276 replies to this topic

[SmacT]

I thought so too 76 LXHatch, but taped onto the same guard they no longer follow the contour. I think I will be coaxing them back as you say - reckon I need to cut them to do that? Would heat help, or ruin the moulding? 

[76lxhatch]

If they were that shape before they should return to it again without cutting. If there is a lot of movement required or it needs to go in two different directions then start cutting - personally I've come to the conclusion that its better to modify them and be happy with it than to compromise.

[SmacT]

Have to bring your beast over for a Ganda soon mate. And bust a skid - my neighbours love that sort of thing.

(Not really)

[racean69]

Hows she going Sam?  Any updates.

[SmacT]

Sorta! Had some big changes work-wise and everythimg stopped on the Torrie for a while, but I have started work on it again as it's all sorted. Rear quarter is welded in, new rad support ready to go on next and a few bits ordered, including a efi friendly drop tank. Ill update with pics soon

Thanks for asking:-)

[SmacT]

How time flies when you're building Toranas.

 

As per my post above, I was flying along on the Torana, when my work situation changed. Or should I say moved - the magazine I worked for was shipped to Melbourne and as much as I love Melbs, I wasn't interested in moving my family with it. So I ended up with a redundancy to buy Torana bits with, found myself a new job that doesn't start til Jan 6, and all of a sudden I have time as well to spend on the Torana. I don't know myself.

 

The rear quarter has been welded in, but still isn't finished, pics later. I did buy all this stuff though, and started fittign it this week. Next week is the big week for fitting stuff at this point.

 

As mentioned, I ordered a EFI friendly drop tank thanks to Axistr's drawings - thanks mate. Here it is ready to be welded up, It will run a VT fuel pump (apparently quieter, no need for surge tank, relatively cheap, etc) A mate of mine who makes race stands, ramps, etc for bikes (Sharp Racing) is doing the job. More on that later.

 

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After saying I wasn't going to buy headers, I decided I would, and chose CAE. Plan is to drop out the subframe (again) to fit them properly and do a few other jobs while I am at it, such a fitting my poorly modified heater box as I cant fit it with the engine in. Then I can fix it. I am not overly stoked at the presentation of the CAE headers, lots of machining marks and not the tidiest welds, but I am prepared for them to hit the floor (as many others have complained of) and have an idea on how to fix that. Otherwise they seem great and offer the 13/4 primaries for when I get heavy with the engine.

 

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Handbrake cables off eBay - they fit great when you use the hooks as per standard, I made a fool of myself not knowing that in another post elsewhere, but they fit perfectly. Very Happy with that.

 

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Some rubber!  A set of 275/40ZR17 Nexen N3000s, so I can fit flares properly, cut the guards to suit, etc. I bought the rims two years ago and love 'em, though I know not everyone will. It's not for "everyone" though, it's for me. :-) They are custom  offset Centerline Laser 11s, 17x9.5 with 5-inch backspace (17x8 up front 4-inch backspace). The diff was measured and cut to fill the flares, and an engineer I spoke to said this would be fine to run 17s. Much less backspace and he suggested they may not pass.

 

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A Moroso sealed battery box. I will run a dry cell battery, but will vent it anyway in case I change my mind or get a simple cop down the track. To mount in the boot obviously. I already have the cable I need, I will just add a switch.

 

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I also bought a dipstick to suit the HQ sump, uni joints which will finish the tailshaft and a VDO oil pressure gauge sender to use in a t-piece on the VN engine and wire to the SLR gauges I have. 

 

Now to fit it all, as well as finish the rear quarter, fit the new front rad support and enjoy doing it, rather than smashing around in my shed at night trying to be quiet for the neighbours!

 

Also, the engine knock sensor is right above where the dipstick has to go, I was thinking of pissing it off altogether as it wasn't wired into the running VN donor car anyway. What do people think of that? Or relocate it to the passenger side and wire it in?

 

Hopefully another update a bit sooner...

 

[SmacT]

Yeah, and both are disappearing quickly... :-) I'll make the most of it though, though it won't be as quick a build as yours LS1Rana unfortunately.

 

Sharp Racing may make more tanks, it depends on how much of a PITA it is! And on Axistr, whose design we are using by his permission, he may want a commission fee which would be fair enough. 

 

I'll stick more details up on it later and once I know it fits and works, but it is intended to meet departure angle requirements, uses the VT pump (around $140 on ebay) instead of a lift pump, main pump, surge tank etc, and I will have a mounting pad for the fuel filter mounted on the front of the tank below where the pump fits. It will be a strap mounted tank, too.  

[axistr]

No worries Sam I don't  have any patents on the tank just, glad to help fellow Torana owners. I moved my knock sensor to the left side for the dip stick installation also. My engine is from a HSV VR and the sensor is operational. If your computer has the ability to run the knock sensor I would connect it. If you decide to up the KWs later the knock sensor will come in handy when up grading the memcal chip. The company that reprogramed my chip to remove the VATS & auto tranny also improved the KW from 185 to 195kw due to having the knock sensor circuit. He said he doesn't recommend going over 180kw with out one fitted.  

