Attached File  Koni.jpg   50.45K   11 downloads

My initial idea had been to buy a donor car, but I didn’t due to initial cost, and this is a budget build with a capital B. But when I added up all the bits I needed, then subtracted the money I could make selling the bits I no longer needed and wrecking the donor car, it all made sense again. More importantly, my wife saw my point too.

So, I sold the T5 and 9-inch, and recently bought a complete, running SV LE Commodore 5-speed V8 in crashed condition and started again. Lucky I have patience.

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Attached File  Commode 4.jpg   64.66K   10 downloads
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Which almost brings me to where I am now, which I will show in the next update!

#4 _j.e.d._

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 07:44 AM

That's excellent Sam! Very similar setup to what I'll be running in my hatch when I get a garage to work on it (been saying that for the last year now but it will happen!) except I'm using a supra box courtesy of a forum member instead of the T5.
Looking forward to more updates :D

#5 SmacT

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 10:24 AM

Thanks Jase .

So, with the new commodore sitting in the driveway (my three kids love playing in it, my wife just wants it gone asap), I brought my Torana home from Frank’s as I simply wasn’t getting up there enough and was worried it was overstaying its welcome. Here's a pictorial taste of what was done while there.

Made from scratch the battery tray
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Hinge rust sorted
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Attached File  Hinges 2.jpg   25.33K   11 downloads
About to weld in the new plenum patch - no pic of that I'm afraid. Pity, because that was a challenge to do! All the inside was covered in rust converter then KBS
Attached File  Plenum4.jpg   55.83K   13 downloads
And the stuffed rad support
Attached File  Rad Support.jpg   58.09K   12 downloads

Then got it home - my boys were almost as excited as I was

Attached File  Home.jpg   59.42K   12 downloads


At home I stripped the floor on top and underneath of years of crud (with a wirewheel this time – much better!), then hit it with metal conditioner and KBS. It was a mission with no rotisserie, but stuff it – it had to be done. A week of annoying the neighbours late at night and it was done top and bottom. I still need to touch up some areas with a paintbrush, and I have nightmares about lying on my back spraying a floor one foot from my face, but it’s over.

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Attached File  KBS.jpg   55.04K   11 downloads
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The KBS ninja
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Then I yanked the engine and box out of the commode after labeling everything and being very careful not to damage the wiring I needed, stuck it on the Torana K-frame and wheeled it in. Not before realizing the re-built/painted K-frame had had the outrigger bushes installed as per the manual, which meant the wrong way. Thanks again to the forum, I reversed them. I used the outrigger bolt and some washers as a press and squeezed them in with a bit of dishwashing liquid.

Attached File  Engine out.jpg   54.64K   9 downloads
It turns out the HSV extractors don't fit - anyone know why? I have seen them inn other Torris, but p/s fouls on K-frame in mine.
Attached File  Engine Kframe.jpg   40.92K   12 downloads
Attached File  Bushes.jpg   56.64K   11 downloads

Then I wheeled it under the car and bolted it up, after coaxing my wife into the garage in her pyjamas at the critical moment to run the engine crane. I won’t do it this way again, I find it much easier to install the engine and box into the car with the k-frame already installed. If I wasn’t doing it on my own, that view may change.

Attached File  Rolling engine in.jpg   51.67K   8 downloads
In, but not torqued up
Attached File  Engine in again.jpg   51K   9 downloads

I also used a spare tailshaft yoke to stick in the gearbox so I didn’t need to drain the auto fluid they run.

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And that’s basically where I am now. Most of the hanging panels are in primer, a full flare kit is ready to fit (I bought a Wilsons set before he retired), I have the wheels I bought from the US and shipped over thanks to GMHT member Jeff (LS1 Hatch), and am chasing a R31 diff to use up the back with the commodore’s LSD center. I will also use the VN’s brake master, booster, pedals, etc, and want to use as much as I can. Anything else I should take off it? I will sell the interior, and keep the power windows for later.

I have the wiring looms on the bench and have to sort that according to the link I found on this site, and to hassle a few forum members who have done it before and offered help. I am crap at wiring anything, and a bit scared of it, but hey, I was scared of welding in rust patches when this all began, so hopefully I will get over it!

Once the driveline is dummy fitted, I will pull it all out again for paint, and much smaller updates in the future!

#6 Mort

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 10:49 AM

Looking good Sam, my 2 younger ones were very excited when mum's car came home as well.

