28 replies to this topic

[Potta]

Just after some advice and guidance.

 

I got my 4 door going nicely again and took it for a little spin to make sure everything is working ok in the hope that I may be able to take it on a cruise or two before I sell it.

 

Anyway, all was going well, brakes working fine except the pedal felt a bit hard and there was the occasional squeak if I braked hardish, but I figured that's fine, it hasn't been driven for probably 18 months so a bit of crap on the disks is to be expected.

 

At one point I applied the brakes fairly firmly and after that the car started to pull to the right a bit. After a short while it became obvious that the right front brake was partially stuck on, I could smell that hot brake smell, it was pullling to the right and when I applied the brakes it would point straight again.

 

So I decided to limp it home slowly.

 

After a while, the brake seemed to unstick itself, and the brakes were back to normal the next time I stopped.

 

However, the next time I went to stop, the pedal went straight to the floor, twice, third pump they worked ok but not properly.

 

So I kept going, super careful and pumping the brakes at every intersection and managed to get it home.

 

I checked the fluid immediately and it was full to the top but looked sort of milky, but still green.

 

I can't see any leaks anywhere and when I put the car away the brakes felt normal.

 

Could this just be due to old/contaminated fluid getting hot from the sticky piston and then becoming compressible or does it sound like a more serious issue?

 

Before it goes out again it is getting a full flush, but should I check anything else as well?

[lxsstorana]

Datto is your best man to consult with but I'll give you my opinion.

 

the braking system in an old car doesn't like not getting used.  So if you car has been sitting for 18 months, like you said, things deteriorate.

 

Sounds like your brake booster needs overhauling.  I'd also overhaul/check the brake master cylinder and flush out the brake system and add new brake fluid.

 

Doesn't cost that much to do and it gives you peace of mind, and it's a good selling point.

[S pack]

If the brakes were working ok and suddenly the pedal went to the floor and had to be pumped up and there are no obvious fluid leaks then the only conclusion can be a master cylinder fault.

[Potta]

Yeah I was hoping you wouldn't say that Dave.

 

On a positive note, it drove great and no pool of tranny fluid today, so progress has been made!!

[lxsstorana]

Sorry I replied, was only trying to help.  Won't do it again.

[Potta]

Geezus Mick, I didn't mean to diss you mate.

 

Thank you also for your input, it is appreciated.

 

I'm a bit of a social retard so please don't take it personal.

 

I read Dave's post last that's all.

[TerrA LX]

Pedal to the floor in a correctly bled system sounds like M/C failure to me also.

[UCSLE]

I think it might be a seized caliper that caused all the problems . The caliper seized causing the brake fluid to boil in that caliper , it then unseized which caused the low pedal . The milky colour in the fluid could be a sign of boiled fluid as well ?

[TOERUNNER]

i would also check the brake hoses , as they can hold the brakes on also

[TerrA LX]

Smells like water contamination to me.

[S pack]

Quote: "After a while, the brake seemed to unstick itself, and the brakes were back to normal the next time I stopped.

However, the next time I went to stop, the pedal went straight to the floor, twice, third pump they worked ok but not properly".

 

I agree the sticking right front caliper could have caused the brake fluid to boil, so why did the brake pedal go to the floor on the second brake application after the caliper came good and not whilst the caliper was stuck/seized???

[UCSLE]

Quote: "After a while, the brake seemed to unstick itself, and the brakes were back to normal the next time I stopped.

However, the next time I went to stop, the pedal went straight to the floor, twice, third pump they worked ok but not properly".

 

I agree the sticking right front caliper could have caused the brake fluid to boil, so why did the brake pedal go to the floor on the second brake application after the caliper came good and not whilst the caliper was stuck/seized???

 

Think of it like taking the cap off a radiator , more room less pressure . Heat rises , so the aerated fuild would work its way up through the system .

[EunUCh]

As already mentioned,caliper overhaul assembled with a good quality rubber grease around piston/behind dust cover.

Brake fluid is corrosive and even though you may not see a leak a very small amount gets past the seal,it is a lubricant as well.

 

Same deal goes for the master cylinder when it sits,the very small amount of fluid that does get out reacts and causes corrosion hence

a bad seal,have pulled some apart and even though sealed you get a "mark" where the buckets/seals sit for long periods,they need to used.

[Potta]

Ok, cheers guys, I'll let you know when I start pulling stuff apart, might be a while due to $$ being involved lol.

[sibhs]

Hope not to offend.
Just sell it Craig as a work in progress. Then put all cash towards the green beast. You'll also save a heap in rego and insurance.
Brakes could get expensive and I doubt you'll get that money back.
Marty

[Potta]

Yeah, fair call mate

[rodomo]

Sell it to Dave?

[Potta]

I'll sell it to whoever will give me an appropriate amount of cash 

[Potta]

Fck me 3 1/2 years since the brakes fcked up in this thing?

 

Where is the time going???

 

Anyway, still can't get pressure in the pedal, no fluid coming through when trying to bleed, fluid is definitely coming out of the master cylinder, got splashback in the face lol.

 

Any ideas what could be the problem?

 

I can't see any leaks, no movement in the new slave cylinders, flexible line isn't moving and has no kinks.

 

I'm thinking maybe a blockage but then you'd get pressure right?

 

Is it worth blasting some air through there?

 

Any tips for doing that safely/without fcking stuff up?

 

Any ideas as to what else it could be.

 

I just want to get it fixed so I can move it on.

 

Thanks in advance.

[grumpy xu1]

Have you tried disconnecting the rubber line & then "gently" pushing the pedal & the fluid drpping into a ice cream bucket or something, that will show if you have fluid going to there first ? If so work to the next bit & so on. Those flexible hoses can stuff up with age. & you're probably going to need some brake clean, heaps of rags & your compressed air & most importantly eye protection. There's like 5 or 7 lines all up & 3 hoses, not much to check.

[Potta]

Thanks Gary.

 

You're right, I'll have to take the time to go through the whole system and sort it out.

 

Going to try bleeding the master cylinder first, have seen a couple of guys on youtube do that when they have changed their master cylinder, and the symptoms of not doing it seem to match what I'm seeing.

 

Ie no brake pressure, bubbles in the reservoir.

[Rockoz]

Years ago I bought a vacuum oil changer when I had a sterndrive boat.

Great invention I was told.

Put a tube down the dipstick hole and suck the oil out and away you go.

Followed the instructions.

Only took 3 hours to get the oil out.

Time I could have used to clean the boat floor from spilled oil if I took the sump plug out, and a shit load of beers at the club.

 

Found the vacuum unit useful for something years later.

Its great for bleeding brakes.

Put the tube on, pump the vacuum, undo the bleeder and away you go.

Just need to keep an eye on the reservoir.

Was about 30 bucks. Great for bleeding brakes anyway.

[dattoman]

Got a hoist yet ?