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mal wood hydraulic clutch pedal


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#1 _AquaSLR5000_

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 03:34 PM

Im finally working on my car and I am fitting the mal wood hydraulic clutch pedal which hasn't come with any instructions. my issue is actually bolting it into place. it appears that one of the bolts supplied with the kit fits into a rather large pressed hole under the dash, which allows up down movement to the whole assembly. Even when tightened into place eventually it has to move. Am I missing something



#2 BIG KEV

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 03:45 PM

Ring Mal and let him know your problem
I was thinking about buying one of these next week ....let us know how you go ....thanks

#3 _AquaSLR5000_

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 04:15 PM

Good idea Big Kev, I rang him and he sent some pics thru straight away! Sorted for now. It will be a couple of months before I know how good this set up is but the installation is quite easy.



#4 LS1LX

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 06:43 PM

There junk just fitted one for a customer, wouldn't recommend

#5 BIG KEV

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Posted 15 March 2015 - 07:48 PM

Why do you say that ?

#6 LS1LX

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 01:18 PM

For the price you pay you expect it to bolt straight up, without having to spend a few hours modifying to work

#7 neglectedtorana

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 04:10 PM

Mine is not tested but fits in and lines up with the brake pedal, will be a while before I get to bleed and test it.

#8 BENN0

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Posted 20 March 2015 - 10:39 AM

I have not used mine, but had no problems with fitment.

Fiddly to install, but more of an issue relating to access than the design of the pedal assembly. 



#9 AGREV8

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 01:28 AM

Hello, I am currently having troubles with fitting one of these too, could you send me the photos that mal wood sent you or post them here?

Thanks

#10 myss427

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 08:20 AM

I have one and works fine, but yes the holes it bolts too are bigger than the bolts. Can move in the holes if not tight. Should have bigger bolts, would need to modify the assembly to do so, if putting in and the heater box is out, I would drill through the mounting area into the assembly (in a clean area) and run another bolt closer in size to the hole to take away the movement.  



#11 BENN0

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Posted 02 March 2021 - 08:46 PM

I have not used mine, but had no problems with fitment.
Fiddly to install, but more of an issue relating to access than the design of the pedal assembly. 


Update on this: While the pedal assembly installed ok, it’s sitting too far forward. The pedal hits the floor before the clutch is disengaged. Pulled it as far rearward in car position as I could, and still no luck.

#12 Lima31

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Posted 03 March 2021 - 12:34 AM

Have you correctly shimmed the slave cylinder or was it working OK before?  If not there should be some spacers and some measuring to do before you bolt up the gearbox.



#13 myss427

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Posted 03 March 2021 - 08:38 AM

Update on this: While the pedal assembly installed ok, it’s sitting too far forward. The pedal hits the floor before the clutch is disengaged. Pulled it as far rearward in car position as I could, and still no luck.

 

I think that's how they are, mine will touch the floor with full pedal but has enough clutch to work fine, you do get use to it. I think changing the pedal location or arc would be better, having the pedal slightly higher than the brake pedal would be much better idea?



#14 BENN0

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Posted 03 March 2021 - 08:56 AM

Have you correctly shimmed the slave cylinder or was it working OK before?  If not there should be some spacers and some measuring to do before you bolt up the gearbox.

No shims installed.

New standard slave, exedy clutch and flywheel. 

Possibly the problem?



#15 myss427

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Posted 03 March 2021 - 12:46 PM

I run a standard T56 LS style throw out bearing with great feel and use.



#16 Lima31

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Posted 03 March 2021 - 03:38 PM

No shims installed.
New standard slave, exedy clutch and flywheel.
Possibly the problem?

Possibly, i had the same issue with a different aftermarket combo and I needed to add these shims between the slave and the gearbox. Unless your setup already has the slave in the right position. Just a suggestion.

#17 BENN0

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Posted 03 March 2021 - 03:54 PM

Possibly, i had the same issue with a different aftermarket combo and I needed to add these shims between the slave and the gearbox. Unless your setup already has the slave in the right position. Just a suggestion.

Its a good suggestion. The pedal is bled and the bite point is still at the floor. The slave cylinder needs to "move" move to disengage the clutch. If the mastercylinder is giving it all it's got, then I must move the slave toward the clutch. 

