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Holden 202 fuel pump block off use

Started by Stedz_lc , Apr 27 2015 12:00 AM

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16 replies to this topic

#1 Stedz_lc

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Posted 27 April 2015 - 12:00 AM

So here's a question for
You guys, have a fuel pump block off plate with -6 fitting
In it do I A - run a return off bottom of catch can (this can lead to moisture gettin in ( drain your catch can there's always some water/condensation/moisture
B- run a drain from front/middle of rocker cover to drain oil if they start to fill
C- fit to top of catch can for another breather
Go!!

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#2 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 27 April 2015 - 07:14 AM

Putba baffle behind it and run it to the top of the catch can.

Probably want bigger -8 or -10 though.

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#3 SA EH

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Posted 27 April 2015 - 08:18 AM

^This.
I ran mine as a drain from the catch can with no dramas but if I had a custom tank, would run it at the top. And -10.

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#4 Stedz_lc

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Posted 27 April 2015 - 09:04 AM

Ok, it might be even -8 il check but even -6 with two -10s off the rocker cover surely that's plenty of breathing!
If I put a y piece into either both rocker cover and jump to -12 or the -6 in to a y into one dash 10 surely this will be ok
And yea catch can is being made

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#5 SA EH

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Posted 27 April 2015 - 02:28 PM

The bigger the better from the lower crankcase area, that's the spot that helps out the most. You have oil coming back down the pushrod holes fighting against the crankcase gasses going back up, that ultimately can't get out.
I also have a drain off the back of the rocker cover plus the two breathers on top.

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#6 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 30 April 2015 - 08:26 AM

Never ever underestimate the effect of windage and oil fling from the crank when selecting vent points. I think the fuel pump pad is a very poor choice for a vent for this reason, though oddly enough it's an ideal spot for a fuel pump.

Some years ago I was called to check out a Cummins that kept spitting out the dipstick. This wasn't a little automotive dipstick but one of those bigger ones with the expanding rubber bungs at the end. It went into a short dipstick/filler tube on the RHS of the engine, right alongside the crank. You could tighten the rubber packer so tightly that you couldn't pull the dipstick by hand yet it still would push it out after running at full speed for some time. The engine was in good condition with no significant blowby and the vents were clear and open.

The clue was in what happened after it popped out the stick. From time to time, maybe a couple of times and hour, it would send a dollop of oil out the tube, not just a couple of feet but damn near into orbit. It'd only do this at full speed. So I switched the tube over to the LH side and that was the end of the problem.

The same thing happens with 202s. If the fuel pump or its mount is poorly sealed you can drive around town for months and it won't leak. But give it an hour at 3500 on the highway and it'll rustproof the entire underbody.

If you really want the engine vented properly it should be on the left side of the block or sump, in line with a main bearing and sloping down sharply. This way it doesn't affect drainback and you won't need elaborate baffling to control the oil being hurled from the crank. Leave the fuel pump pad for the fuel pump.

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#7 _rich243_

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Posted 30 April 2015 - 10:03 AM

OJ, What was that oil scavange tube idea i remeber reading about you have done where it hooks up to the exhaust and draws the engine pressure out? Have you used this much to good effect?

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#8 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 30 April 2015 - 10:19 AM

OJ, What was that oil scavange tube idea i remeber reading about you have done where it hooks up to the exhaust and draws the engine pressure out? Have you used this much to good effect?

It's just a glorified vac-u-pan setup with the pickup downstream of the muffler. The other end is baffled where it connects to one of the sidecovers. It works fine but it's ugly and I'd much rather have it draw from the LH side, close to one of the mains where it's unlikely to collect oil. I'll change it one day. Spring loaded check valves connected to the rocker box create a bit of vacuum and provide a pressure relief if it's ever needed.

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#9 _rich243_

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Posted 30 April 2015 - 11:18 AM

How about something like this, ive used these high speed air valves before on moto engines and they work well.

http://www.rv7blog.c...-oil-separator/

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#10 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 30 April 2015 - 12:00 PM

How about something like this, ive used these high speed air valves before on moto engines and they work well.

http://www.rv7blog.c...-oil-separator/

There's nothing special about them, they're just a can in which the inlet enters at a tangent to help throw the oil mist out onto the wall. This is pretty standard practice with any separator or catch can. I think if you put a little effort into locating the air inlets and outlets on the engine then you won't need to use cans to catch the gunk.

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#11 _rich243_

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Posted 30 April 2015 - 12:09 PM

Yeah, I was more talking about the 1 way check valve/High speed valves he uses and how they are plumbed into the exhaust at an angle to create a vac effect. Could maybe work for rocker cover and crankcase venting

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#12 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 30 April 2015 - 12:28 PM

Yeah, I was more talking about the 1 way check valve/High speed valves he uses and how they are plumbed into the exhaust at an angle to create a vac effect. Could maybe work for rocker cover and crankcase venting

That's exactly what a vac-u-pan is. If your doing this on a street car those check valves cause too much of a pressure drop at lower rpms, you're better of using some tube to distance the checkvalve from the heat and using something like a York checkvalve with a weak spring.

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#13 SA EH

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Posted 30 April 2015 - 09:47 PM

This first pic is my drain back from the catch can, on the right side of the engine though, but still inline with a main bearing cap - pretty much where the original pick up point is. No real problem with the angle of entry as the attached line goes directly upward anyway.

The second shot is the drain from the rocker cover.

I wasn't too fussed about it being somewhat immersed in oil as its just a drain, not a breather. And has to be better than standard... Surely.....

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#14 _ljxu1torana_

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Posted 30 April 2015 - 10:08 PM

This first pic is my drain back from the catch can, on the right side of the engine though, but still inline with a main bearing cap - pretty much where the original pick up point is. No real problem with the angle of entry as the attached line goes directly upward anyway.

The second shot is the drain from the rocker cover.

I wasn't too fussed about it being somewhat immersed in oil as its just a drain, not a breather. And has to be better than standard... Surely.....

jonesy.i have a similar type fitting like your except mine is a oil drain from the turbo back into the sump.

i thought that catch cans are for engines with some blow by.