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Starezza racecar


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#1 _NZ Toranaman_

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 02:46 PM

Take one engineless 1982 Starlet and a Toyota Altezza 4 cylinder Beams engine and a 6-speed gearbox and you have a Starezza.

 

I bought as it has a current homologated roll cage, set of slicks and some other stuff and then bought an imported JDM Beams engine which pokes out 207HP standard.

 

As I got further and further into the project i started to think that this car needed a few additional things put right.

 

I still have a fair way to go and little money to spend but I feel since I started the remake on December the 14th I have made headway and still on target of a 3 month makeover doing it after work and when and if I get enough time on the weekends.

 

 

 

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Found panel steel in the back shed :)

IMG_29871024x768_zpsf9944cf1.jpg

 

Bit of cutting and welding

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Some new engine mounts

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Using the Altezz gearbox x-member and making mounts to suit

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Took ages of mucking around to fit the seat including raising the steering wheel 40mm and now I can get into the seat without taking the wheel off as when they built the dash they made it too low! I will fix this later. I actually removed all the frame from underneath that previous people had done and and the bodgey bolts on various angles.

 

Once all this is done then the engine need wired.... this is a mission on its own as the engine is fairly high tech and with Dual VVT-i and electronic Throttle Body I may have some fun. The Diff needs replacing and the suspension needs raising. The driveshaft needs shortening, radiator fitted, exhaust made,  An  heap more :)

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Angled the handbrake beside the gear lever

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The tunnel was weakened so I spen a bit of attention adding strength back into this area

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#2 _datpsi_

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 08:37 PM

Few ip guys running these with turbo motors.. stupid fast..

#3 _datpsi_

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 08:39 PM



#4 Heath

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 09:43 PM

KP61 + Beams... holy shit!

This is good.

#5 SA EH

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 10:22 PM

That is seriously fast! Just could not stop watching that for one second.
That's kinda like sitting at the rear of the grid in Gran Turismo with a 2000hp skyline or something... Awesome!!!

But reminded me a bit of Brocky's first beast, the Austin A30.

Can't wait to see this.

Edited by SA EH, 05 January 2015 - 10:23 PM.


#6 _NZ Toranaman_

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Posted 06 January 2015 - 03:47 AM

Thanks for the comments, man thats a quick wee KP

I wish mine would be as good as that one but I would imagine my whole car is possibly worth as much as the gearbox he's running :)

I intend to have some fun but I am also going to be sorting out all the issues with it as well. I chose the N/A engine as I didn't want to have a battle with heat while sorting out the rest of the car.

First I have to get it fired up as they reckon its easy to start them but it if the sensors in error allow it to run well on the factory computer.

 

The brakes although ok for a little 1200cc 4K will be pushed beyond the limits with the heavier Beams and 6-speed. I also need to get the suspension back up 30-40mm with new springs that haven't been cut and then to accept bigger brakes I will likely need to go with bigger wheels. the locked diff has to go in favour of a LSD,

And If i have got all the handling sorted then the engine would be next.



#7 orangeLJ

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Posted 31 January 2015 - 06:55 AM

Love it!

#8 _NZ Toranaman_

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Posted 22 July 2015 - 05:45 PM

Big Progress on this beast but ran into some issues so decided to pull and remodel the entire back end.

Fuel, tank and diff is completely out.

 

I cut down an estima diff and I am in the process of mounting it before I put in a fuel Cell.

 

I have test driven it and found I had too much flex causing the front of the diff to hit underneath, this and the small universal caused me to go stronger.

The Estima will get an Altezza LSD and Nissan rear brakes which will make this Altezza engine, box and diff, Nissan front and rear brakes in a Starlet shell.

I have also got myself a 2.0 Nissan Skyline manual everyday driver that came with 16's all round and picked up a set of 17's which go with the 15's all with Starlet stud pattern so have plenty of choice on sizes.

 

I hope to finish the wiring over the next couple of weeks as well.

I had to sort out a couple of other cars but now back and focused on this.

