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SmacT's LX Four Door build

LX Four door 304i T5

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#151 SmacT

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Posted 07 January 2017 - 05:51 PM

Still plodding along painfully. I actually had a dream someone painted it for me while I was asleep one night - sadly not true.

 

I had been eyeing off the average-looking VN V8 Radiator I had modded to fit in there, but with alloy radiators so cheap these days and my Bommodore rad needing work anyway, I decided to replace it. I grabbed this one off eBay because it had a metal strip to attach my current AU fan set-up to easily. Quality seems good, though one of the mounting tabs needs straightening - could have happened in transit. I won't know how it works until I have the car running of course.

 

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I had only tack welded in the Bommodore rad, so cut it and the mounts back out.

 

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I also purchased an alloy rad mount kit from Kingswood Country - arrived quickly and seems good quality. 

 

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Then to my surprise, it all fitted as advertised and very simply. I did need to make a little room for the fan mounting tab by trimming the inner lips (nowhere near the chassis number), however I had to do that anyway for the AU fans, so no biggie. I just need to attach the fans now and all done. Then it's engine out time and I'll get the bay sorted. New shiny bits have got me motivated...

 

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#152 SmacT

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 08:53 PM

Still 'effin going. It's the same colour now in Epotec 408 and ready for polyester, aside from the bonnet and bonnet scoop. That will be next week, hopefully. Nine bloody years I have been going on this thing, "Green in 2017" is the aim, but "Green in 2018" still rhymes... Some time this millenium would be acceptable. Anyway, as it stands right now. There's a lot to tidy up, but it's closer than it's ever been:

 

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#153 Covert

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 09:45 PM

When that green paint hits it'll all be worth it :)

#154 _ljshawn_

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 11:06 PM

Looking good sam. All things take time.im only just starting to sort the engine i brought from you about 4 years ago

#155 SmacT

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Posted 20 June 2017 - 07:21 AM

Ha ha - thanks fellas. ljshawn, glad you are still going with it - that engine seems like a good one. Update your project! :-) 



#156 Holdenbn74

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 08:16 PM

Looking good bud 👍

#157 gtrboyy

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 08:47 PM

How does that radiator mount kit work with lower studs in commodore radiator?

 

Would have loved to find donor car like that Le these days for interior etc



#158 SmacT

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 08:13 PM

gtrboyy - I replaced the commodore adaption brackets, including two down the bottom for the lower studs and replaced with a standard Torana rad. That what you mean?  I was going to run the LE interior, but ended up ruining the interior because I left it in a damp area for too long. Whole bloody project has just taken too effin' long. Anyway.
 
I managed to block the bonnet last night, well a mate did, and there's a small dent in it, but an easy fix compared to other stuff. I'll get it done this weekend I hope, then it goes back  

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#159 gtrboyy

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 12:57 AM

Yeah L brackets that radiator studs sit in.

 

Pity about the seats they're worth good money these days...they look good & quite comfy.

 

I used to have complete scheel brock interior in my bedroom which foolishly sold cheap thinking I'd get another one down track.

 

Keep plugging away you'll get there eventually



#160 SmacT

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 06:41 PM

I sold a fair bit of the interior, gauges, etc, just not the seats. Should have because they went to waste. Bugger it.

 

Anyway, got some more priming done this weekend, so the entire car is the same colour, including bodykit, etc. I am now bolting it all on and going around doing the quality check thing, including gaps, etc. The panels are just sitting there, as are the flares, etc. One line is a shocker - done off the car so we blocked it to the wrong spot, but an easy, if annoying fix - the rest is small stuff. Then a 180 block, and then poly. I will do the engine bay first, though. Engine out next week, weld some holes, then epoxy it, too. Good to be moving it on again.

 

  

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#161 _Agent 34_

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 07:00 PM

go bro go 



#162 HIBERN8

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 08:34 PM

Looking the goods mate.. great job!

#163 koalasprint

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Posted 30 September 2019 - 12:58 PM

Update time?



#164 SmacT

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Posted 27 August 2020 - 01:52 PM

So I went and got divorced and all that shit. It meant I had nowhere to work on it, nor the motivation. I did keep the Torana through it all, though, so it currently sits with a painter hopefully I can update this thread again soon. It feels so close, yet so far away still. Great to see everyone else's cars moving along!



#165 Toranamat69

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Posted 27 August 2020 - 01:56 PM

Good upgrade. You won't be sorry :-)

#166 Bigfella237

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Posted 27 August 2020 - 02:44 PM

As Willie Nelson once said...

 

Do you know why divorces are so expensive?

 

'CAUSE THEY'RE WORTH IT!

 

It'll be awesome to see some paint go on, then the fun stuff begins. :D



#167 SmacT

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Posted 28 August 2020 - 03:08 PM

Ha ha, yep, it was a shit period, but certainly worth it.

 

Dropped in today to talk finer details with the painter and eyeball the colour. The colour hasn't changed, the scheme has. I was going L34 look with a bonnet scoop, on an LX. Incorrect, but that's my fave look, so stuff it.

 

Except the painter pointed out keeping it more LX accurate (it's not a genuine SLR, so there's only so far you can go) would be better, given the price these things are drawing. Not that I intend on selling it. So it's getting black bonnet, stencils, etc. 

 

It also means I will likely change my wheel choice. I will see what they look like on, first, as I had them made with the right backspace to suit and they fill the guards perfectly. I'll see.

 

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#168 axistr

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Posted 29 August 2020 - 08:32 AM

Looking good Sam, don't rush it or you will have nothing to do when its finished. 



