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Under body and wheel wells

Started by _Evil_Homer_ , Sep 26 2013 06:30 PM

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17 replies to this topic

#1 _Evil_Homer_

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 06:30 PM

looking for some advice when it comes to sealing under the car and wheel wells

i have had a good look around this forum and googled to my heart is content and cant really come up with a total solution.

basically what i have done is stripped under the body and wheel wells back to steel and used a single pack etch primer

just to prevent any surface rust, this way i can quickly wash of the primer when ready to finish the underbody.

what i would like to know is could someone give me information on the correct application to sealing the underbody.

i see that some people just prime and paint, some coat the body first with sealants then prime and paint.

do i etch prime first, or seam sealant first,

underbody spray directly on to steel or primer,

seam sealant onto primer or over the top of paint???

totally confused and not sure of the steps that work best.

would love a step by step directions or a link to somewhere that explains the procedure.

thanks in advance from the underbody dummy

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#2 71xu1

Dave

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 06:37 PM

The last one I did was two pack epg etch I then gave the etch a light scour then Por 15, then seam sealed, then paintable gravel stop, then finished of with two coats of por 15 chassis cote.

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#3 sibhs

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 06:59 PM

My thoughts are: bare metal then spray epotec 2k primer surfacer. Then seam seal, I've then used anti gravel sprayed in wheel wells. Finally spray 2k semi gloss black over the entire underside. I am an amature but have done a bit of research. Marty

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#4 _Evil_Homer_

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 08:20 PM

can POR 15 be painted over etch primer?

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#5 71xu1

Dave

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 12:01 AM

Yep as long as it has something to key into that's what I use the scourer for. Generally it is best to use an etch over bare metal not primer surfacer. Etch primer is designed to etch into the bare metal.

Cheers Dave

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#6 _sjp67m_

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 08:07 PM

I was told if the por isnt painted on bare metal it wont have the effect it is intended to... ie it wont prevent rust as it is desined to go on clean treated metal to work properly

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#7 71xu1

Dave

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 08:46 PM

Yes your right but I don't think you can beat two pack etch, I use the poor 15 as a membrane and could probably leave the primer por 15 out but I like the way it creeps into all the seams. Basically the method I use and works well for me.

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#8 _Lazarus_

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 08:47 PM

I'm doing mine old school.

Rust convertor where necessary, clean off excess when dry with warm water. Then airosol fishoil along the seams for penetration, cover and leave for a couple of days. Then Killrust red oxide by brush on the seams, followed by seam sealer. Everything is then covered with rust inhibiting etch primer and then two or three coats of brush on sound deadener.

But mine is just a low budget UC 4 door daily driver.

.

Edited by GTR - U9X, 27 September 2013 - 08:49 PM.

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#9 _Lazarus_

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 09:12 AM

On second thought I think I'll do the seam sealer last.

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#10 _mikecatts_

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 07:30 PM

http://www.gmh-toran...-rebuild/page-9

I sandblasted. POR 15 to bare metal, seam sealed using a "quality sealer" then used their brand "tie coat" on top as per instructions.. Now I can paint it with any paint and any time..

I personaly dont think the POR 15 sticks to painted surfaces too good.. It wont come off properly prepared bare metal..

My opinion..

Mike

Edited by mikecatts, 28 September 2013 - 07:31 PM.

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#11 _Viper_

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 07:39 PM

POR-15 should only be used on bare metal surfaces... The surface also needs to be rough, it will not stick to smooth steel... Sandblasted surface is ideal.

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#12 sibhs

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Posted 28 September 2013 - 07:50 PM

My advice for POR 15/KBS is apply to bare metal only and use two coats. Only use in areas where you don't want a great finish. I want my underbody pretty shmick so I have KBS the welded areas and common rust spots then primed before KBS goes off. Then 2K over that. These products flow so well into seams and weld holes where as paint doesn't.

I'm not happy with the look of POR15/KBS as a finished product, it is however a tough as nails coating but unless sprayed on it is difficult to apply to something like a KFrame without developing runs. These runs look ugly and can cause bubbles because of their thickness.

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#13 BIG KEV

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 09:53 AM

Can you spray these products eg: POR 15 and is it a good finish for under the car ......looking for the shinny gloss look ...

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#14 71xu1

Dave

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 10:33 AM

Hi Kevin yes you can spray these products. But if you want a shiny gloss look I'd go for two pak. The poor 15 chassis cote is for the original look and is more of a satin look.

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#15 _sjp67m_

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 12:33 PM

Ive stripped the underside marine clean and metal ready
Then spray with por15 then tie coat then lizard skin came up a treat

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#16 _Evil_Homer_

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 05:21 PM

doesn't any one use the old chook shit anymore?

Edited by Evil_Homer, 29 September 2013 - 05:22 PM.

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#17 _likatiger_

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 06:21 PM

I will be doing mine soon and will be putting stone guard over the etch, then while still wet/flashing off will be spraying with satin black over the top