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HM9C Headers for LC DO NOT FIT

Started by _cliffos_ , Jan 07 2014 03:29 PM

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27 replies to this topic

#1 _cliffos_

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 03:29 PM

Just booked the LC in to get the exhaust made & supplied them with HM 9C headers ,Got a phone call half an hour later ,Mate your headers are not for a torana ,they are way off.... I knew that maybe the engine mount needed to be clipped & a dent needs to be put in the floor (which I think is retarded) If you fabricate stuff for something specific ,it should fit ..no question...but old mate recons ,even with the mount removed ,it wouldn't fit ..

any one else had this drama ????

What a waste of money

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#2 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 03:49 PM

hi Cliff,id take them back to who done them ,get your money back,put the words on him mate,

cheers Maz

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#3 _cliffos_

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 04:16 PM

A bit hard to get my money back now as the flange has been machined to fit a redline manifold (another modification necessary to make them work) and they claim they are designed to compliment triple carbs ,puhhhh

But I will call HM tomorrow and see what they say .... should be interesting

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#4 Stinga

.

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 04:17 PM

:google:

http://www.gmh-toran...m-headers-hm9c/

http://www.gmh-toran...f-hm9c-headers/

Red motor full interference header (TRI-Y) designed to compliment multi carburetor engines. This header has large diameters and requires some extra clearances. This design delivers good low to midrange torque. Note: Engine mount requires trimming and floor pan requires indentation to fit these headers.

Edited by Stinga, 07 January 2014 - 04:24 PM.

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#5 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 04:36 PM

I wouldn't trust an exhaust shop to fit them. Too hard basket for blokes who generally won't care.

Bring your car home, fit them up (modify as necessary), then get the exhaust shop to make a system to suit.

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#6 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 05:05 PM

Uhu ^

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#7 jd lj

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 05:18 PM

Yes they are a prick to fit. When I went to put mine on they hit the engine mount, the floor pan and my high volume sump, ahhh. There was no point turning back, so we trimmed the mount, knocked in the edge of the sump and the floor. It's a stupid design if this is needed, surely they could modify them to fit better, maybe something like the 73 Bathurst Xu1 extractors, I'm sure they should fit better. My car must have gone up and down on the hoist about 20 times that day knocking the floor pan in more each time. The part that needs to be hit in is right on a corner which happens to be probably the strongest part of the floor. Finally it looked ok so the rest was welded up and the carbs bolted on, only to find that when the engine revved the movement of the engine made the extractors still knock on the floor. So back up the hoist and started belting it again. It got there eventually, however it wasn't running right because now my carbs were out of sync from being taken off. Once I balanced the carbs it was all good from then on. They work well but are a annoying fit. :-((

JD

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#8 warrenm

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 06:00 PM

Maybe they should have made them like mine, no floor or engine mount mods required.

Headers (600 x 436).jpg 55.32K 29 downloads

Edited by warrenm, 07 January 2014 - 06:01 PM.

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#9 S pack

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 06:06 PM

^^^ Spaghetti junction. lol

Seriously though, that's a work of art.

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#10 _cliffos_

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 06:24 PM

so it could be possible that old mate from the exhaust place is a little on the" all thumbs" side & if it don't fit 1000% first go .... he tries to sell you another set of headers that make his life easier ....

these guys have a pretty good reputation ,from everyone i have talked to anyway ,I think its best to see it for myself

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#11 _cliffos_

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Posted 07 January 2014 - 06:27 PM

after reading James 's dilemma ,I think i'll go with something else .......What head trauma

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#12 zodiac GTR

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 02:33 AM

after reading James 's dilemma ,I think i'll go with something else .......What head trauma

pacemakers ! !

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#13 Dave6179

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 07:34 AM

I had to make my PMs fit properly. Two piece, never bolted to an engine, $250.

No 1 fouled on the std 35 amp alternator (I have a thicker 80amp) so I cut and reshaped to suit. No 6 pipe had to be extended 1/2 inch to fit the head. Then the secondaries had to be altered, it's like they weren't designed for a red six!

Years ago I bought a set of Coby's, couldn't get them for my HJ, was told they were for the LC/J, and had to reduce the overall height by 2 inches as they hung too low. And had to finish the factory welding under No 6 flange.

It would appear everything needs 'massaging' to suit. Dunno who draws these things up but more time is needed to get it right! Even at the price they charge.... they should bloody fit!!!

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#14 _Macka_

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 07:55 AM

My PM's fitted up without any mods whatsoever.

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#15 orangeLJ

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Posted 10 January 2014 - 05:58 AM

Id be interested in the hm9cs if you are going to get rid of them.

Also, if you want a custom set of pipes built, and are in the Sydney/Newcastle area, pm me.

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#16 Dave6179

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 10:09 AM

I made my own 6 into 1 set. Was as good as the PMs, slightly more up top, but with all that pipework it got hot in there! Even wrapped the heat was difficult to control. I even thought about somehow running a duct from under the carbs to the GTS flutes in the hope of 'scavenging' the heat out.

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#17 _2ELCS_

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 08:58 PM

I have a set of these in my car..I knew from square one I needed some modifications..but the're fitted up and work well..Don't hit any where or leak/

They were designed for race cars so performance orientated. not so much for ease of fitting.

About the best buy off the shelf..

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#18 rodomo

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 09:06 PM

I've got a theory on this stuff.

Buy stractors that fit your head then get a zorst joint to make up engine pipes below the collectors to suit.

Wouldn't cost too much I'd reckon?

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#19 _2ELCS_

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 09:24 PM

That's about how its done hotrod ?

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#20 N/A-PWR

CABIN ENGINE CONTROLS GALORE

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Name:Dave I
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Posted 17 March 2015 - 06:10 PM

Spotted these, and the 1 5/8 primary's look short and not tuned length:-

http://www.ebay.com....C-/221172884499

maybe a good base to start with, by lengthening the primary's?

another model here:-

http://www.caenterpr...y9jaDdhLmpwZw==

Castle Headers

Edited by NA-PWR, 17 March 2015 - 06:25 PM.

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#21 _duggan208_

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Posted 17 March 2015 - 11:17 PM

I made my own 6 into 1 set. Was as good as the PMs, slightly more up top, but with all that pipework it got hot in there! Even wrapped the heat was difficult to control. I even thought about somehow running a duct from under the carbs to the GTS flutes in the hope of 'scavenging' the heat out.

So you have got 6 pipes into one collector. Have you placed the collector at the back of the headers or towards the middle? I'm also looking at making 6 into one headers.

regards

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#22 Dave6179

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Posted 18 March 2015 - 01:20 PM

The collector is back by the bellhousing. Three pipes on top... 153 left to right, and three below... 624, right to left. I managed to get the length of the pipes within a quarter inch of each other.

But so much heat!!! Sounded awsome though.

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#23 _duggan208_

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Posted 18 March 2015 - 11:25 PM

I like that, have to come up with some sort of cold air duct to force cool air over the collector and take some hot air out under the floor.

Regards

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#24 Dave6179

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Posted 19 March 2015 - 02:34 PM

Been trying to do the same since. Cut holes in the rad panel, with ducting in the front to maximise cool air from the front of the car, GTS flutes, heat shields all over the place with little joy. Next on the list is a large diameter heat proof flexi hose (in the shed) from the side of the zorst to the flutes... hopefully enough 'vacuum' beside the car to draw the heat out rather than trying to push it out. Time will tell.