[SmacT]

Ok Len, but if Murray does a few for people we will sort something out for you.

Ok on the knock sensor too, Ill just swap sides when I have the engine out to fit the headers. Not sure why it wasnt wired up on my HSV motor, perhaps it isn't working? Will soon find out. Thanks again Lenny.

[SmacT]

Yep, found a red and white wire going to B11 on the computer, and it's snipped off. Pretty sure that is the knock sensor wire. I'll need to find another plug to suit the knock sensor and re-wire it.

[axistr]

Yep it is a red & white wire and HSV fitted them at there workshop, they were a bit rough. They only fitted bullet crimp wire connectors at the computer end at HSV. To have a HSV knock sensor circuit you must have a VR or VS engine/computer. 

[SmacT]

To have a HSV knock sensor circuit you must have a VR or VS engine/computer. 

Really? My engine is out of a VN HSV SVLE donor car, a bit of a low numbers model, but are you saying it is actually out of something later? Can I check by engine number? I thought it was just the HSV enhanced cars that had a knock sensor circuit, including my odd VN SVLE. Happy to be corrected though.

[SmacT]

Yeah, just had a look and apparently the SVLE had a knock sensor circuit. Only 110 were built so no one has ever heard of them, including me until I bought it. :-)

[76lxhatch]

Yes VN and VP HSVs had knock sensors too, remember all the V6s used them so adding one for a V8 is no big deal. Just make sure the circuit on the memcal is the V8/HSV one (number on it starts with 1F) rather than a V6 one or it will be tuned to the wrong frequency and you're wasting your time. The tune must be either an HSV one or modified to use it too.

[axistr]

Well there you go I will stand corrected, I was told that the V8 VR HSV was the first to have knock sensors & rewrite to the memcal to correct fuel table and spark curves.  

[SmacT]

Ok, thanks guys. Good info on the memcal number, I will have a look.

Any suggestions for wiring up a check engine light? What is the correct wattage lamp? I don't have the donor cars lamp unfortunately.

 

Just to confirm: I have the wiring info, just not the lamp wattage and wondering what other have done for it. I know the choke hole is a popular spot.

Edited by SmacT, 24 November 2013 - 09:41 AM.

[axistr]

I thought I might connect mine to the park brake light which will make it a multi purpose light.

[derrin71]

5 watt bulb for engine light

[Toranamat69]

LX's usually have 1 or 2 unused dash lights near where the park brake and oil pressure etc are - you just need an extra globe holder and pull the tape off the hole and wire it  up.

[SmacT]

I thought I might connect mine to the park brake light which will make it a multi purpose light.

Good idea Lenny

 

 

5 watt bulb for engine light

Bewdy Derrin, thanks. 

 

 

LX's usually have 1 or 2 unused dash lights near where the park brake and oil pressure etc are - you just need an extra globe holder and pull the tape off the hole and wire it  up.

Cool, will have a look, thanks Toranamat69. Mine's an SLR cluster, so I'll have a look.

 

 

Hi Sam,

              You are progressing very well indeed. You seem to have the enthusiasm of 10 men.....lol. I too have young kids, and finding some time to myself to play with my torana is tough to say the least.

Just a question if i may....I was under the impression that a t5 would fit without modifying the transmission tunnel of a torana...did you try a dummy fit without the cutting or have you been told that it is necessary...?

I am sure i read a post on here wher a t5 was fitted behind a 304 with no tunnel chopping necessary.

PS I also may be interested in one of your trick fuel tanks if all works well...cant wait to see some pics of it mounted.

Keep up the good work...

Ausdev

Thanks AUSDev - I do alot of work at night after the three midgets are in bed. I have all day on it tomoz though, with an empty house, so keen to see what I get done! It is hard, but worth it. I won't know what to do with myself when the bastard thing is finished. Doing a bike next, probably.

 

On the T5, I can answer you based on my research and experience with my own box combo, but others may know more. With my engine/box straight out of a Commodore, I definitely needed to cut into the floor crossbrace to fit the shifter, then brace it to make up for it. The standard commodore box is longer than the Torana 308/M21 combo.

 

However, others (such as Statler) have run a Ford extension housing on the back of their T5 box to shorten the length and bring it close to the standard shifter hole (I believe it's still 10mm back or so, but doesn't need the crossbrace cut. I only didn't because I had cut and shut my hole (man that sounds weird) before knowing of this method and I had a tailshaft ready to go at that length. I would definitely go the other way if I had my time again. That floor crossbrace has a lot to do with side impact resistance, and while my panelbeater mate reckons it's as strong as before now, I haven't shown an engineer yet.

 

Other than the shifter hole, my tunnel needed nothing to fit the Commodore-spec T5, including the cable set-up. Others have had to bang away with a lump hammer for room, but not cutting from what I can tell. Hope that all helps.