I dont like it (gearbox out......) but unfortuantely it makes sense!

Where did you get your shims from? Ive seen a few sets available out of the states, but I want to get it done this weekend.



#18 gtrboyy

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Posted 03 March 2021 - 07:18 PM

Starter relocation kits could be reason for awkward pedal feel so measuring is required to see if need shims or not.


Edited by gtrboyy, 03 March 2021 - 07:20 PM.


#19 BENN0

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Posted 07 March 2021 - 05:32 PM

I’m not running a starter relocation kit. Everything is setup as per a stock LS1 vehicle.

Gearbox came out, measured up the slave and measured up a 4mm gap. I had another slave that had an alternate bearing that effectively
closed up the gap by 1mm. 3mm clearance now.
Put it all back together and it is marginally better. It won’t try and move when started in gear with the clutch pressed in, but still doesn’t like going into gear when running and will not go into reverse when running.
Time for the pedal to come out and go back for a check up.....

#20 axistr

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Posted 07 March 2021 - 06:54 PM

I have a T56 Magnum in my SLR. Holden 5lt engine. I fitted a under dash clutch master cylinder from a BF Henry. Pedal assembly fitted very easy only had to drill one hole to get it to fit. I extend the pedal to make it level with the original Torana brake pedal. I also used a commodore concentric slave cylinder. They are designed to run against the pressure plate at all times and the integrated spring keeps it there so there is no slack in the take up. You need to ensure you check the gap between the pressure plate fingers and the thrust bearing when its pushed back towards the gearbox. I can't remember the correct gap but its important to allow for clutch plate ware over time. Take a measurement from the block bellhousing face to pressure plate fingers with the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch plate fitted. Then with the thrust bearing fitted push it back towards the gearbox and measure the distance between the bellhousing bolt up to block face and bearing set back distance. Subtract the pressure plate measurement and this should give you the thrust bearing to pressure plate gap. I would be looking at around a 10-12mm gap. If not adding or removing the shims between the concentric bearing assemble and gearbox front input shaft cover will be needed.

 

I can push my pedal 1/4 of the way down and the clutch is completely disengaged. The most common problem I see with clutches not disengaging correctly is caused by runout in the clutch plate or high spots on lining faces. Or the pressure plate does not pull square off the clutch plate when disengaging. In rare instances you can load and slip the clutch a few times to try and quickly ware the high spots off, but don't get it to hot or you will bugger the clutch and pressure plate. With 10mm thrust bearing travel the clutch plate should be completely free of the pressure plate and spin freely. If not you have a problem. The company I buy my clutches off over the past twenty years always grab the new clutch off the shelf and set it up on their test rig. It's very common they have to straighten the clutch plate to correct runout. Either bad manufacturing or been dropped and kicked around in transit don't know. Either way I have only had to remove one new clutch since using this company over the past twenty years. 

 

I would start by putting the transmission in 3rd gear and park brake firmly applied, add and increase throttle to stop stalling. load the clutch by releasing the the pedal slower than normal. If the clutch slip all the way up till the pedal is almost released then stalls the engine this shows you have to much pedal travel to get the clutch to release. If the hydraulics have been correctly bleed and working correctly it's a faulty clutch.           



#21 BENN0

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Posted 14 April 2021 - 08:16 AM

Turns out I needed to modify the pedal to make it work.

I had 15-18mm of master cylinder travel as the pedal was up against the floor. Cut and shut the pedal to give me some more travel and it was all sorted (AFTER I pulled the motor/gearbox and swapped in a brand new clutch/flywheel with no change.....)



#22 Belly68

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Posted 14 April 2021 - 11:25 AM

I am reading with interest, my mechanic and I are in the process of fitting the Mal Wood conversion to my LH.   308/M21.   Just taken the trimatic out, measuring up as we speak.



#23 Belly68

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Posted 05 May 2021 - 04:29 PM

Well the clutch assembly is in!   The difference it has made to car is unbelievable.

Yes there was some messing around mainly with the bolt holes and then the steering column and the ignition switch.   (Had  2 hours of filing the assembly to allow the column to go back into it's correct spot.)   All worthwhile in my opinion.)

 

When I get the car back I will post some photos.






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