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Need help with hoses


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#1 _Briggs_

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 07:55 AM

Hi guys, have got the new motor in :buttrock: , but am confused by the new inlet manifold and carb. could you please help by telling me which hose goes where.

 

Attached File  Inlet.jpg   199.51K   2 downloads

 

Attached File  Carb L.jpg   278.53K   3 downloads

 

Attached File  Carb R.jpg   272.82K   2 downloads



#2 _Briggs_

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 08:44 AM

also, my brother put the connectors in at A, B and C, can i have the temp sensor at A?



#3 IMORAL

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 10:33 AM

Here is my take on it.

A, B or C can be temp senders. If you only have one then pulg the other two.

F in the first pick to brake booster. In the 3rd pick its K

E & D to the heater is you have one. If not plug them

G. Plug it

H. Vac line for auto transmission modulator. If a manual plug it

J and I. Not sure. Never seen one there.

L. Plug it

 

Do you run a PCV? If you do then that need to be on a tee piece where K is is the first pick.



#4 wot179

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 11:03 AM

Looks like brake booster is already hooked up to the front under the carby.



#5 _Briggs_

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 11:09 AM

i think what you're looking at is the hose running to the rocker cover.



#6 IMORAL

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 11:54 AM

Looks like brake booster is already hooked up to the front under the carby.

i mised that Craig. Good pick up. That might be going to the PCV.



i think what you're looking at is the hose running to the rocker cover.

 

That will be your PCV then.



#7 _Briggs_

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 04:42 PM

the hose that's going to the rocker cover, the last motor ran it to the black cylinder thing (for emissions???) with a T-piece running to the rocker cover. should i do this again?



#8 IMORAL

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 08:37 PM

Yes

#9 _Briggs_

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 10:11 PM

huge thank you, you've been really helpful. will hopefully have it all up and running this weekend and start joining you guys for a few drives.



#10 _Briggs_

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 02:27 PM

ok a few more questions.

 

reading this (http://www.gmh-toran...ass#entry491119) thread, i noticed some talk about water heater manifolds, i have absolutely no idea what that is or why you would want to heat the air going into the motor? (could someone please explain) ?? but i also note that my last 308 had water connections being used by the manifold, one to the heater, one to the water pump so thought i should double check.

options...

1) i can go as described above by Paul, very simple

2) i can use a thermostat housing with two other outlets and run one to the heater as i did on the last motor, and the other back to the pump (i read somewhere about it being healthier for the thermostat to be fully plumbed in).

3) i can somehow plumb it so that the manifold is getting flow

or any combination of the three.

 

thanks to your advice everything else is ready to go, thanks again guys.

 

Briggs



#11 71Ranger

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 03:06 PM

Hi Briggs,

The water to your manifold is to heat it up for better fuel vapourisation. As far as the plumbing goes, Try and put the manifold in line with the heater, that is water pump to heater, heater to manifold, manifold to thermostat housing.

Hope this helps

Cheers Brian

#12 EunUCh

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 03:44 PM

That is right,it was used to heat the plenum under the carb. but can't see any fittings on that manifold for pipes?

It is ok in the warmer months not have heated intake as the manifold is alloy and acts like a heat sink and will get hot anyway.

 

Winter is different,had them blocked on the 253 i had and would have drama with "icing" even on warm up...but was usually on a 1 degree or below morning.



#13 S pack

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 04:04 PM

That Eldelbrock isn't a water heated manifold.

 

Paul, personally I would go for your option #2 for the heater hose set up.


Edited by S pack, 01 November 2014 - 04:05 PM.


#14 _Briggs_

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 04:11 PM

so if i run the hoses as follows (Blue)?

 


Attached File  Inlet.jpg   211.27K   3 downloads



#15 EunUCh

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 04:30 PM

I would bung "A", bung "C",bung "G".

Get a thermostat housing that has 1 or 2 "outlets",,bung one of them and run a pipe to heater "intake" then run a pipe from heater

"outlet" to the water pump "E" or "D" and bung the one that is not used on pump.

This will also act as a bypass.

I thought "H" on metering block of carb. went to ported vac. for dizzy ?



#16 IMORAL

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 10:11 PM

Shit. H could go to vac advance on dizzy. Been that long since I have had any of that stuff I forgot.
My last few manifolds and carbs have not had any of that thank frOck. Their must be another vac line near the PVC one for the auto. If it has one.

#17 _Briggs_

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 05:46 PM

I'm running an MSD dizzy that doesn't appear to have any facility for a vac hose, just plug it?



#18 S pack

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 06:21 PM

I would bung "A", bung "C",bung "G".

Get a thermostat housing that has 1 or 2 "outlets",,bung one of them and run a pipe to heater "intake" then run a pipe from heater

"outlet" to the water pump "E" or "D" and bung the one that is not used on pump.

This will also act as a bypass.

I thought "H" on metering block of carb. went to ported vac. for dizzy ?

Heater hose routing sounds good to me.

 

If the MSD Dizzy doesn't have vac advance then plug off H on the Holley metering block.



#19 _Briggs_

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Posted 04 November 2014 - 07:57 PM

was in the process of setting everything up as suggested, got the thermostat housing off and...

 

Attached File  20141104_105456.jpg   310.06K   2 downloads

 

its blocked off! do i drill it??? or run hoses from E and D to the heater and block everything else? i have all the hardware so really whatever works best.

 

thanks again guys.



#20 mick_in_oz

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Posted 04 November 2014 - 08:14 PM

That looks like a small welsh plug someone has put in there, just knock it through into the water passage in the manifold and fish it out. Could also drill it out if need be. You can then run the correct thermostat housing with the heater hose outlets.

 

As mentioned above, H in the first pic is ported vac for the dizzy. The vac connection to the modulator on the auto is normally off the top of the fitting for the brake booster, but any vacume connection to the manifold below the carb throttle plate will be fine.






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