Probably covered before but what's the biggest Rim/Tyre combo have guys put on their Hatches that have been un flared and modified?
Any feedback would be appreciated.
cheers
Posted 22 May 2015 - 05:26 PM
Probably covered before but what's the biggest Rim/Tyre combo have guys put on their Hatches that have been un flared and modified?
Any feedback would be appreciated.
cheers
Posted 22 May 2015 - 06:58 PM
Posted 22 May 2015 - 07:36 PM
Edited by sunburst73-xu1, 22 May 2015 - 07:38 PM.
Posted 22 May 2015 - 07:42 PM
Posted 22 May 2015 - 07:49 PM
Posted 25 May 2015 - 10:07 PM
biggest I have seen is Ron uc hatch on here with 17x10's with a 3/8"bs under the rear with a shortened diff and relocating the shock mounting points on the diff so they sit vertical
I am going to try and get a 17x9,5 with a 4"bs under the rear of mine doing the above and ill massage the tub back to the chassis rail. This mod has been detailed in the forums before.
Fronts are prettly mush limited to a 7" wide wheel with 4.5 bs.
Posted 28 May 2015 - 08:56 PM
Posted 30 May 2015 - 07:05 PM
Cheers thanks, now that I have been thinking about it I might stay with 17 inch but go 9's on the back.
Posted 30 May 2015 - 07:22 PM
http://www.gmh-toran...er-parts/page-3
post 57 depicts what your going to have to do. Also above that is an idea for changing the shock mounting point.
Posted 31 May 2015 - 08:07 AM
Cheers thanks for that, doing that shock mod will kill 2 birds with the one stone for me as I'm doing the commodore rear disc brake conversion.
Posted 04 June 2015 - 05:48 PM
Posted 15 June 2015 - 12:46 AM
275/50/15 on my hatch no flares, just rolled guard lips and trimmed the inner guard and welded to the chassis rail.
pic i posted years back
and then to get the extra clearance from your shocks you need to cut the shielding off the piston/rod
still tight for room move the shock mounts inward
all this will depend on your wheel offset and ride height, I've got mine dumped to the lip of the rim and only rub slightly on cornering, but cannot get a finger in between the tyre and guard.
Hope this helps you out a bit.
Posted 23 June 2015 - 06:24 PM
Cheers thanks for the pics.
Posted 24 June 2015 - 07:26 AM
Hope this doesn't hijack the thread Dane'o....what rims/tyres do people think I could get away with unflared front, HZ spindles, original type SS front spoiler & wait...mudflaps? It appears that the spindles have pushed the front track wider than standard.
Posted 25 June 2015 - 10:43 PM
Hope this doesn't hijack the thread Dane'o....what rims/tyres do people think I could get away with unflared front, HZ spindles, original type SS front spoiler & wait...mudflaps? It appears that the spindles have pushed the front track wider than standard.
This is an easy fix if your running hz stubs. go to your local brake supplier and order a pair of UNDRILLED leyland P76 rotor's then have them drill the stud pattern to what ever wheel pattern you run e.g. hq,torana,commodore.
if they cannot drill for you, most machine shops can do this job for around $100
by running the P76 rotors they will bring your front wheel track in by 10mm.
Posted 25 June 2015 - 11:17 PM
by running the P76 rotors they will bring your front wheel track in by 10mm.
Just remember that this will affect your caliper to rim clearance, depending on your brake/wheel setup this may be a deal breaker?
Posted 26 June 2015 - 08:03 AM
Hmm yes. Thanks Andrew and Marc. I wasn't aware of the P76 option. I'm using 15" gts rims so not too sure about the clearance issues with these rims. I suppose I could also get the centres put into new rims at a suitable backspace...
Posted 26 June 2015 - 02:25 PM
~ not too sure about the clearance issues with these rims. ~
Simple really, just get yourself some Play-Doh, Plasticine or even modelling clay, remove the wheel and stick a nice thick layer to the caliper, then refit the wheel with only a couple of nuts.
Hopefully it will stick well enough to slowly rotate the rim and slice off any excess, then you just have to remove the wheel again and see what clearance you have? If you want to measure the clearance, dissect the Play-Doh at the thinnest point and measure the thickness.
If you have more than 5mm (10mm total divided by 2) then the P76 rotors may be an option?
Posted 19 September 2015 - 09:11 PM
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