I have just PM'd Brad (Hanra) about my harness, he cleaned, fixed and rewrapped his so i thought i'de bug him about it, he has been very helpfully with other questions i have had, i offten visit his build thread for tips and pics.

#7 _Richie_Sebring_

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 10:55 AM

<p>can't wait to see my front end sitting there all nice and shiny like that...and Im about to start cleaning my undercarriage (not today too bloody hot) so its nice to know that others have managed without a rotisserie. and love the shot of your boys behind the wheel, pure gold. Pity you%

#8 SmacT

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 10:57 AM

G'day Mort,

cheers. Nothing groundbreaking here, but I am trying to do a good job.

yes, I have hassled Hanra before too - I love that car of his, and his attention to detail makes me re-think things sometimes, as I can get impatient at times... The harness out of the donor car is in great nick and I know it works, problem is the Torana was bought as a roller, so I don't know what's missing from its harness. There are alot of wires there, so I'll have a go this week at hooking up the efi harness to the Torrie's. Matt (LHSLR3300) from here has offered a look at his car too, which I will take him up on once the festive season is over and I am further along with this one. This forum has been a lifesaver for me!

#9 _Richie_Sebring_

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 10:58 AM

not sure what happened there sorry about that....was saying: pity there's no photos of the PJ/hoist driving scene. another great build post...love reading them cheers,
rick

#10 Neils LX

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 10:59 AM

Passengers side extractor will nead oxygen sencer moved around so does not hit kframe, dont think iv seen any bolt straight on but the drivers side will fit no probs.

#11 SmacT

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 11:02 AM

Hi Richie - just grit your teeth and do it! :D It sucks, but has to be done, and the car is much nicer to slide underneath now. I didn't go back to metal everywhere, just enough to make sure there wasn't any rust or cracks, it ended up half bare metal I reckon. Next time I do this, if ever, it will be a rotisserie job and a bigger shed though!!

Hi Neil, it wasn't the sensor hitting, it was the collector?? Anyway, I'll ebay them and source a set of efi extractors for a torrie somehow. Not keen on $600 for new castle ones, as my engine is basically stock to start, and I reckon I can better spend money on other stuff. And I'm tight. ;)

#12 Neils LX

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 02:35 PM

Why not cut and shut them like i did, mine are standared VN extractors look same as yours saves spending $600 on new ones and u can put your money in elseswhere. Cool project how are u going with floor and T5?, im running supra box but would not mind changing.

#13 SmacT

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 04:11 PM

Hi Neil - I was thinking I could do that, but if I can get good money for them on eBay I could then just buy a set that fits. But now you've said that... It would just be a matter of moving the collector and oxy sensor I Spose. What did you do? Is it in your build thread?

#14 SmacT

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 04:17 PM

On the T5, I had to cut the floor. I'll post a pic soon. We braced it, and it looks like its factory, but I am keen to get people's feedback on whether they think it is strong enough as is or not. I was also going to make a stronger gearbox x member for more side impact strength.

#15 Neils LX

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 05:19 PM

Hi Neil - I was thinking I could do that, but if I can get good money for them on eBay I could then just buy a set that fits. But now you've said that... It would just be a matter of moving the collector and oxy sensor I Spose. What did you do? Is it in your build thread?

Yeah its in there, just used the factory headers moved the passenger side so it fitted and then used twin cats with a ballencer.

#16 SmacT

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 07:24 PM

Yeah its in there, just used the factory headers moved the passenger side so it fitted and then used twin cats with a ballencer.


Alright, I will give it a go. They will do the job until I save up enough to get some decent power. I will check out your thread - again - to see what you did. Cheers.

#17 racean69

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 08:32 PM

nice project Sam...going along well.

way more progress than me unfortunately..

I often wondered about your user name, then awhile back i saw a picture of a black, hatch i think it was, taken out on one of your rides, in an issue of that once great mag and though that it was you on here.

Edited by racean69, 05 January 2013 - 08:33 PM.


#18 SmacT

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 09:07 PM

Racean69 - ha ha, that's right, that shot was taken down in Tassie. I was doing a story on riding down there, and was standing by the van when all these Toranas started rolling past. We took off after them and found a car show. On the ferry on the way home, there was a bloke with a genuine SLR5000 sitting on a trailer. His brother's apparently, but his brother had just passed, so now it's his.

