here it is with the 6f,
you cannot see the graph and i may change the screen shot to include the whole range. but
i have tried to turn this into a photo so i can show in the screen but it's just not happening. you can see by the needle diameter in size where different needles give more or less fuel as they go along the shank.
At least it will give you a base setting for the needle as you originally asked for.
further note, if you look at the taper dimensions of the 6f , it's a lot fatter in diameter which means leaner at WOT. for a hotty 6j is the one you want as it's taper is down to 514. if you compare this to the 6d.
so @ wot
6e- 612
6d- 593
6h- 572
6f- 544
6j- 514
At the end of the day, it's where you need the fuel as apposed to where you don't.
I hope that this has given you some idea where to go with these carbies. having said this spring rate eg , the spring you are running will effect the rise of the needle as well. SO don't do 2 (two ) things at once ie change the spring rate and the needle.
buy a softer set of springs first, but when you do , buy a new set of diaphragms (3) it will cost you not much ( faber at lakember) and change the springs, just changing the springs will give you some advantage in the needle rise VS vacuum , which inturn will seem like the needle is thinner EG at a earlier throttle response Vs rise of slide - eg simple terms MORE FUEL EARLIER as the slide rises faster, thus the needle is at a thinner part of the shank. will not help WOT though this trick
i'd go the spring change its cheaper than needles. but have a look to see where you are chasing the power and then select the needles to go in the right direction.
I'm going to have a lie down now, I'm exhausted
G
Edited by Agent 34, 22 November 2013 - 05:42 PM.