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Oil viscosity

Started by _Muzzy_ , Jul 30 2014 06:20 PM

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93 replies to this topic

#76 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 07:47 AM

One example that may be of interest, is the 400,000 year old chamberlane crain i operate at work as required.

When i started there 8 1/2 years ago it had 0psi at idle and crept uo to about 15 psi pinned. When stone cold and holding it to build up air you would soetimes see the oil guage skyrocket to 20psi or so.

8 1/2 years later, a new oil pressure guage, and about 4000 engine hours added, guess what, still going just the same, and oil pressures are the same.

Not saying you should aim for those figures if you want engine longevity, just pointing out that whats on the guage is often irrelevant.

Cheers.

Gotta love the old yard cranes. Jumper leads behind the seat, reeking of aerostart and serviced religiously every 30 years, right on the dot...

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#77 SA EH

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 09:59 AM

For what it's worth, I'm running 10/40 ULX in my weapon of choice.
We have a number of the BMW's at our work running it now. On a good day they should be running the LLO1 5/30 castrol but now with a few kay's on the clock they're burning it... Not rings, but valve guides. We tries different brands, viscosities, everything. Eventually tried ULX 10/40 & 20/50 on the bad ones.
We couldn't believe the results! It stopped any visible oil burn and oil consumption. It's converted me...

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#78 SA EH

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 10:24 AM

Bearing in mind that most beemers have a 25000km service interval

Edited by SA EH, 03 August 2014 - 10:24 AM.

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#79 N/A-PWR

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 11:45 AM

Just a Note, and thank-you Oldjohnno for Your Valuable Information,

19 of the 202 Short Motors I used were cheap ( $50/$100 ) Used Motors,

Just whacked a Big Cam, High Volume Oil Pump ( HP, I have heard were not good to use ),

the Racing Head ( Double Valve Springs ), and did the Big End in all of them after 4000kms.

On one occasion I used a Brand New Short Motor Build, and used 20/50 oil,

and she only Lasted 6500kms, before the Big End went.

Not that it worried me, as 7500rpm, all day Hyundai, it was to be expected.

So you can see that all these 202 Short Motors had Standard Internals,

which only Only one Cracked the Block between the 3rd and 4th Pot Vertically.

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#80 warrenm

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 05:09 PM

Dave I, A good chance that most of the oil was in the rocker cover if you were using a high volume pump, which may allow the pump to suck air, thus the be says enough.

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#81 N/A-PWR

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 05:16 PM

Must pump a lot, thank's Warren.

Dave I, A good chance that most of the oil was in the rocker cover if you were using a high volume pump, which may allow the pump to suck air, thus the be says enough.

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#82 warrenm

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 10:57 PM

Must pump a lot, thank's Warren.

In a std motor, the oil doesn't drain that well from the head area at sustained high revs.

Edited by warrenm, 03 August 2014 - 10:58 PM.

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#83 _SRV_

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 11:39 PM

Yes. Dirty worn out clunkers still want thick oil and low detergent. Theoretically you shouldn't run high detergent oil with very high spring pressures either (the detergent competes with the zinc) but I haven't had any problems. For a balls-out engine with big springs though it might be safer to stick with a lower det oil.

Thanks John.

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#84 N/A-PWR

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Posted 04 August 2014 - 04:06 AM

Will have to do something about your recommendation Warren,

I remember, when the Tappet Cover was off while Idling,

the Oil was coming out of the push rods, like a Water Pistol.

In a std motor, the oil doesn't drain that well from the head area at sustained high revs.

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#85 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 04 August 2014 - 07:19 AM

In a std motor, the oil doesn't drain that well from the head area at sustained high revs.

Especially if the engine is vented from the rocker cover - the oil is trying to drain back down while the blowby is rushing up through the same holes. The answer obviously is to vent from somewhere else. I do it from the front side cover, this seems to work but I still don't think it's ideal - you still have the blowby and the oil wanting to use the same drain holes over the cam. It'd probably be best to vent from the timing cover or the left side of the sump.

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#86 _ljxu1torana_

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Posted 02 September 2014 - 11:23 PM

I am using nulon 20/50 that has been in my turbo 186 lj torana.It has only done about 3 kays in the last 4 years.I know the oil is still in good condition,i was thinking of using either mobil 1 5/50 or castrol edge 10/60.are these oils recommended for these older motors.thanks jason.

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#87 _Ned Loh_

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Posted 09 October 2014 - 01:25 PM

some good info and discussion in the thread (amongst the other stuff).

For a street engine I suspect the answer to the "which oil" question is anything as long as it is wet.

For those who want to give it the best even if it may not really require it, I'd strongly consider a 0w-40 (provided you could get an additive pack to your liking).

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#88 _Ned Loh_

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 04:35 PM

Thought this may interest some:

www.blackstone-labs.com/Newsletters/Gas-Diesel/July-1-2014

As close as us normal folks are going to get to evidence based on fact.

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#89 EunUCh

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 04:41 PM

Maybe a Castor Oil based oil would be a good thing ? Aparantly it has reasonable lubricating properties.

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#90 _Ned Loh_

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 05:11 PM

I'd draw the line at cod liver oil myself.

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#91 _judgelj_

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 06:24 PM

Veggie oil?

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#92 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 06:58 PM

Maybe a Castor Oil based oil would be a good thing ? Aparantly it has reasonable lubricating properties.

That's the understatement of the century. Castor oil is still the benchmark for high temperature use and performs far in excess of either mineral or synthetics in that application. Where "normal" oils thin and run off very hot surfaces, castor reacts by cooking into an ester and clinging. As the temperatures increase further, the castor doesn't thin or burn off, it just converts into increasingly heavy esters. Traditional castors have had problems with gumming among other things but some modern castor/synthetic blends has reduced the problems significantly. It's still not something you'd use in a daily driver but there are applications where nothing else can match it. I use a castor blend (Shell M) in one of my bikes - big bore, high output air cooled two strokes like nothing more than to seize at full noise and my clutch finger is a bit more at ease with castor.