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Acrylic 'vs' Two pack


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#1 TravsSLR

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 09:55 PM

Hey guys, this year will be 21 yrs that I've owned my Torana.

I'm thinking of giving her a 21st b'day respray.

2 options -  Acrylic or Two pack.

I want to keep the paint and colour as original as I can.

My car (the Frog) is a Mint julep SLR 5000.

Questions to the Torana enthusiast out there,

can 2pack match the exact colour that acrylic produced.

 



#2 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 10:00 PM

Yes. It can match the color perfectly, after all its just pigment suspended in a binder. 

 

And with the correct procedures can also match the finish, or "lustre" to a T as well. 

 

If your intending on bare metaling it can also provide far superior protection and stability of the finish. 

 

Cheers. 



#3 REDA9X

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 11:02 PM

If I was rstoring a car to original condition i'd go with Acrylic. 2 Pac is tougher, but you're probably not going to be using the car much anyway. 50-50 really, but most painters use 2 pac now



#4 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 11:19 PM

Actually, Red, heres a really stupid paint question from me for a change. 

 

Were they originally painted in Acrylic Laquer or Baked Enamel?

 

Cheers. 



#5 Dr Terry

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 09:12 AM

Actually, Red, heres a really stupid paint question from me for a change. 

 

Were they originally painted in Acrylic Laquer or Baked Enamel?

 

Cheers. 

 

I'll jump in here. All Holdens from mid 1960 to early 1994 were painted Acrylic Lacquer from the factory. Earlier cars were painted Nitrocellulose Lacquer.

 

Dr Terry 



#6 Davis

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 10:05 AM

I thought it was really difficult to match colour from that era due to the lead based paints...prob not an issue if you want a full respray, but if you leave the door jambs original for example might be difficult to get the color spot on.

#7 Monaroman

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 10:56 AM

I'll jump in here. All Holdens from mid 1960 to early 1994 were painted Acrylic Lacquer from the factory. Earlier cars were painted Nitrocellulose Lacquer.

 

Dr Terry 

Dr Terry

My old man was always calling the paint "duco" on his EH, HR. Was that a term they used for the Nitrocellulose paint you mentioned?

Cheers

Keith



#8 _Lazarus_

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 11:01 AM

Where does the term 'Duco' come from. It is an old australian term to describe car paint work.
 
Duco is a durable, quick-drying finish invented by DuPont in the 1920s used in car manufacturing. It was produced into the late 1960s



Read more http://www.kgbanswer...5#ixzz2zCAfVCDG



#9 Dr Terry

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 11:28 AM

Yes, the old Nitrocellulose Lacquer was branded Duco (a Dupont name). Acrylic Lacquer was branded Dulon, but everyone in those days called any shiny car paint finish 'Duco' as a generic name, even though 1960 onwards was Dulon.

 

AFAIK Dulux was also a Dupont name.

 

Dr Terry



#10 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 11:49 AM

I thought it was really difficult to match colour from that era due to the lead based paints...prob not an issue if you want a full respray, but if you leave the door jambs original for example might be difficult to get the color spot on.

 

Nope. Any competent paint shop will be able to match it. 

 

All the lead did was make it more opaque. 

 

Thanks for the confirmation Terry, wasnt sure. 

 

Cheers. 



#11 S pack

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 12:07 PM

Dulon 'Magic Mirror' acrylic lacquer up to mid (approx) 1973 when GMH changed over to Dulon 'Third Generation' acrylic lacquer.



#12 TravsSLR

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 12:10 PM

thanks guys for your input and thoughts and depth of knowledge.

I intend to do a bare metal respray when I do finally get it done.

With this info, I'll go and visit several paint/panel workshops and see what they have to offer.

Another ques,

what is the price range I should be looking at, so I don't get ripped off.

Trav



#13 _LHSL308_

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 01:01 PM

I am interested to know how you can tell if your existing paint is either acrylic or 2pac?

#14 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 01:23 PM

Lhsl308, wipe some thinners over it.

Acrylic will soften.

Trav, inside outside bare metal between 10,000 and 50,000 depending on how much you can do, what your starting with, and what standard you want.

Cheers.

#15 _LHSL308_

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 03:00 PM

Cheers DJ, i'll have to try it in an inconspicuous spot.



#16 dattoman

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 03:46 PM

I'll jump in here. All Holdens from mid 1960 to early 1994 were painted Acrylic Lacquer from the factory. Earlier cars were painted Nitrocellulose Lacquer.

 

Dr Terry 

 

Whatever they were using at Holden from 88 on is rubbish

So many faded cars around lately

VN-VP SS's seems to be the worst :)

 

Infact lots of cars build around the late 80's to early 2000 suffer badly from paint issues it seems

Especially here in the west



#17 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 03:50 PM

Early polyurethane clearcoats without enough UV protection. 

 

American Japanese and European paint manufacturers dont have to deal with the kind of UV assult our cars get. 

 

Holden was using Dulon/PPG product still i think in that time?

 

Cheers. 



#18 _Dustings_

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 05:15 PM

If I was rstoring a car to original condition i'd go with Acrylic. 2 Pac is tougher, but you're probably not going to be using the car much anyway. 50-50 really, but most painters use 2 pac now



Our SLR was restored in acrylic, and yeah only sees daylight at race meetings

#19 myss427

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 05:45 PM

Painted the A9X in acrylic, easy to paint but so soft and chips just looking at it! Started painting the hatch in House of Colour pearl and the quality and finish compared to acrylic is chalk and cheese.



#20 S pack

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 05:48 PM

Holden was using Dulon/PPG product still i think in that time?

 

Cheers. 

Don't know if this is true or not but I was told by the panel shop that replaced the rear bumper on the wife's VS that the VS series Commodore was the first Holden to get 2 pack paint.

Up till then they were still using Acrylic.



#21 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 05:51 PM

Quiet possibly mate, i've got no clue TBH. 



#22 wot179

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 06:28 PM

I personally think acrylic looks nicer...more "organic".

 

2k looks like plastic, which is fine if that's what you like.

 

Peace, brothers.



#23 warrenm

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 08:46 AM

I personally think acrylic looks nicer...more "organic".

 

2k looks like plastic, which is fine if that's what you like.

 

Peace, brothers.

:spoton:



#24 ToranaLX76

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 09:44 AM

In my case the front of my car was already in 2 pac but from the doors back was acrylic, so like you I was in 2 minds of either acrylic or 2 pac, decided to go 2 pack. To give it the the more origninal flatter look and also cover the inperfections from my paintwork I cut it back with 3000 and buffed.  The parts I have done so are looks great so far.

 

What I like about it is the tight areas like the gutter molds are hard to get to with a buffer at least with the lack of equipment and knowledge you dont need to cut back and they are shiny from the gun.

 

Also the paint is definately a lot harder, I noticed this when fitting up my flare kit with the moving and manipulation going on, the acrylic scratched quite easily, the 2 pac didn't mark at all.



#25 hanra

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Posted 19 April 2014 - 02:19 PM

Early polyurethane clearcoats without enough UV protection.

American Japanese and European paint manufacturers dont have to deal with the kind of UV assult our cars get.


I tend to agree looking at my BMWs clear coat.




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