23 replies to this topic

[SmacT]

G'day all,

 

I have my bonnet scoop self tappered to my bonnet and are looking around for ways to permanently mount it. I would prefer stainless allen cap bolts, but am having trouble locating self tapping versions of the bolt for the front two holes (that need self tappers).

 

Just wondering what other people have used and, most importantly, where they got them from. My local bolt shop looked at me like a crazy man when I requested allen head self tappers in stainless.

 

Also, I know Rares does an original spec kits, however I am after the stainless bolt version to match my flare bolts. Open to suggestions, however.:-) 

[axistr]

G'day Sam, if you going to paint your bonnet and scoop black I recon the bolts look better black also and don't stand out to much (just my opinion). I drilled through the bonnet brace and fitted longer bolts with nyloc nut on all so they stay snug and don't distort the scoop, bonnet or bonnet brace.  

 

 

Attached Files

•  IMG_20150119_150849_474.jpg   210.63K   14 downloads

[76lxhatch]

Rivet nuts / nutserts are great for blind holes in sheet metal, you have to drill a larger hole but then you can thread in a machine screw. Make sure you get the flush mount ones

[hatchssv8]

What 76lxhatch suggested

 

Thats what I a m doing.......dome head in-hex screws with nutsert

[SmacT]

Ok, cool, thanks fellas. Problem is the bonnet is in high fill and not wanting to go there with nutserts if I don't have to. Good idea though, will weigh it up.

Axistr, I agree on bolt colour, but my bonnet won't be black. At this stage anyway. :-) so your bolts don't foul on anything? Might be the way to go. I don't like the thought of self tappers holding on bodywork.

[SmacT]

Mmmm - I was thinking "welding" for nutserts, but it's screw-in, yes? And just drilling a larger hole? Ok, will have to see hopw I can hunt up a nutsert gun for two holes. Or go Axistr's method.

[76lxhatch]

Yes you just drill a hole and install, no welding. The outer is splined and they compress much like pop rivets. Might be able to hire the gun? They are not all that expensive to buy for the small sizes (mine does 2,3,4,6mm threads I think? I use 6mm for the flares but you probably only need 3mm on the bonnet scoop), anything bigger gets a bit hard to do by hand

edit: and you won't stop at two ;-)

Edited by 76lxhatch, 16 April 2015 - 07:25 PM.

[hatchssv8]

For reference.......

 

I did flares with 8mm.......flush mount nutserts

 

Go to a bolt shop and get yourself a selection of screws.........select the one which has the head size you like.....that will determine what size nutserts (again flush mount) you need. oh, and do all of them on the scoop

 

PS: I used zinc plated steel nutserts.....not the aluminium type

 

My 2 cents 

[SmacT]

Yeah good call. A decent nutsert gun with a range of nutserts etc seem to be available for $80 or so. I'll do more research. Like 76lxHatch says, I'll probably end up using it everywhere...

 

I have the original bolt kit the Wilsons Flares came with, but I was only planning on using them for fit up, then replacing with stainless alround.

 

Thanks all, been a big help as usual. I'll let you know how I go. 

[Struggler]

Or just drill a hole through the brace from underneath that allows you to fit and tighten a nut.... about 16-20mm should do. 

 

Drill a pilot hole from the self tapper hole on top.

 

Use a hole saw.

 

JMHO

[76lxhatch]

Now that's using your noggin, will need a minor paint touch up from underneath but nothing that can't be done with a brush and a couple of spare minutes

[axistr]

I would be very carful using the nutserts on the bonnet, it is very easy when using the insert tool to distort the thin metal on the bonnet, you may get a ripple in the skin. You might also see the edge of the nutsert due to the holes being very close to the edge of the bonnet scoop. Much easier to drill all the way through and put a nyloc nut on the bolt and they will look the same as all the other bolts.

 

I have the tool Sam if you need a loan of one, but I found some of my mechanics slightly distorted the door skins when they fitted them to secure truck mirrors over the years.

[SmacT]

All good advice guys - thanks. If your mechanics rippled something, Len, then I would for sure. Good point on seeing the nutsert too. My bonnet is the straightest bit of metal on my car, so I'd prefer to leave it that way! :-) I'll put up what I end up doing, and will either go all the way through, or your method Struggler, maybe with some rubber plugs in the holes? I'd hate to lose a washer or something in the bonnet brace though (something I would do)...  

 

Thanks for the offer of the tool loan Len, appreciated. Went for a wicked trailride last weekend in the Blue Mountains. Amazing stuff out there. 

[mick_in_oz]

A few things with nutserts. If you pull them up tight they will distort the panel, best bet is to do a practice run on some scrap. People like to pull them up tight in the hope they will not spin in the panel later, but an option here is to get a small triangle or square file and put a small nick or two in the edge of the hole you have drilled and then when the nutsert in fitted it will expand into the nicks you added and it will resist turning, without the need to muscle them and risking distortion. 

[StephenSLR]

I drilled through the bonnet brace and fitted longer bolts with nyloc nut on all so they stay snug and don't distort the scoop, bonnet or bonnet brace.  

 

I have bolts at the front, they don't go all the way through but leave a little gap between piping and bonnet.

 

I'm curious; how does rain water get out if it's snug against the bonnet?

 

Personally I like the original look of the self tappers, it's more streamlined.

 

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 26 April 2015 - 05:26 PM.

[mick_in_oz]

Want more streamlined, used Button Head Screws.

Edited by mick_in_oz, 27 April 2015 - 11:20 PM.

[StephenSLR]

A few things with nutserts. If you pull them up tight they will distort the panel

 

Could it be the technique or tools used that distorts the panel?

 

https://www.youtube....aMsvai0FA#t=103

 

s

[StephenSLR]

nutserts (again flush mount) you need. oh, and do all of them on the scoop

 

Do you mean; have the scoop in position on bonnet and clamp down the nutsert to attach bonnet skin and scoop permanently?

Similar to rivetting two pieces of metal together?

 

s

[76lxhatch]

^ I think he just meant to put in rivet nuts for all the bolts/screws rather than just the ones that needed fixing

Could it be the technique or tools used that distorts the panel?

Yes. Installed with care there should not be any issue

[hatchssv8]

Look at the different types available in this pic

 

 

https://www.google.c...rts.php;670;816

 

 

Hope this explains what I meant by 'flush' mount

Edited by hatchssv8, 28 April 2015 - 04:48 PM.

[StephenSLR]

Hope this explains what I meant by 'flush' mount

 

Yep, they have countersunk ones.

 

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 28 April 2015 - 05:06 PM.

[76lxhatch]

^ The flush mount ones I use have a smaller "head" also, its enough that it would never pull through the sheet metal but not much more. You can actually get them to blend into the panel.

Possibly the comments about warping panels may refer to the bigger countersunk ones, that might cause it to pucker

[hatchssv8]

Another thing I did in preparation before I fastened the nutsert to the panel is to debur the drilled hole and paint the exposed metal. If you are really keen,  smear the nutsert with seamsealer, upon fastening to panel, the excess will be squeezed out, and you are 99% safe that it wont rust.