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Red 202 lower thermostat housing without heater lines

coolingLH 202 Thermostat heater

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#1 _jeppo_

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Posted 06 January 2015 - 08:26 AM

I've recently installed a set of triple Webers onto my LH SLR3300 Torana but had to remove the original heater box to get them to fit. As I no longer have a heater I have no need for the heater lines running from the lower thermostat housing. As a temporary work-around I have just put a loop of heater line between the 2 outlets on the housing. Does anyone know if there is a suitable lower thermostat housing without heater outlets out there to purchase? or any other suggestions?

 

Thanks. 



#2 basicgreen

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Posted 06 January 2015 - 10:57 AM

hi i bought a new one with heater out lets $120 not cheep. i then took to my engine man and he welded up the holes and then i put the cups on them that way no chance it would leek. but you could cut down the tube bits and get welded up might be a way of doing it 



#3 wot179

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Posted 06 January 2015 - 12:26 PM

There is this type but Im pretty sure they only fit the early 149 heads.

2015-01-06132105.jpg

2015-01-06132125.jpg

#4 rexy

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Posted 06 January 2015 - 12:48 PM

There are rubber blanking caps available from autobarn, repco etc.i have used these on my LS in the L J.
Or you can insert an appropriate sized standard bolt or hex drive bolt (neater looking) into the outlet with some sealant. This was how it was done on an engine I bought. It never leaked.
Either method should cost you well less than $10.

#5 _duggan208_

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Posted 07 January 2015 - 12:13 AM

That bolt pattern is wrong for a red motor. Is that of a gray motor. You could try tapping them and fitting brass plugs.

Regards



#6 S pack

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Posted 07 January 2015 - 12:41 AM


 

There is this type but Im pretty sure they only fit the early 149 heads.

2015-01-06132105.jpg

2015-01-06132125.jpg

I'm sure the early red 149/179 housing will bolt up to the later red heads. Just have to plug two unused holes in the end of the head.


Edited by S pack, 07 January 2015 - 12:41 AM.


#7 wot179

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Posted 07 January 2015 - 07:28 AM

Duggan, early 149 red heads used these housings.

Correct, Dave. Gotta plug 2 holes to use them on later heads.

#8 _jeppo_

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Posted 07 January 2015 - 07:36 AM

Thanks guys. 

Think I'll go down and get the rubber blanking plates and give them a try.

I've got a spare lower thermostat housing so I might try and weld it up and see how it looks. (I'll post some pics if i get it done).

 

Thanks again.



#9 wot179

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Posted 07 January 2015 - 07:43 AM

A pic for those wondering.

2015-01-07082433.jpg

#10 basicgreen

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Posted 07 January 2015 - 03:36 PM

hi again dont think you can weld the old ones they are cast the new ones are alloy and can be welded. i welded mine to make sure that the rubber things did not come of just to make sure 



#11 wot179

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Posted 07 January 2015 - 03:44 PM

You can weld them up with cast iron rods using a stick welder

Just be sure that the surface is prepped well.


Edited by wot179, 07 January 2015 - 03:44 PM.


#12 basicgreen

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Posted 07 January 2015 - 03:47 PM

i stand corrected 



#13 71Ranger

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Posted 07 January 2015 - 05:34 PM

Hi Duncan,

 

Take a look at this thread and look at the third image down that was posted on the 18th of March. 


http://www.gmh-toran...1-heater-hoses/

 

If this is the look you are after then try this

Buy:

1 7/16 UNC tap

1 9.4 mm drill

2 1 inch 7/16 bolts

1 10ml bottle of Loctite 263

2 5/8 rubber blanking plugs

2 Hose Clamps to suit - if you want you can use the blanking plugs and clamps from Rare's

 

Drill tap and loctite the 2 bolts in - fit blanking plugs - will never leak and looks pretty good, (its what I did for my LC)

 

Cheers Brian



#14 EunUCh

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Posted 07 January 2015 - 05:59 PM

As already mentioned,drill,tap,grub screws,thin smear of sealant on threads (cheap arse 5 min araldite),cap if you want.



#15 S pack

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Posted 07 January 2015 - 06:57 PM

You can weld them up with cast iron rods using a stick welder

Just be sure that the surface is prepped well.

Alternatively you can bronze up the holes with an oxy.


Edited by S pack, 07 January 2015 - 06:58 PM.


#16 kiwi-lilj

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Posted 07 January 2015 - 07:19 PM

Alternatively you can bronze up the holes with an oxy.


Alternatively you can chip all the flux off of the cast arc rod and then use it with a Tig.

#17 _duggan208_

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Posted 07 January 2015 - 11:23 PM

Well there you go, learn something new every day. The early 149 pic bolted on the head brings every thing into perspective.

Regards.



#18 Dr Terry

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 03:40 PM

The 2-bolt lower housing was fitted to ALL 149 & 179 engines, not just early ones. The 2 hoses weren't required because the inlet manifold was not water heated, it was heated by the exhaust.

 

As you can see in the pics, the housing is held by only 2 bolts. The lower right threaded hole is present in the 149/179 heads, but not used.

 

The water hole that you can see on the lower left is not present on 149/179 heads. If you fit one of these old heads to 161/186 & later motors, it needs to be drilled.

 

If you want to use the 2-bolt housing on a later head, just tap out the water hole & fit a hex grub screw (with sealant) & that's it, no welding required.

 

Dr Terry



#19 _deantl2003_

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 10:29 PM

here is photo of mine, which is very similar to yours.. 

Attached Files

  • Attached File  010.JPG   48.04K   9 downloads


#20 _cabby_

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Posted 05 August 2018 - 10:47 AM

Hi All,

I know this thread is old so sorry for reigniting.

 

I have just bought the Rare Spares lower thermostat housing https://www.rarespar...lower-base-6cyl and put it on my LC with 186.

 

It doesn't run a heater. I have blanked off the two outlets on the right hand side of the housing looking from the front with rubber plugs and clamps but I am having trouble with the threaded outlet on the left hand side, I put a bolt in that I thought fit and put thread sealant on the thread but when I started it up again she leaked out of the threat reasonably badly.

 

Can anyone tell me the correct bolt/thread side for the left hand side so I can blank it off or if someone sells an aftermarket blanking bolt.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Chris



#21 S pack

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Posted 05 August 2018 - 11:31 AM

Chris,

 

AFAIK, the original thread size in the thermostat housing should be 1/2" BSP.

You should be in need of a 1/2" BSPT hex head brass plug which you will find at any Plumbing Supplies or dare I say it, Bunnings, in their plumbing section.



#22 _cabby_

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Posted 05 August 2018 - 04:38 PM

Thanks S Pack,

 

I have just picked up a 1/2 BSP plug from Repco, I will give it a go.

 

Cheers

 

Chris



#23 grumpy xu1

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Posted 05 August 2018 - 06:32 PM

You'd call it a grub screw in automotive terms & if you have done the 1 on the drivers side, tap the housing & fit 2 on the passenger side rather than worrying about the rubber plugs failing & they definitely do ! Gary.

#24 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 04:33 AM

Am i right to say if you use an U piece of hose not
restricting flow for the manifold outlet inlet on
thermostat housing helps in the event of the thermostat
failure... the water can still circulate..

#25 I'm a Red Motor fiend

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 06:34 AM

Maz, both are below the thermostat so no.





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