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tri,or parrallel 4 links regd in toranas


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#26 Bullet

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 09:30 AM

hey Ryan, we've stretched the arches on my LC 90mm backwards only, havent touched the front and I recon it looks fine.

I have the tubs cut out of mine ATM and tried to fit 28 x 10.5 x 15's on 10" rims but was too wide, on 8.5" rims sames tyre they fitted fine.

So I think you could get a 275/60/15 on a 8.5" or 9" rim without moving the rail.

 

Cheers Bullet

Attached File  IMG_1489.jpeg   212.54K   5 downloads

90mm stretch

 

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90mm all finished

 

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10" rim from front, 28x10.5

 

Attached File  8s from front.JPG   225.49K   3 downloads

8" rim from front, 28x10.5



#27 _THUG LJ_

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 10:03 PM

Hi Mark.

 

Cheers for the info! just one question about the first two photos. It appears you have a replacement lower section of the quarter on there.

As mine has no rust there and wont be replacing that section, would you still recommend cutting that section off first, then stretching the guard and then replacing the lower section again to keep the lines right?

I was looking at mine and as the line that runs the length of the car is not parallel with the line down the bottom I wouldn't be able to just move the whole section back and have the lower line stay where it needs to be.

I considered just re-shaping the piece that comes off but I think I will either have to sacrifice the top of the wheel arch not keeping the right shape, or the lower line not staying straight. Which neither one is acceptable for me.

your opinion would be appreciated.

cheers mate.



#28 _THUG LJ_

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 10:14 PM

I'm not much of an artist ;) but the way I imagine would be best to attack it (please correct me as I have never done anything like this before) is cut the red section off first, then the yellow section, then the blue and discard it. Then move the yellow section back parallel with the line on the body. Then bend up the bit in the top of the wheel arch and put that in. Then put the lower section on and trim it up.

how did I go? :)

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#29 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 01:10 AM

i hope this is cool with frank ,this is how he done a 2dr.most likely be doing mine the same

instead of doing both sides of archAttached File  ljzedded 264.jpg   164.27K   2 downloads



#30 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 02:18 AM

hey Ryan .there is another alternative than going the clip route.and it doesn't involve cutting the whole arse end out,and i reckon

you could do it rather easily.and still have a parallel 4 link setup,as long as you are happy with 275s you could cut a 2' wide strip

across the floor and through chassis rails just behind that panel on the floor what the backseat sits on.and get some 75x50 square

tube and something like an 1' x2' square tube for the tailshaft loop, fabricate and weld it in.then get the brackets and they will be

welded on the inside of the chassis rails etc.you can actually buy these kits including the link bars etc.ray mcdonald has these

kits for 1 tonners but a bit different in the tailshaft loop and a few other places do too.or just get a fabricator to do it for you.saves

alot of mucking around and if i had my way again i would of done this.would of saved a wad of cash and the beast would pass rego

easily.im seriously considering putting one of frank zagari's 4 link clips the same as jakes but having the parallel bars on the inside

so the chassis clip wont protrude into the back seat area f@$k all.i will put a pic up to show you what i mean

 

cheers Maz


Edited by madtoranajzedded, 09 July 2014 - 02:29 AM.


#31 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 02:27 AM

Attached File  ljzedded 255.jpg   203.55K   2 downloads



#32 Bullet

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 09:45 AM

I'm not much of an artist ;) but the way I imagine would be best to attack it (please correct me as I have never done anything like this before) is cut the red section off first, then the yellow section, then the blue and discard it. Then move the yellow section back parallel with the line on the body. Then bend up the bit in the top of the wheel arch and put that in. Then put the lower section on and trim it up.

how did I go? :)

Hey Ryan,

your on the right track mate, my bro inlaw Pat is doing all my panel work ( he's a panel beater) and i'm sure what you described is how he did mine. you defiantly do need to cut along the lines to keep them true plus is easier when it comes time to weld. Pat is a member on here now so I'll get him to post up any tips he has as I'm just a dumb diesel fitter ha ha.

 

Maz,

that clip looks sweet but my engineer wont let me even alter the rails a little for more clearance. I think it can be done if you can find an engineer that is willing to let you but there is a heap of hoops to jump through, jpd86 commented on my build, he has altered his rails but has to do a torsion rigidity test, which is farely involved.

 

Cheers Bullet



#33 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 11:57 PM

it does hey mark,could nearly get a backseat in there too with some trick fabrication,i have john lang that is going to do the mods and 

he's pretty much on top of the situation,just saving saving saving atm.early nxt yr work will start.gee i cant wait till that day comes

all money is tied up and given me the shits lol.



#34 _Pgovan90_

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Posted 13 July 2014 - 11:51 PM

Hey Ryan.
I'm Patrick I'm doing Mark's LC. Your's is a tuff torrie by the way! Like Mark said you're definitely on the right track in stretching them wheel arches, my advice would be cos you are not replacing bottom section with new I would do a cut similar to the second pic towards the back as you would have only one vertical cut ! Makes for a cleaner job, same as when welding it less welding to do the better. So that yellow line you drew on the pic of Mark's quarter panel, I would cut right down to the bottom. The bottom body line and fold will need a little bit of reshaping with hammer and dolly and so will the main middle body line but it's fairly straight forward just take your time and you will be right going by your car you seem very knowledgeable mate.

