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brake upgrade options

Started by _darkside_ , Aug 24 2013 12:03 PM

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39 replies to this topic

#1 _darkside_

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 12:03 PM

hi , I am trying to work out what options there are for putting better brakes on the lh/lx without going to hoppers etc,is there any gmh product that can be made to fit?cheers ....doc

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#2 rodomo

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 12:13 PM

http://www.gmh-toran...-brake-upgrade/

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#3 yel327

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 12:19 PM

Yes. HT-WB stubs with caliper at front, HQ-WB discs. The caliper that fits without mods is the UC PBR alloy body caliper, turf the cast iron pad carrier with TORANA on it and get one off a HX-HZ with the same caliper type with HOLDEN written on it. Use the UC's recessed allen headed bolt & slide at the bottom to clear the tie rod (HX-HZ bottom caliper bolt fouls the Toran tie rod) , and either buy some Harrop A9X steering arms or try UC ones and if it bump steer is too much get the Harrop ones. Some people don't like these calipers but if they are maintained they are fine.

Rears, up to you. You could buy the HQ-WB front discs from Hoppers with the centre spigot machined down and with HK-HG pattern studs on it, then simply bolt on HK-HG rear drums onto the back so you have effectively HQ brakes with Torana stud pattern BUT, HK-HG drums are hard to get, you could buy HQ-WB ones and drill the drums (same drums).

Another option is to get some 1-tonner axles and get them cut and splined to suit a 23 spline banjo, then simply bolt HQ-WB drums on the back. Some people simply get Torana axles redrilled to HQ patttern but the studs do go close to the outer edge, although this is what GMH did with HZ-WB disc brake rear axles, the flanges on these are close to Torana diameter with HQ pattern on them, check them out and make your own choices with input from the machine shop doing it for you. You can leave the Torana rear drums if you like with the Torana axles redrilled, will just need the drums re-drilled, although HQ-WB drums bolt straight on using Torana handbrake cables.

If you go to Holden brakes all around just use a Holden disc/drum master cylinder off a HQ-HX etc.

There are plenty of other options too.

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#4 Toranamat69

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 12:40 PM

You do still have to notch the top control arms if using HQ stubs with the modified UC PBR alloy calipers

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#5 _darkside_

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 12:54 PM

the diff is a ford 9" but has been drilled to take gmh stud pattern and brakes.i will do thje front first and see if that improves anything, guess its back to trolling through rusty crap at swaps :banghead: .....doc

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#6 _darkside_

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 01:33 PM

crap,i knew I posted this somewhere.thanks bloke,old age is not wot its cracked up to be... :nopity: doc

http://www.gmh-toran...-brake-upgrade/

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#7 yel327

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 03:33 PM

You do still have to notch the top control arms if using HQ stubs with the modified UC PBR alloy calipers

I didn't but I did have UC upper arms.

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#8 Toranamat69

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 06:29 PM

I havn't actually tried that combo with the UC upper arms so that is good to know - did you double check with the suspension at full compression and at full lock?

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#9 _darkside_

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 06:36 PM

Yes. HT-WB stubs with caliper at front, HQ-WB discs. The caliper that fits without mods is the UC PBR alloy body caliper, turf the cast iron pad carrier with TORANA on it and get one off a HX-HZ with the same caliper type with HOLDEN written on it. Use the UC's recessed allen headed bolt & slide at the bottom to clear the tie rod (HX-HZ bottom caliper bolt fouls the Toran tie rod) , and either buy some Harrop A9X steering arms or try UC ones and if it bump steer is too much get the Harrop ones. Some people don't like these calipers but if they are maintained they are fine.

Rears, up to you. You could buy the HQ-WB front discs from Hoppers with the centre spigot machined down and with HK-HG pattern studs on it, then simply bolt on HK-HG rear drums onto the back so you have effectively HQ brakes with Torana stud pattern BUT, HK-HG drums are hard to get, you could buy HQ-WB ones and drill the drums (same drums).

Another option is to get some 1-tonner axles and get them cut and splined to suit a 23 spline banjo, then simply bolt HQ-WB drums on the back. Some people simply get Torana axles redrilled to HQ patttern but the studs do go close to the outer edge, although this is what GMH did with HZ-WB disc brake rear axles, the flanges on these are close to Torana diameter with HQ pattern on them, check them out and make your own choices with input from the machine shop doing it for you. You can leave the Torana rear drums if you like with the Torana axles redrilled, will just need the drums re-drilled, although HQ-WB drums bolt straight on using Torana handbrake cables.

