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Bosch electronic distributor


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#1 _Big Al_

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 08:39 AM

Question: How may members are using a bosch electrtonic dizzy in there 6 cylinder LC / LJ Torana?

 

The reason I am asking is that you may not be getting 12 volts to the coil. I believe in the LC / LJ Toranas there is a resistance wire from the ignition to the coil that is only 7 volts. Reason for this is that the original engines used a points distributor. 12 volts to these distributors would have destroyed them. Changing this resistance wire to normal wire will give you the 12 volt at the coil. This can be tested with a multimeter. In turn the gap on the plugs can be increased to 1.5mm for a greater spark.

 

Does any member know if there is any truth to this and did the later model blue motors in the VH commodores have 12 volt from the ignition to the coil?

 

Cheers

 



#2 S pack

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 08:54 AM

Yeah mate all true and well known facts. This subject has been discussed many times on this forum by many members.

 

Cheers

Dave.



#3 _Big Al_

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 09:43 AM

Thanks for your feedback Dave. Looks like I will be changing that ignition wire.

 

Do I need to go directly from the switch or can I go from the fuse box?

 

Thanks

Big Al



#4 Dr Terry

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 03:19 PM

No need to run a new wire, just drop the column to gain access to the ignition switch wiring. Strip some plastic covering off both the pink & yellow wires & solder them together. Don't cut any wires, just join them together. You will now have a full 12V supply to the new ignition coil.

 

Dr Terry



#5 S pack

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 03:20 PM

Thanks for your feedback Dave. Looks like I will be changing that ignition wire.

 

Do I need to go directly from the switch or can I go from the fuse box?

 

Thanks

Big Al

Power to the coil must be switched so take it from the ignition switch wiring connector.

Some forum members have said the simplest way to do the conversion is to remove the wiring connector from the ignition switch, remove the pink resistance wire and the yellow wire (ignition 12v on crank) from the connector and solder a suitable gauge bridging wire from the pink spade to the yellow spade and then refit them back into the connector, plug it onto the ignition switch and away you go.


Edited by S pack, 06 August 2013 - 03:21 PM.


#6 Uncle Chop Chop

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Posted 06 August 2013 - 09:38 PM

Question: How may members are using a bosch electrtonic dizzy in there 6 cylinder LC / LJ Torana?

 

The reason I am asking is that you may not be getting 12 volts to the coil. I believe in the LC / LJ Toranas there is a resistance wire from the ignition to the coil that is only 7 volts.

 

Cheers

Yeah, I fixed that about 30 years ago.



#7 _LJ Kermit_

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 02:59 PM

have run an early commodore distributor in a red six...

with high voltage coil...  can get a picture if needed....

 

it was a straight drop in replacement.... just set the timing and drive...

worked perfectly...

 

I used it for a lot of road running  approx. 120KPH Melbourne -Adelaide

used to tune the car every week or so... until then...

 

as far as I know the 12 volts at the coil is to produce a better spark during starting...

not needed during the warmed up running phase unless you are into performance motors...

 

 

 

LJ Kermit...



#8 S pack

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 07:03 PM

Yes the HEI dizzy and coil will work with only 7 volts but your not getting the full potential out of it. Any engine (std or modified) will benefit from the better spark produced by the HEI ignition system if it is fed 12v


Edited by S pack, 07 August 2013 - 07:04 PM.


#9 _LJ Kermit_

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 07:46 PM

thanks, S Pack...

 

never noticed the difference...

between conventional and electronic distributor...

 

it had a standard 202 with single barrel stromberg - bog standard...

 

and ran real well, never had to hesitate passing semis on the open road...

 

will give it a go when the torana breathes fire again....

 

hopefully soon...

 

LJ Kermit



#10 _73LJWhiteSL_

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 01:28 PM

No need to run a new wire, just drop the column to gain access to the ignition switch wiring. Strip some plastic covering off both the pink & yellow wires & solder them together. Don't cut any wires, just join them together. You will now have a full 12V supply to the new ignition coil.

 

Dr Terry

 

Did the exact same thing with my LJ SL when I stuck the Electronic dizzy in. Dead easy to go back to the Points dizzy too by separating the wires.

 

Steve



#11 _Yella-5000_

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 01:41 PM

No need to run a new wire, just drop the column to gain access to the ignition switch wiring. Strip some plastic covering off both the pink & yellow wires & solder them together. Don't cut any wires, just join them together. You will now have a full 12V supply to the new ignition coil.

 

Dr Terry

 

Yup, that's what the Autoelec did to mine, took all of about $80 and five minutes.  Electricity will take the path of least resistance.  Worked a treat, haven't looked back since, although my Bosch is driving a 308, but same difference.