#169 SmacT

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Posted 30 August 2020 - 12:11 PM

Just creeping up on it Lenny... 😬

#170 SmacT

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Posted 31 August 2020 - 12:53 PM

So with paint actually happening, I am wondering the best way to best way to put it all back together. It will come back with all panels/flare kit re-fitted. It keeps me awake at night. Ha ha. I only want to bolt stuff in once... I am thinking:

 

  • The painter is taking out the crossmember to paint it, so I will have the engine and box ready to go on the crossmember, to slide back under the car and bolt that up. That way it will get back to me with that bit done. Painter is fine with that. Thinking I will need the brake booster (modified VN V8 unit) bolted in first too. Anything else? 
  • Clutch cable, radiator/fans and all engine-related stuff - fuel lines, drop tank etc.
  • Then driveshaft, brakes and brakelines, bleed it all up. I have made most brakelines myself but need a couple made - how have people done that? Take the whole car to a brake joint (groan), or take dummied up brake lines to match? Neither seem trouble-free.
  • Battery, wiring, heat protection, headlights, tailights, dash,etc. 
  • Start it up and trouble shoot. Maybe sit on a milk crate and do a blockie.
  • Roof lining
  • Screens front and rear
  • Door glass and mechs (how the thack these go back in I can't remember)
  • Floor insulation, carpet, seats, seat belts sunvisors etc.
  • Bumpers
  • Braaaapppp. 

Whaddyareckon?



#171 Bigfella237

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Posted 31 August 2020 - 02:25 PM

Sound deadening & rustproofing before anything else.

 

I would definitely get the brake & fuel lines in first, then run all the wiring looms. Fuel tank before the diff goes in gives you more room to work too.

 

Then the pedals & brake booster, and run the handbrake & speedo (& clutch?) cables out through the firewall cause that's a prick of a job to do once the dash is in.

 

Heater box / air con / fan duct is probably next.

 

Then the running gear, interior and glass.

 

I would leave the front end panels until last for several reasons, mainly because you'll be leaning over the nice freshly painted guards / nose cone otherwise, but also you may want to adjust the final panel gaps after the car is back on it's suspension and after all the weight goes back in, and that's a lot easier with the guards off.

 

I know it's REALLY tempting but I would strongly suggest you wait till the interior goes in rather than risking it on a milk crate, a mate got bitten hard in the same situation for the sake of driving it a week earlier. Any trouble shooting that needs doing will still be there a few weeks later!



#172 axistr

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Posted 01 September 2020 - 10:01 AM

I generally start by fitting everything up on the firewall, brake booster, master cylinder and brake hoses, heater ducts, pedals, speedo cable  wiring, wiper motor, fuel hoses. its easy to stand in the engine bay and run everything you can without the engine in the way. Then I throw in the headlining, glass and door hardware to keep out all the dust and crap. Then fit up lights, blinkers, washer bottle, and anything else you can fit that won't get in the way. As said its easy to do without the driveline installed and less chance of  leaning over the guards and damaging any paint or bodywork.

 

On Torana's i find its better to fit the engine and transmission installed on the K-frame with all the accessories fitted, again everything you can fit on is a bit of a bonus as its less time leaning over the guards . I even leave the bonnet on and don't have to readjust panels or set gaps after its been painted. It doesn't matter how careful you are you end up taking paint off painted bolt heads. Doing it this way I have never damaged any paintwork, and don't need the neighbour over to help me put on the bonnet and scratching it on his side. Maybe I have been lucky but it works well for me. I throw blankets over every painted surface and just take my time and concentrate on what I'm doing.

 

With the engine mounted up on the k-frame its not hard to lower the body onto the k-frame . I have a hoist but I have also done it with jacks and stands. just take your time. This way there isn't much time leaning over the engine bay because most of the work had already been done on the floor and no chance of damaged paintwork. (My back isn't as good as it used to be)

 

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It takes bugger all time to do the few hook ups. After the driveline has been completed and all fluids installed, be fussy here and install everything once and you shouldn't need to go back and redo any work. Double check everything install instruments so you can monitor and start the engine. Install the interior and test drive. (Don't forget to put in power steering Ha Ha) only joking. 



#173 SmacT

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Posted 01 September 2020 - 02:04 PM

Thanks guys, great info. 

 

Lenny, I was thinking of the engine going in on the subframe at the painters, because I can't do it at home without taking the bonnet off - the engine hoist angle needs it off to lift the car high enough. Then I have the problems with the neighbour scratching it putting it back on, gapping it, etc. :-) I can fit a lot of stuff to the engine, but good point on standing in the empty engine bay to run all the firewall stuff. The painter is a good bloke, so he may let me drop in (he isn't far away) to do that first, then install the engine/subframe. I have done this a few times now when dummying up the car, so happy to do it. The painter may have a hoist, too. I'll confirm.

 

You both say running gear last, so I have to listen to that.

 

Bigfella, I was joking about the milk crate - pretty built up where I am, so won't be doing it. Bloody dangerous. Funny, though... :-)

 

Powersteering - still making the kits mate? I am keen. 



#174 racean69

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Posted 01 September 2020 - 04:36 PM

welcome back Sam. on would and upward mate.



#175 axistr

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Posted 01 September 2020 - 04:42 PM

Thanks guys, great info. 

 

 

Powersteering - still making the kits mate? I am keen. 

 

Yeah Sam still doing them, every twelve months when the product liability insurance bill comes in I wonder if its worth while still doing them and think about giving it all away. Then i get a few inquiries and one or two sales so I do another batch of kits and keep going for another year. I will probably end up dying at my work bench. 






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