mikes 304 LH
#26 _UFO304_
Posted 13 February 2014 - 12:17 PM
#27
Posted 13 February 2014 - 01:46 PM
Yeah those rims should fit, just depends on the width of your diff. I have 8in rims with 4.5 bs and they are close to the outer guard with about a good 1.5inch spare on the inside with a 235 tyre. I would think the guards would have to be rolled though. I hope you got those rims spun up because they buckle easily being alloy.
Not sure if you got your ball joints yet but the moog ones are the best and very cheap from the U.S. Let us know if you need them and someone will point you in the right direction.
Look forward to your build.
fingers crossed, if rolling the guards is all I have to do ill be doing handstands!
thanks, got all my ball joints from kc spares. all bushes apart from the upper and lower arms are poly.
yea ive never been a big fan of the flares. prefer the pro street look, not that that will be happening yet
#28
Posted 25 April 2014 - 01:23 PM
got the lhs firewall finished up. Not a lot else has been going on over the last couple of months. my buddy who runs his own shop called tin tricks cleared some space for me and we trailered her in. hes going to be fixing up the front and doing a bunch of other stuff for me.cant wait! found some more rust on the other side of the plenum so all the wiring is out.will also give the floor a paint to give it some more life.
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#29
Posted 01 June 2014 - 07:08 PM
So it turns out the plenum is a tiny bit sick....
#30 _berro59_
Posted 04 September 2014 - 03:00 PM
#31
Posted 04 September 2014 - 03:31 PM
Wow yes Mike & Berro,
especially how neat all the un-picking of the spot welds is.
So it turns out the plenum is a tiny bit sick....
#33
Posted 21 January 2015 - 08:21 PM
#34
Posted 22 January 2015 - 04:09 PM
i do look at it and wonder if having a crappy fan was worth it
#35
Posted 29 January 2015 - 09:41 AM
#36
Posted 30 January 2015 - 11:13 AM
Wow that is one neat plenum, maybe matt can make another and get it to Rares so they can make replacements for us, unless Matt wants to do them himself, pretty sure he would have a bit of business for them.
#37
Posted 02 February 2015 - 07:12 PM
ill pass that on im not sure how soon he will want to do another, may need to wait a month or too haha
#38
Posted 13 July 2015 - 05:45 PM
been chipping away at this, got it home a couple months back. plenum and engine bay have been finished. have since stripped the floor and sills back and undersealed. think ill have them colour matched eventually. will have more build photos of the plenum once I get them off matt.
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#39
Posted 13 July 2015 - 07:43 PM
Nice work Mike, coming along well.
#40
Posted 14 July 2015 - 02:27 AM
engine bay looks great
#41 _jakeslxss_
Posted 14 July 2015 - 03:05 AM
wow, love the work thats been put into the plenum. looks like your LH is in some prety good hands... ill be sure to keep a keen eye on this thread.
#42
Posted 15 July 2015 - 06:09 PM
cheers guys, it was in good hands.... now I have it back
#43
Posted 21 September 2015 - 06:20 PM
looks like my impulse buy at a swapmeet has backfired with the wheels. i like the look though!
got the k frame bolted up and dropped the engine in. the carpet in the garage came in handy. slid straight in.
next on the list is to source some more engine parts and look into the wiring. also get the gearbox in and make up a crossmember.
anybody know how much clearance I should have off the heater box? engine is resting on it at the moment. im guessing once the gearbox is in it will tilt forward?
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#44
Posted 21 September 2015 - 07:30 PM
Looks great. Hope you have the dizzi in and cap on. It is a bugger to get to if you haven't. I would suggest havingg the leads on too.
#45
Posted 21 September 2015 - 08:08 PM
Looks like those wheels have flare-spec offsets - fitting flares then? :-). Yes, the engine will likely tilt forward with the gearbox and cross member in, how much depends on what you buy, of course. Having said that, most of us doing this mod have cut back the heater box to allow more clearance (look here for how to do it) and, if you haven't already, you will need a VN-spec or custom fuel rail barb so you can connect the fuel inlet without fouling the heater box, as well (it exits parallel rather than at 90-degrees to the firewall).
And as Redslur says above, fit dizzy cap and leads (incl. coil) before fitting and hope like hell your timing is right - a few spanners get thrown around if you need to adjust it. :-)
#46
Posted 21 September 2015 - 08:09 PM
thanks, have the dizzy on, leads are on the to buy list. any recommendations?
no flares for me, cheaper to buy new wheels:)
its a vn motor. the fuel rail (inlet? barb) was resting on the heater box. went to loosen it and spin it around. engine dropped back, bloody finger got caught and now I don't have a finger print!
fingers crossed about the timing! the joys of learning as you go!
Edited by LH mike, 21 September 2015 - 08:16 PM.
#47
Posted 21 September 2015 - 08:15 PM
Loosen the 4 K frame bolts and lower the front end slightly. It gives you a bit more room to get to the cap and leads. And fingers crossed as Smac T says, hope your timing is spot on :-)/ As for leads, any good quality leads will suffice.
#48
Posted 22 September 2015 - 08:35 AM
Yes, inlet. I did as you did and spun it around to clear. I didn't get my finger caught, but I have been stuck under the car for 8 long, long minutes with my arms above my head before, so, you know...
Some people cut the rear drip rail for clearance. Or change inlet manifolds (the bananas). Or put a Chev in it.
#49
Posted 16 November 2015 - 04:39 PM
so ive pulled the diff out and put the 9 inch housing in to see if it mounts up ok. from what I can see its about 20mm out to one side. can anybody tell from where the top arms are mounted that they are in the wrong place?
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#50
Posted 16 November 2015 - 05:14 PM
It looks to me like they've centred the pinion position by moving the housing to the passenger's side (photo left), the pinion in a 9" centre is offset 0.970"
If the pinion is centred then your left axle should be 4" shorter than you right axle?
Only problem is, I'm pretty sure the tunnel in a Torana isn't in the middle of the floorpan, it's also offset to the driver's side, so you might have some clearance issues depending on the size of you tail shaft?
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