38 replies to this topic

[Dr Terry]

The correct thread is 1/2" NPT, not BSP. I stock these as Raceworks part no. RWF-932-08BK, it is an Allen ket grub screw style plug.

 

A BSP plug is close, but not close enough, I've seen housings split open from people over tightening a BSP plug into those holes, attempting to stop the leak.

 

Also to block off those manifold hose ports, use an early Commodore bypass hose Mackay part no. CH1170. This hose is U-shaped & works well to act as a bypass hose.

 

Dr Terry

[madtoranajzedded]

Maz, both are below the thermostat so no.

Boiling water can still pass through via the cast water
neckback into the small round hole in head down into
block and back into the water pump..

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 08 August 2018 - 03:21 PM.

[grumpy xu1]

& obviously buy a npt tap to cut the thread, as Dr Terry has pointed out!

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

If the thermostat fails to open your motor will cook regardless I would have thought.

[S pack]

If the thermostat fails to open your motor will cook regardless I would have thought.

[madtoranajzedded]

I reckon so mate,but water can still pass,

[S pack]

Update: One of the Champion 1/2 inch BSP plug from Repco with thread sealant did the trick.

 

Gary - you were right though, as soon as I put any revs on the engine one of the rubber plugs on the passenger side blew off, coolant everywhere. So now I will neet to find a 1/4 inch BSPT tap and tap a thread in the two passenger side outlets (or run a U hose).

 

Chris

For those two hose spigots you will probably be better to use a BSPP tap to cut a parallel female thread and use a stainless steel or brass male BSPP allen key grub screw as a plug rather than tapered fittings that are more likely to crack the casting.

The rubber caps should have done the job. I remember running the rubber caps on mine for a few months until I got around to pulling the heater out to replace the leaking core.

[orangeLJ]

Oxy set.
Brazing rod.

Cut, sand, braze, sand, paint. Done.

I'll see if I can find some pictures, but I cut the outlets flush and brazed them up. After some shaping, you'd never know they were there

[EunUCh]

Could always use the thermostat set  up off a blue or black 6 [VC,VH,VK] , they are a 2 piece alloy job with no outlets on passenger side , would just need one short section of heater pipe to link the housing to the water pump or leave them plugged.

 

Have just been having fun with a similar thing and ended up using the original cast iron set up and found that on the later reds they just used a "u" tube on

the 2 outlets on the housing that originally went to intake manifold / heater on earlier models that did not have exhaust heated intake manifold.

A bit of a close look at the way it works looks like that the "U" tube should be fitted if using that style housing , looks like it is there for some sort of circulation

reason or else they would not have used a "U" tube ? but having said that there is probably plenty that run just fine with both those holes plugged.

 

 

 

 

 

[jd lj]

I remember going to look at a LC GTR for sale twenty something years ago which had a very technical solution for this. He'd used a short section of heater hose, shoved an old spark plug in each one and put a hose clamp around it. Job done.

I didn't buy that GTR either by the way as it was too rusty.

[RallyRed]

I didn't buy that GTR either by the way as it was too rusty.[/quote]

lol..as opposed to stupid me. I DID buy a LJ GTR back around 1998. Very original,young lady owner. Silver with blue interior. Rusty as hell..once I had a fair dinkum look. It was to be my XU2 project...but moved it on instead. Too bad.