17 replies to this topic

[The German]

Dear Torana friends,

 

im chasing a bump steer kit for my Torry but cant find one with the right specs.  9/16"

 

Any idea?

 

[355LX]

That looks promising. There is a member on here, ozyozyozy who did something similar. He is currently on a plane coming back from the USA but try PM he should be able to offer some guidance.

Edited by 355LX, 03 December 2014 - 10:08 PM.

[dattoman]

I'm guessing you ditch the old tierod ends and replace with the red bits and use the black bits with the spacers as adjustment to set the steering arms as straight as possible to reduce bump steer

[BIG KEV]

The red piece replace's the tie rod end
and the black piece is adjustable in height which is how you reduce the angle to keep as straight as possible to reduce bump steer .....I machined up something like this at work years ago to go on a new machine we got in ..never thought about making anything like that for my car ....wow have to keep my eyes and ideas open......

[76lxhatch]

Not so much straight, what's important is that the arc of the tie rod follows the arc of the stub axle. I can't see it being much use on anything resembling standard Torana suspension as you're unlikely to want to move the tie rod end away from the steering arm.

At any rate, the Torana tie rod end stud taper is very small compared to most and can be a pain to match. I'd suggest don't bother trying, just look for something with the 9/16" thread on the tie rod and that has a GM 7 degree taper stud which is not too large, then ream the steering arm to suit. One of these is a bit pricey but will last well if you look after it and allows you to adjust for a different size stud:
http://www.speedwaym...egree,2918.html

You may also find that you can just change to an easily available tie rod end and set the height you need with the reamer, would save some money on the kit. You may need to trim the tie rods to fit one of those kits too as the factory tie rod end is quite short.

[axistr]

Yep agree 100% 76lxhatch, you would be much better off just using the correct matching Torana parts. You also wouldn't be able to raise the tie rod end up much if you are running front mounted disc brake callipers or they would fowl. The only time I have noticed bump steer in a Torana is when someone has done stupid mods to the car and have miss matched components, or have bent and major miss alignment of steering components. Also someone with a good understanding of wheel alignments can work wonders on cars with bad handling characteristics.

 

One of the biggest problems I use to see is owners dropping off their vehicles for a wheel alignment complaining of bad handling and bump steer & oversteer and the problem was as simple as low tyre pressures. The first things I checked before carrying out an alignment was front & rear suspension components for ware, secure and if bent. More than 50% of the time I found tyre pressured below 25 P.S.I      

[The German]

Dear Torana friends,

 

im using a for me  custom made coilover shock system from KW Germany to lower the car as much as i want for a setup and change springs for a different weight rate..

 

Also i have made a 330mm front disc brake system with 4 pot calipers which needs some space .

 

Its just hard to find the bumpsteer kit in 9/16"

[76lxhatch]

If you can only find metric then just get longer female threaded sections and shorten and re-thread the tie rods to 14mm

[The German]

I have found a MOOG partnumber of a female 9/16" tie rod end.

 

MOOG ES 3011RL

 

Its the only one female 9/16" of the entire Moog list

[76lxhatch]

According to the Moog web site, that tie rod end has a 9/16" thread on the stud (for which the steering arms would need reaming) but its a 15mmx1.5 thread to the tie rod which is not suitable.
http://www.moog-susp...d=MOOG-ES3011RL (see Dimensions at bottom)

The ES455RL may be an option (0.562" = 9/16"):
http://www.moog-susp...ie_Rod_Ends.asp
As I said above the stud is going to be way too big for the steering arms but you could ream them to suit (not sure if 7 degree or 10 degree taper, don't suppose it matters if they are that much bigger). At least those are around the right length and have the right thread for the tie rod.

[dattoman]

Might be able to find a suitable rack end to replace the original too ?

[The German]

According to the Moog web site, that tie rod end has a 9/16" thread on the stud (for which the steering arms would need reaming) but its a 15mmx1.5 thread to the tie rod which is not suitable.
http://www.moog-susp...d=MOOG-ES3011RL (see Dimensions at bottom)

The ES455RL may be an option (0.562" = 9/16"):
http://www.moog-susp...ie_Rod_Ends.asp
As I said above the stud is going to be way too big for the steering arms but you could ream them to suit (not sure if 7 degree or 10 degree taper, don't suppose it matters if they are that much bigger). At least those are around the right length and have the right thread for the tie rod.

Datto i forget to say that i wanted to use the Moog number as a reference for the USA manufacturers of the bump steer kits that they can find me a solution.

[The German]

Mail from Racecraft USA.

 

 

"We have a couple different ones with the 9/16 thread. I am not sure if they
would work for you, but if you go on our website they are part#'s 333201TPF
& 333200TPF. Let me know if this helps.

 

 

www.racecraft.com

[ozyozyozy]

I drilled out the tie rod end hole to use a straight bolt 5/8, and had an adaptor made which screws onto the rack end.

this adaptor accepts a 5/8 by 5/8 female rose joint.

then using dial gauges and plumb bobs, with the shock and spring removed and moving suspension through its arc. 

I fitted or removed spacers between rose joint and steering arm until I could get bump steer as small as possible or get it in an arc that I want. its not just about reducing bumpsteer, you can change the bumpsteer arc, the position of were the max bumpsteer occurs.

was pretty easy just a bit time consuming.

the other reason I did this was for ease of future maintenance and service

[Heath]

^ Quite interesting... running a straight bolt through the steering arm isn't a concern for slop developing? I would have thought having the taper there was kinda critical?

 

The rose joint was still above the end of the steering arm I take it? Inverting it is a little extreme I'm guessing? What kinda distance did you end up between the two?

 

Love to see some photos if you have them.

[ozyozyozy]

It's a pretty common thing to so in the race world.
I have had it this way for nearly 10 years now and haven't even needed to replace a rose joint.
Just had car inspected for B rego too.
Think I have a 3mm spacer from memory, wanted to go smaller would have improved things but would start binding at full compression.
I have seen on a TCM torana they used what looked like a 0.5 inch rose joint and mounted underneath the steering arm to get bumpsteer correct with a Volvo rack from memory.