IMG_0075%201024x679_zpsdchmgwlg.jpg

 

IMG_9517%201024x683_zpsz2rx15ux.jpg



#9 _NZ Toranaman_

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Posted 27 July 2015 - 04:30 AM

I finished the bottom diff mounts and the spring brackets on the diff today.

Next is to remount it and work out where to put the panhard rod and then the top mount, both will be adjustable. and if I have done my backyard calculations I won't need to make the bottom arms adjustable.

 

Once that is done I then mount the brakes which need some minor alterations to the axle mounting plate as its about 2mm too big.

The caliper mounts are fairly straight forward, cut bend weld and maybe space. BTW the rear brakes are off a BW78 from a  R31 Nissan which ran the 78 diff and 3.9 ratio.

 

The Rear flares I will likely need to alter slightly as I have made the diff maximum width and I also may need to alter the rear tunnel by either bashing clearance or widening it at the very back.

 

Then after that its a 2-piece driveshaft, hoops, fuel cell, pump etc and wire it then a big tidy up and double check all the nuts and bolts and welds.

 

IMG_0636%201280x853_zpsribpteus.jpgIMG_0634%201280x853_zps5dnfm4uq.jpgIMG_0632%201280x853_zpsf1daepls.jpg



#10 SA EH

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Posted 27 July 2015 - 10:19 PM

Great to see it coming along Graham, that's definitely going to be a pretty light car too.

What's the reason for the two piece tail shaft? - as opposed to a single.

#11 _NZ Toranaman_

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Posted 28 July 2015 - 09:51 AM

Great to see it coming along Graham, that's definitely going to be a pretty light car too.

What's the reason for the two piece tail shaft? - as opposed to a single.

Cheers, it feels like I am getting close.

I am aiming for it to run by October, not much work to do really but it is slow going for other reasons.

Toyota recommendation that anything that revs over 7000rpm and is longer than 1 metre is a 2 piece tail shaft because they can cause premature universal failure 



#12 SA EH

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Posted 28 July 2015 - 08:16 PM

Ok cool I was wondering if it was based on your application or if the gearbox didn't have a slip yoke.
But I guess you can't argue with a recommendation from Toyota.

Cheers

#13 SA EH

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Posted 28 July 2015 - 08:16 PM

Edit.
Double post

Edited by SA EH, 28 July 2015 - 08:17 PM.


#14 _NZ Toranaman_

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Posted 03 August 2015 - 04:19 AM

I have heard of several failures on the track and it was put down to this exact cause. One happened at high speed too and is on youtube Well, I got some more done this weekend. Panhard rod made adjustable and mounts made. I welded a small plate on the chassis rail then used a narrowed LC Torana rear arm on a slight angle, I will add another plate on the open face just in case their is any flex. The panhard rod itself is large diameter. The adjustment is supplied by 3 nuts welded together with anther used to lock it to remove the slight movement.. The rear discs now fit both sides and i have modified 1 caliper mount to fit so only have the other to do and they need a couple of washers to space them . I will likely buy some new rotors and pads before race day Once I have finished I will remove the diff again and tidy up, grind and paint and add some strength welds where I decide. This is stage 1, later I will likely go coilovers (Which I have) and Watts Linkage but I wanted to make sure this all works ok first. IMG_0652%201280x853_zpssbga1ffu.jpgIMG_0655%201280x853_zpsx2ukushx.jpgIMG_20150801_120500%201280x959_zpsaikjks


Edited by NZ Toranaman, 03 August 2015 - 04:26 AM.


#15 _NZ Toranaman_

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Posted 16 December 2015 - 06:12 PM

I am doing the final tidy an adjustments, it's all wired and working as it should.

I hooked up the oil gauge last night.

I finally found the springs I wanted at the local dump shop for $3 each, I was tempted to pay $120 a couple of weeks back for some, so pleased now!

I have finished tidying the inside since this video and painted it.

New set of belts arrived and I have fully enclosed the fuel cell and pump etc.

 

 

 

 

Nice oil pressure, I am told it runs this as the Dual VVTI is run by oil pressure, It should run around around 90-100psi when warm.


Edited by NZ Toranaman, 16 December 2015 - 06:13 PM.





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