Hi James, Amazing how the quality of repairs has improved, even by Sparkys and Handymen.
Here's the new and updated measurements.
IMG_9617.jpeg 155.36K 14 downloads
Marty
Posted 25 May 2020 - 09:42 PM
Hi James, Amazing how the quality of repairs has improved, even by Sparkys and Handymen.
Here's the new and updated measurements.
IMG_9617.jpeg 155.36K 14 downloads
Marty
Posted 25 May 2020 - 09:51 PM
Hi Marty Thank that's perfect
James
Posted 26 May 2020 - 06:56 AM
Posted 26 May 2020 - 09:30 AM
Thanks for that Hip6. at least I now know what it was for so it will be welded up today
James
Posted 26 May 2020 - 07:15 PM
Having a break from the floors and sills. I started working on the doors today, stripping paint to see which doors are the best to use (I have7 doors and the original two to work with).
Rust in the usual places, bottom of door and the top sections have several pin holes which I am sure will end up being worse.
From what I can gather from the forum is that it would be best to fix the original doors, can someone confirm this for me?
Has anyone used the rare spares top and bottom replacement panels and if so are they any good?
I have made a patch for rust in the door frame so far and will tackle the skin tomorrow.
James
Posted 26 May 2020 - 09:56 PM
That will be because the hinges aren't adjustable like the big Toranas.From what I can gather from the forum is that it would be best to fix the original doors, can someone confirm this for me?
Posted 07 June 2020 - 12:52 AM
trying to decide the best pace to cut when replacing the beaver panel that will be the easiest to instal and look the best inside and outside of the boot. Have tried searching the forum but can't find any info Dad said on the curve below the bumper but I am not sure any ideas links or pics appreciated James
Posted 07 June 2020 - 08:59 AM
If you have the bumper off in behind it will be a long line of spot welds were it joins the lip of the inner boot floor, if you drill the outer spot welds out slice a nice line right along the middle of them and the replace.
Once bumper gos back on you will never know.
Cheers gong message me for a pic if you get mind fxxked with my wording 0478847765
Posted 07 June 2020 - 09:51 AM
Thanks Gong I will have a look today
Posted 07 June 2020 - 09:58 AM
Posted 07 June 2020 - 10:42 AM
Thanks Gene
Posted 07 June 2020 - 10:27 PM
Tip: Anywhere you cut must be easy access to weld and grind back
Posted 07 June 2020 - 11:53 PM
Thanks Rodomo, I think that was what dad was getting at with the edge of the curve so I could clean up my crappy welds I am getting better at ending but am probably a better grinder than welder if you know what I mean.
Posted 08 June 2020 - 03:34 PM
Hi James,
I was told best if you can weld on the flat so you can get a dolly in-behind to tap-out as welding.
I've cut my old beaver off at the join line as Gong suggested (about 2cm up from curve) basically using the whole replacement beaver. I'm months away from fitting this so the plan might change or it won't work?
Marty
Posted 08 June 2020 - 04:03 PM
Hi Marty,
I cut the old one off below the lip as I had to repair the inner panel which was a pile of rust as I was not sure how to best use the replacement part. Do you have any pics of what's left on yours (inside the boot)?
James
Posted 08 June 2020 - 04:49 PM
Just texted you some pics
Posted 08 June 2020 - 04:53 PM
Thanks Marty
Posted 08 June 2020 - 10:03 PM
probably a better grinder than welder if you know what I mean.
You know you've done a lot of grinding when:
A: You can sharpen a drill bit, angle grinder in one hand, drill bit in the other.
B: Heat treat a chisel edge, same method.
Posted 09 June 2020 - 10:27 AM
You're just showing off now
Posted 08 August 2020 - 08:24 PM
Ok had a few hours to work on the Torana today.
I was lucky enough to score a section of transmission tunnel from Ken (Limo). Thanks very much for the time taken to cut out and send to WA it is most appreciated.
I was able to superimpose the replacement panel over the existing mess and scribe a section to cut and replace. I am happy with the end result and will finish the grinding tomorrow before moving on to the next section.
Posted 08 August 2020 - 09:54 PM
Posted 08 August 2020 - 10:13 PM
Thanks Gene its taking a while but teaching myself as I go on, could not do it without the help and inspiration from people on this forum and help from the old man
Posted 08 August 2020 - 11:56 PM
Great job James.
I see that tunnel got Gene a little excited.
Marty
Posted 14 August 2020 - 06:19 PM
Still playing around with door rust repairs.
I was planning to use the original doors so fixed up the passenger side and was fairly happy with that, unfortunately the Drivers side inner door frame at the bottom
is pretty knackered as when it was repaired last it was bronzed up and then bog over bog.
So I bit the bullet and cut the entire bottom off including the door skin. As you can se surprise surprise more rust.
Now comes the fun part to try and fabricate new inner and door skin sections.
In hind sight I should have sorted the doors before replacing inner and outer sills and A pillars as I gapped the new panels to the original door. Oh well you live and learn Dad is going to give me a hand on the weekend but if anyone has any ideas or suggestions please sing out
Posted 18 August 2020 - 10:17 PM
Got a bit of work done on the door bottom on the weekend with the old mans help.
We were able to cut all the rust out of both sections of the door frame back to solid metal (boy was thee a lot of rust)
it took hours of bending shaping and then doing it all over again because it was not up to scratch but as they say it is all learning
late on Sunday I had the section repaired to a satisfactory level so I have started to spot it back into place Trying hard to make sure it maintains shape.
The plan is then get a rares bottom door repair if they are any good to replace the bottom outer skin.
Does anyone have any feedback on the rares panel ?
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