 

Only other enhancement was running an electric heated auto-choke off the 12v from the coil to the carby.  Another good improvement.  Electric fitting looks exactly same as the old engine heat/vacuum driven unit.


Edited by Yella-5000, 09 August 2013 - 01:43 PM.


#12 Dave6179

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 08:13 AM

All I did (on my HJ) was remove the pink wire completely, as it was starting to melt... although when it started I have no idea. I have measured 12v at the HEC716 coil, have no probs starting on cold mornings, and the 202 is as economical as the 179 I took out, which had a Mallory on it for 21 years.



#13 TerrA LX

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 08:57 AM

No need to run a new wire, just drop the column to gain access to the ignition switch wiring. Strip some plastic covering off both the pink & yellow wires & solder them together. Don't cut any wires, just join them together. You will now have a full 12V supply to the new ignition coil.

 

Dr Terry

 

 

Is it better then to trigger a relay with this wire to take the load off the old ignition switch?



#14 _LHSL308_

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 09:54 AM

I am running a bosch dizzy with a 308 and am yet to do this mod on my LH. Is it as simple as soldering the pink and yellow wire together that runs from the ignition switch? I haven't heard of this way before.



#15 TerrA LX

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 10:54 AM

So long as the wires are bridged to show 12v between the yellow and pink wire it does not matter how you join them, but yes, that simple.


Edited by TerrA LX, 13 August 2013 - 10:55 AM.


#16 _LHSL308_

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 11:07 AM

Do you even need to drop the steering column or are these wires accessible anywhere near the bottom of the column?



#17 S pack

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Posted 13 August 2013 - 01:53 PM

Bridge the wires at the ignition switch. To get full 12 volt at the coil you don't want to be feeding power from halfway along the resistance wire into the yellow wire. Also the pink resistance wire isn't a normal copper wire and it's near impossible to solder.



#18 _glennhailstone_

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 07:29 AM

Thanks very helpful 



#19 _Muzzy_

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Posted 22 July 2014 - 07:52 PM

I had the same problem HEI distributor with HEI coil , I bridged the wire at the plug next to the booster, I then used the wires to create a signal to a relay, this way the current load is reduced thru the old wiring system, this in turn lifted the supply voltage to well enough to power the relay, end result engine starts faster.

Edited by Muzzy, 22 July 2014 - 07:54 PM.


#20 _LHSL308_

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 03:07 PM

Been doing some research on the 12V to the ignition switch today. Can someone verify for me the best way to get access to the ignition switch? Can I drop the column and get access that way, or is it easier to just remove the steering wheel, then remove the switch by depressing the clip through the slot?

 

A good way to bridge the 2 wires together would be very helpful too?

 

Cheers


Edited by LHSL308, 26 July 2014 - 03:17 PM.


#21 _J.A.W._

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 04:12 PM

Have to remark, all these issues seem typical of GM's cheap-arsed approach to electrics stuff,

I ran a (daily driven for 40 years) `73 265 Hemi which came factory equipped with a Bosch electronic dizzy,

& in all those miles it was only the mechanical stuff that eventually crapped out, bearings/gear/advance springs..

 

They use a ballast resistor for 6/12 volt impulse control & a start relay so power does not get leeched off for the starter motor,

Mine still had the original carbon HT leads which still tested perfectly on the analyser..

 

I am frankly amazed that Bosch Australia was unable to get Holden to run this type of stuff in the same era..



#22 _hutch_

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 07:55 PM

I think that ignition system was actually a MOPAR system built for Chrysler by Bosch, I remember them as an apprentice coming out new,was bloody marvellous "new idea"

#23 _Muzzy_

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 10:04 PM

Been doing some research on the 12V to the ignition switch today. Can someone verify for me the best way to get access to the ignition switch? Can I drop the column and get access that way, or is it easier to just remove the steering wheel, then remove the switch by depressing the clip through the slot?
 
A good way to bridge the 2 wires together would be very helpful too?
 
Cheers

Please read the post above yours, you can bridge the wires at the plug near the booster

#24 _LHSL308_

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 11:47 PM

Please read the post above yours, you can bridge the wires at the plug near the booster

Thanks Muzzy. Is it still the same coloured wires that need to be bridged? I havent heard of doing it this way before, all I am after is 12 volts at the coil. Certainly dont want to stuff anything up as the engine runs perfectly but I think it would benefit from a bit extra spark.



#25 _outer control_

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Posted 27 July 2014 - 05:25 AM

Just be aware that tacho will not work unless modified and that costs about $200






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