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Solid Lifter Questions

Started by _macdou_ , May 19 2015 07:59 PM

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16 replies to this topic

#1 _macdou_

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Posted 19 May 2015 - 07:59 PM

Just picked up a very warm 202 and it has a solid cam....just need some info on the brand of lifters.

Can anyone tell me the brand of solid lifter so I can check the manufactures lash settings.

I had a look at a crow and doesn't appear to be that type.

Cheers

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#2 S pack

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Posted 19 May 2015 - 08:13 PM

Ken, I doubt the brand of solid lifter will have any bearing on the valve lash settings. It's the camshaft you need the specs for.

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#3 warrenm

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Posted 20 May 2015 - 12:05 AM

Like S pack said, nothing to do with the lifter manufacturer, the cam grinder decides the clearance.

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#4 _macdou_

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Posted 20 May 2015 - 11:04 AM

Well not prepared to remove the cam so won't know the manufacture. What is the gap based on,

What's the most accurate way to measure lift etc

Edited by macdou, 20 May 2015 - 11:18 AM.

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#5 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 20 May 2015 - 11:17 AM

You bought a "very warm" engine without knowing the cam specks?

Hope it was cheap, cause its prolly gonna end up expensive.

Buy beg borrow or steel a degree wheel and dial guage

Cheers.

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#6 _macdou_

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Posted 20 May 2015 - 11:21 AM

You bought a "very warm" engine without knowing the cam specks?

Hope it was cheap, cause its prolly gonna end up expensive.

Buy beg borrow or steel a degree wheel and dial guage

Cheers.

The engine was passed thru two owners so cam specs are unknown by the seller. Advertised as "lumpy" and yes was a very good price :-)

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#7 warrenm

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Posted 20 May 2015 - 12:12 PM

If it is definitely a solid cam, the clearance will probably be somewhere between .015" .025", so to get the thing going I'd try .020" . The clearance can be used for tuning to make small changes.

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#8 _macdou_

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Posted 20 May 2015 - 12:35 PM

If it is definitely a solid cam, the clearance will probably be somewhere between .015" .025", so to get the thing going I'd try .020" . The clearance can be used for tuning to make small changes.

Thanks I will just check see what the current clearance is, 020" would be a good start.

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#9 _Smarty_

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Posted 28 May 2015 - 08:55 PM

I have run a few solid cams and 20" is a safe start until you know cam spec's.

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#10 _macdou_

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Posted 29 May 2015 - 02:14 PM

I measured the gaps the other day and they were between .012 and .015"

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#11 Uncle Chop Chop

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Posted 29 May 2015 - 08:00 PM

Most settings are measured hot.

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#12 warrenm

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Posted 30 May 2015 - 12:21 AM

If that's the case, I'd set them at .015" as a starting point.

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#13 N/A-PWR

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Posted 30 May 2015 - 12:56 AM

^+1

as a general, metal expands 1 thou for every inch, so 10 inch pushrod is 10 thou Hot.

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#14 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 30 May 2015 - 08:40 AM

^+1

as a general, metal expands 1 thou for every inch, so 10 inch pushrod is 10 thou Hot.

No, no, no, no.

For a start different metals expand at different rates, and then how hot is hot? As well, the pushrod might expand but then so does the block, head and valve.

For a cast iron block and cast iron head the difference between hot and cold clearance will be not much more than SFA.

And if we're only guessing at the clearance anyway it makes no sense at all to be worrying about whether it should be hot or cold. Pick a number and set it cold to avoid burning your pinkies.

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#15 _2ELCS_

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Posted 30 May 2015 - 10:16 AM

Makes sense...

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#16 N/A-PWR

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Posted 30 May 2015 - 12:56 PM

So the tappet clearance is just that Oldjohnno?

I assumed it was for when metal expanded.

Learn something every day.

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#17 warrenm

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Posted 31 May 2015 - 12:06 AM

I worked on Toyota's as an apprentice & the difference between a "hot" & "cold" clearance was only .001" or .002", too many moon's & too much beer,I can't remember the exact difference.