Mark don't you think that rear clip would look good in your lc

#35 _THUG LJ_

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 04:08 PM

Hey Pat,

cheers for the info mate.

I cant help but think that for me the panel reshaping is going to be more difficult than the extra welding?

the first photo I have just run a red line on the two lines of the body to explain what I'm worried about.

the body lines are not parallel and I obviously want to keep those two lines straight.

I thought about lifting the back of the guard up before welding back on but the lower line wont be straight? it will be heading down on a steeper angle on the welded in section?

If I just move it straight back the lines wont even meet shown by the second pic yeh?

I'm not trying to discount what you are saying I just don't want to chop up the body of my car until I fully understand what I'm getting myself into. 

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#36 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 10:55 PM

this is another cheap alternative than removing chassis rails as i mentioned above.this is on a one tonner but same principle is applied to sedan Attached File  ljzedded 268.jpg   89.82K   2 downloads

 

 



#37 N/A-PWR

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 11:10 PM

Nice Job on the Guard Maz



I got to make the guard lips for mine, all rusted



#38 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 11:21 PM

Nice Job on the Guard Maz



I got to make the guard lips for mine, all rusted

iv'e seen them rust there too dave,especially when the lip has been bashed up and dirt,mud sits in there.

im cutting the inner lip off mine and running guage wire for strength seems i have tubs



#39 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 11:55 PM

only a small amount of floor pan is removed ,and then boxed over parallel 4 link bars, this is way easier than ripping out the whole floor.pic is of a a 57 floorpan,.this fabrication would only stick up a little bit more in a lc-lj floor Attached File  ljzedded 287.jpg   70.66K   1 downloads



#40 _THUG LJ_

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 02:13 PM

what is the benefit of a parallel over triangulated 4 link?

I am thinking of doing a modified triangulated 4 link since the diff is going to move back anyway, and ill need new trailing arms.

i cant seem to find anything yet that sells me on the parallel 4 link.



#41 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 05:19 PM

Hi ryan the try y configuration is basically for peeps who want to accomodate larger tires aswell as retaining the rear seat
they do have small adjustment for pinion angle through there adjustable bars and when track conditions change you
are limited to fine tuning it to conditions,but can be made to work,but its got nothing on a parallel setup
that open the door to a whole world of adjustability,can alter things as instant centre.for maximum traction when launching
from a stationary position.adjust to maximise the cars rearward weight transfer.can be adjusted to prevent oversteer
caused by body roll when cornering.heaps of shit,im only at the beginner stage to how this all works,its a fine art and would take quite
some time and experience to work out what works and what doesnt to find the g spot,personally if your chasing serious
numbers its the way to go,there's quite a few in mod street with the original factory setup in the 8s which is quite
remarkable,id talk to some experienced guys in mod street and see what they say before you get the blowtorch out
i wish i did lol.

cheers Maz

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 19 July 2014 - 05:22 PM.


#42 _THUG LJ_

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 06:20 PM

I'm not really planning on racing it competitively. I just cant afford it. if I can manage to get a high 8 I will be wrapped!

the car is built more for events like powercruise. just saying I ran an 8 would be a feather in my cap ;)

from what I have read if you don't know what your doing, a parallel 4 link is not for you due to the infinite adjustability of them.

I am definitely in that category! haha. I want to keep it simple, run what I can, and hopefully not put it on its lid or into the wall....


Edited by THUG LJ, 19 July 2014 - 06:21 PM.


#43 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 12:07 AM

haha me too bud,opened up a big can of worms,but im eager to learn even though im getting along in age.part of the fun i guess.

but the work i have seen you do to the big job tells me you could handle this no worries,from what i know the try y is only good for

cruising ,parallel with equal length bars good for street/strip,like the that clip pic i put up,and unequal length bars is best for drag use only.

i will look forward with interest to see what you decide do with your beast bud.wouldnt mind a set of those stickers along the side

of your car lol  :spoton:



#44 _THUG LJ_

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 01:46 PM

haha thanks mate. yeh I got a lot of comments on them at powercruise!! but when it was in Perth street car mag they photoshopped the "get us or get f@cked" out.

not very appropriate I suppose...



#45 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 02:05 PM

lol,they are spoil sports haha,have you talked to any dudes over your way about what you are thinking at doing.

At summernats nearly every second car had one.with the rego sticker,


Edited by madtoranajzedded, 20 July 2014 - 02:06 PM.


#46 _THUG LJ_

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 06:19 PM

you don't see many sedans getting around in Perth. I can only think of one good one, and that is set up as mine is now. the good thing for me is that I'm clearly not too worried about rego.

I could have 1000 rego stickers and the cops will still want to kill me if I have that fu*ken thing on the road. not saying it will stop me ;) I'm sure I've said it before but this car to me is a training vessel.

it doesn't have to be the best, and I'm not building it for anyone else. Its just for me. As long as I learn while doing what I do then I'm winning. one day ill have a good car ;)

That's kinda what the plates are about. probably should be HACK instead of THUG but people might think I'm just saying the car is a hack around car. haha  



#47 Bullet

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 11:59 AM

Saw this on book face the other day looks good.
Is this sort of what your after Ryan?
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#48 _THUG LJ_

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 02:47 AM

Nar I think that is a parallel 4 link by the look of it.

Just with really short upper trailing arms.






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