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trailing arm bushes


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#1 _steve253_

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Posted 21 July 2014 - 04:47 PM

Gday all. Im in the process of replacing the 8 bushes in the trailing arms on my LH. Im doing this as the car has had a shudder in it from moving off from a standstill. Its not a clutch problem as that was replaced and flywheel machined. The bushes look to be the original ones, all cracked, soft and worn. My problem is I changed the 6 that are in the arms out on the bench, easy job. But how do I get the 2 out that are pressed into the diff housing. Why wouldn't they just press them all into the arms. Anyone got any tips to remove the last 2 bushes. Cheers Steve.



#2 EunUCh

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Posted 21 July 2014 - 05:56 PM

Just butcher them without damaging the  bush housing on the diff.



#3 Lazarus

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Posted 21 July 2014 - 07:46 PM

Get a cold chisel, run it length ways and smash (fold) in the cylindrical section hanging out the back to reduce the diameter. Then you should be able to knock them out with a bit of wood over the end to spread the blow.

 

Hard to explain but yeah, just butcher them.

 

 

.


Edited by Lazarus, 21 July 2014 - 07:48 PM.


#4 jass_hatch

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Posted 21 July 2014 - 08:05 PM

Hi Steve, I have done this before.

What you need:

1 long bolt (full thread) with nut that fits through the hole in bush

2 pieces of pipe-1 that is internally big enough that the bush can slide up it (I will call A),and 1 that's the same diameter as the bush ( B )approx 50mm long

2 x piece of flat steel 40mm longer than the diameter of (A) and ( B )with a hole drill half way along to suit bolt

 

Steps:

Once under car at bush, place bolt through longest piece of steel, then through (A), through "head" of bush, out the other side of bush, through ( B ), through other piece of steel and place nut on bolt. Tighten nut centering (A) so it doesn't touch bush, (B)fits exactly on bush. Tighten nut and it will press out.

 

To install

Turn your jig around and do the same to press it in. You could even not use (B)here and just use a piece of 60mmx 60mm flat steel with a hole in the middle. So bolt goes through longest steel, through pipe (A), through housing mount,  through "foot" of bush, through steel plate. Tighten nut and it will pull in.

 

Hope it helps. Bit of setting up getting the right pipe, but once you have it you will be right

 

Jason


Edited by jass_hatch, 21 July 2014 - 08:08 PM.


#5 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 21 July 2014 - 11:05 PM

An air chisel/hammer will do the job in a couple of minutes if you don't have time to make your own puller.

 

Something like this.

http://www.superchea...id=340369#Cross



#6 _abtorana_

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Posted 22 July 2014 - 04:02 PM

I just improvised with what I had laying around

 

 

Attached Files



#7 76lxhatch

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Posted 22 July 2014 - 09:44 PM

The threaded puller is a better idea as after changing a couple of bits it will also allow you to install the new ones!

#8 Mort

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Posted 25 July 2014 - 10:51 PM

I drilled out the rubber, then used an air chisel to fold over the ends and just belted the outer case out.

IMG_2274_zpsf215469e.jpg IMG_2275_zps893bb443.jpg IMG_2276_zpsd79de60d.jpg

 

Fitting the new ones i made my own tool, a long bolt, nut, two large washers bigger than the bush and some smaller washers for packing.

IMG_2272_zpsae296b5c.jpg

 

I tightened the nut and then give it a whack from the small washer end with the hammer to seat the bush.

 

When i did the trailing arm bushes i used a fence post cap as well.

IMG_2271_zpse93069d2.jpg IMG_2266_zps22217396.jpg

 

put the head of the bolt in the vice, a block of wood in the middle of the arm  and tightened down with a spanner.


Edited by Mort, 25 July 2014 - 10:52 PM.


#9 _steve253_

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Posted 28 July 2014 - 04:00 PM

I made up a puller with threaded rod. Put a lot of pressure on the bush and gave it a few hits with a large hammer and it didn't move a bit. So I pulled the diff out of the car. Will have another crack at them while on the bench. Replacing the pinion seal as well as its leaking. Got to be easier to do on the bench than under the car.



#10 N/A-PWR

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Posted 28 July 2014 - 05:00 PM

Good on you Steve,

 

sure is a tough bugger, as said, butcher them out,

 

as your are not going to be using them again.

 

 

Always better to do a job with a straight back.



#11 WhaleOilBeefHooked

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Posted 28 July 2014 - 05:32 PM

Yep drill multiple holes through old bushes and then remove the rubber, Makes removing the steel outer case a little easier......



#12 Lazarus

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Posted 29 July 2014 - 10:11 AM

I seriously doubt that mine would have moved with a puller. They were the originals and fairly well rusted in.

 

I pulled out the diff too and changed the pinion seal. The tank was also out for a repair so it was a good time to slap some paint around under there.



#13 EunUCh

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Posted 29 July 2014 - 05:08 PM

Always easier with diff out,a few more bolts to undo but it is better that on your back under a car,just end up getting wild with it,no room to swing a cat

let alone a hammer,and you can always check a few other things when it is out.



#14 TerrA LX

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Posted 29 July 2014 - 05:17 PM

nothing like pulling the third member out for a good going over.



#15 _steve253_

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 05:09 PM

thanks everyone. jobs done, shudder is gone and the rear suspension is a hell of a lot tighter. feels every bump in the road now. cheers



#16 My390

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Posted 14 September 2020 - 09:57 PM

These old threads have a lot of great info. Made a puller and got the rubber bushes out fairly easy.

 

the steel outer case is rusted on fairly solid. Any other tips? Or just keep at it? 



#17 Heath

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 01:15 PM

Soaking it in WD40 is a no brainer but you've probably already tried that.

 

Some people try and loosen the mechanical friction caused by the tight "fit" by carefully running a cutting wheel (or a hacksaw blade, pencil grinder etc.) through it with the hope that it'll weaken and collapse a little.



#18 My390

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 01:56 PM

Thanks Heath. They have been soaked in WD40 quite a few times. So far I have got 3 out by using the long bolt puller as described and bashing the sleeve out carefully. I will try cutting it a little. Only 5 to go.



#19 76lxhatch

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 02:45 PM

If the inner rubber is coming out and leaving the bushing shell behind then your puller needs a larger diameter so it pushes on the shell itself rather than just separating the rubber part.

 

Once you've separated the rubber the easiest way to get them out is destruction, just attack with an air hammer/chisel and collapse them inward to avoid damaging anything other than the bushing shell.






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