If you go to Holden brakes all around just use a Holden disc/drum master cylinder off a HQ-HX etc.

There are plenty of other options too.

after reading this i went to where more info was complete with pics and the bit i am confused with is here it says to use uc pbr calliper,in the other post it says that this calliper although good isnt adjustable to fit ventilated hq type discs,sorry guys prolly staring at me but not getting it ,...doc

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#10 Toranamat69

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 07:07 PM

Read the first line again, Yel327 says to remove the cast iron slide from the UC caliper theat says Torana and replace with the HX-HZ one that says Holden - this makes it fit the thicker ventilated disc.

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#11 _darkside_

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 11:26 PM

ok ,yeah i remember that bit,just wasnt sure that by changing the torana to holden slider that it made it fit ventilated discs from solid type ,very kool cheers guys very helpful,and all this will fit on to the wb spindle ...doc

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#12 _darkside_

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Posted 25 August 2013 - 12:14 AM

and the other thing just to make sure i got this right is i cant use the better cast iron callipers from hq cause they will fowl on the suspension somewhere ....doc

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#13 yel327

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Posted 25 August 2013 - 08:57 AM

You can use them, just the brake hose comes out the bottom and can cause problems. These were used on the L34 but GMH plugged the lower hose entry hole and redrilled it in the top.

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#14 _darkside_

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Posted 25 August 2013 - 09:41 PM

kool so i need to find the uc type and get sliders from hx/z.bolt it all ont wb stubs and hopefully fix this problem,i am getting grab marks in my seat every time i have to hit the brakes :3gears: .....doc

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#15 Toranamat69

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Posted 25 August 2013 - 11:34 PM

I have a couple of sets of those UC alloy PBRs to suit rebuild if you can't find them anywhere - they are pretty easy to find though. Can't help with the HX/HZ slider bits though

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#16 _LHSL308_

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Posted 25 August 2013 - 11:52 PM

It should look like something like this mate. These are LX calipers as far as I am aware with HX slides.

Edited by Gonedeaf, 25 August 2013 - 11:56 PM.

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#17 yel327

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 08:52 AM

You want the whole UC caliper with UC slides as the UC has the bottom one with a recessed allen head bolt to clear the tie rod. The HX-Z bit you want is the pad carrier (cast iron bit). The slides (or whatever the correct term is) are the barrels that the body mounts on and allows the caliper body to slide on. Be careful of the bodies of these calipers as they often corrode inside. Rebuilding is easy as long as the body and piston are OK.

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#18 rexy

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 09:13 AM

The picture above does indeed show LX calipers with HX slides. Original LX mounting bolt/hex bolt combo. Nothing hits anything. Why would it?, everything bar the HX pad carrier is orig LX.

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#19 Toranamat69

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 09:46 AM

Because the HQ stub mounts the caliper higher.

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#20 _LHSL308_

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 03:52 PM

These were bought by me recently for a brake upgrade however I wont be changing any stubs. I have bought new HQ discs and got them machined down. These calipers will bolt straight on and should need no modification (grinding) for the easiest of easy brake upgrades.

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#21 TerrA LX

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 07:58 PM

^ agree, they do not need the hq-hz stub.

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#22 _darkside_

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Posted 28 August 2013 - 01:38 PM

well I spent some hours with a bloke that lives breathes holdens for last 40 years has his own wrecking yard lol. I showed him the info from yel327 ,seems to think there might have been some confusion with the way it was written as uc callipers don't have a slider that can be grafted from another calliper,so some pics and you can tell me where it went wrong.the calliper that he does do mods with is the same as the pic from gonedeaf 5 posts back ..well it turns out this forum wont put up pics from photobucket ....bummer,,doc

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#23 Toranamat69

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Posted 28 August 2013 - 01:57 PM

The ones in Gonedeafs post are LX/ early UC calipers. Late UC were different. So Mr live and breathe holdens for 40 years has still a thing or 2 to learn. I can show you pics of original LX RTS and UC front ends with those calipers as they are in my shed. The UC ones are still on the UC hatchback.