And don't be fooled by the progress, that's four years worth there... :-)

#19 SmacT

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Posted 11 January 2013 - 07:34 PM

The kids have inexplicably started sleeping in until 7am, therefore I've decided midnight is a fair enough bedtime for me - so I've done a bit on the car this week. This photo sums up why wiring scares the bejeezus out of me:

Attached File  IMG_3009.jpg   71.54K   7 downloads

Funny thing is, though, that once I spread out the two looms I was left with after stripping the Commodore, and following this thread to wire it up - http://www.gmh-toran...ion#entry493314 - it's all starting to make sense. Mind you I haven't tested anything yet, but I am getting there.

I found labelling absolutely everything has helped, even what appears simple, because you just forget. The yellow electrical tape has saved me a few times this week.

Attached File  IMG_3012.jpg   40.52K   6 downloads

Using the above thread was so, so helpful, however made a little difficult because my car was bought as a roller, so I wasn't sure how original the wiring was, and what I actually had. The main engine plug I have, but not the engine side of it, which would make the wiring up even easier - does anyone have the female side of the plug complete with wires they want to sell? Unlikely I know, but worth a shot. Here's what I have - I have taped the wires in place for now.

Attached File  IMG_3014.jpg   62.39K   8 downloads

I am unsure how to wire into the yellow/pink wires with the pink/black VN wires without the plug. Any help would be great. I assume I just wire the four together, or get another plug? So green at this...

Once I have it dummy wired up, I'll go about hiding the wiring, mounting the computer and relays etc. I still need to modify the extractors to fit - I am going to cut and shut the passenger side as suggested by NeilsLX above - and stick the fuel tank back in with a fuel pump from the commodore to get it going and test everything works. Man I hope it does. That will be next week I think. And not before I have bought the biggest fire extinguisher I can afford.

I have also found out the hard way to plug the K-frame bush holes with something to prevent sockets and crap rolling around in there while you drive, in this case a pair of one of my kids socks they were foolish enough to leave in Daddy's garage. That will teach them.

Attached File  IMG_3007.jpg   48.13K   7 downloads

I'm really enjoying this stage, as it feels like the thing is coming together finally. Pretty crazy given how far away I am, but it's all about how you feel so I am going with it!

#20 _Holden89nut_

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Posted 11 January 2013 - 10:39 PM

Great progress mate, good to see you getting stuf into it !! Love how it will be manual !! Under the car came
Up a treat!!

#21 SmacT

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 11:16 AM

Thanks Holden89Nut, though I wish I'd seen the way you did your floor beforehand in your build thread - doing it on my back was pretty crappy! Your way was much better, though im not sure theres room in my shed to have done it that way. Still, done now. And well done for going back to metal on yours, a tough call but the right one!

I just set up my welder too, a cheap-ish mig that will do the job for the small panel stuff I have left. More updates soon.

#22 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 12:02 PM

Hi Sam. The factory plug is simple to wire into the VN harness. The red wire is constant 12V source to power up the factory Torana fuse box, run this to the starter via fuseable link bar. Same fuseable link is used to supply constant 12V to ECU, run both wires to fuse bar, then power source wire to starter motor. Purple is starter, run this through a four pin 30A relay. Yellow is ignition coil, run this to pin 86 on the EFI relay (gives ignition pluse on engine crank, run another wire from EFI relay pin 86 to give ignition pulse on engine crank. Brown in Alternator warning light on dash, Green is engine temp & blue is oil pressure. This is a basic guide & i hope it makes sense, PM me if you have any other questions. Cheers Matt

#23 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 12:04 PM

^^^ Sorry, run second wire from EFI pin 86 to large pink wire on Torana ignition switch plug.

#24 SmacT

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 12:13 PM

Hi Matt, thanks as usual. I still haven't forgotten your offer to come and look at your award winning cars to see how you wired them, and will, I just wanted to understand it a bit moe by getting as far as I can first. I'll try to do what you suggested, then PM you when/if it all goes to crap. I have basically taken the VN harness as is, and just stripped what I didn't need, then put everything back on as it was with the VN. I'm really enjoying this, and learning heaps. Looking forward to kicking it in the guts, though.

#25 _ausdev_

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 05:51 PM

Hi Sam,
Looks like it is all coming along for you there. I am working towards installing the 304 and tremec as well so i will keep my eye on this thread. I could do with some help in regard to which engine mount/plate, sump, gearbox crossmember combo you used for your conversion and if they fitted well or not...?
Many Thanx
Al




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