some one finally pulled pulled their finger out and started on the wires ?
Terry's L31 SS Hatch
#26
Posted 18 July 2017 - 08:26 PM
#27
Posted 18 July 2017 - 09:56 PM
#28
Posted 18 July 2017 - 10:51 PM
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#29
Posted 19 July 2017 - 12:23 PM
Yeah baby. Love the SLR.....
#30
Posted 19 July 2017 - 07:25 PM
some one finally pulled pulled their finger out and started on the wires ?
Probably one of those hill billy yobbo's that is too busy drinking Great Northerns instead of working on wires...!
#31
Posted 01 October 2017 - 07:02 PM
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#32
Posted 01 October 2017 - 10:29 PM
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#33
Posted 12 December 2018 - 08:09 PM
I'm fitting a "Tuff T700 Gearbox" in my Hatch - has anyone used / installed a standard VN / VS Shifter ? If so,how did you go about it?
#34
Posted 04 February 2019 - 08:04 PM
It's taken awhile, but my 355 is finally in - many thanks to Brad Hanrahan for helping - Fitech Injected with "Built" T700 & 3.89 Tru-Trac 9".
Attached Files
#35
Posted 04 February 2019 - 10:53 PM
So the T700 fits into the standard tunnel???
#36
Posted 05 February 2019 - 06:01 PM
#37
Posted 06 February 2019 - 10:31 AM
Looking good Terry. Cheers Ron
#38
Posted 06 February 2019 - 04:39 PM
I plan to do the same method on my hatchback
Cheers Aaron
#39
Posted 06 February 2019 - 08:47 PM
GMH-01X - dropping the Body over the K-Frame was a Job and a half ! - trying the line up the the 2 x bottom K-Frame Bolts was an effort - on trying start the Bolt by screwing in with a Pointed End I pushed the Bottom Bush out - grr grr grr... - start again - I used a Racket Strap to pull the K-Frame forward - on LCA & Lifting Frame I made - a Hoist would have made it a lot easier. Next time - in 2 x months time with my LH - I think I'll do it different. Once I have the K-Frame under the Car I'll lower both the Front & Rear at the same time - Engine Crane at Front + Floor Jack under Gearbox + Floor Jack under Diff. The Joys of working on Toranas!
#40
Posted 07 February 2019 - 06:47 AM
I have used this method a lot. Here's a few key tips. Make sure that the K frame and body hole centers measure up. 792-794mm for memory. Lower the body onto the four upper holes, leaving the gearbox and outrigger arms low. You should be able to get the four holes lined up and bushes on before the outrigger arms engage in the chassis. When the bushes are installed you can put the four nuts on but only to the top of the threads.
Then use a jack and paint scrapers to slide the outrigger legs into place. (I've never had to use a ratchet strap) Pull out the scrapers as soon as the bushes have moved onto the bush face on the arms.
Keep jacking until the bolt holes line up as close as possible. On my car I then have to lift the chassis slightly to get the outrigger holes to line up perfectly. This is why you only put the four nuts on to the top of the threads. Slide those bolts in and tighten the nuts.
Lower the jack and chassis back down. Tighten the four nuts. A spark plug socket works well for this.
I hope this helps. Steve.
#41
Posted 07 February 2019 - 08:10 AM
GMH-01X - dropping the Body over the K-Frame was a Job and a half ! - trying the line up the the 2 x bottom K-Frame Bolts was an effort - on trying start the Bolt by screwing in with a Pointed End I pushed the Bottom Bush out - grr grr grr... - start again - I used a Racket Strap to pull the K-Frame forward - on LCA & Lifting Frame I made - a Hoist would have made it a lot easier. Next time - in 2 x months time with my LH - I think I'll do it different. Once I have the K-Frame under the Car I'll lower both the Front & Rear at the same time - Engine Crane at Front + Floor Jack under Gearbox + Floor Jack under Diff. The Joys of working on Toranas!
I have used this method a lot. Here's a few key tips. Make sure that the K frame and body hole centers measure up. 792-794mm for memory. Lower the body onto the four upper holes, leaving the gearbox and outrigger arms low. You should be able to get the four holes lined up and bushes on before the outrigger arms engage in the chassis. When the bushes are installed you can put the four nuts on but only to the top of the threads.
Then use a jack and paint scrapers to slide the outrigger legs into place. (I've never had to use a ratchet strap) Pull out the scrapers as soon as the bushes have moved onto the bush face on the arms.
Keep jacking until the bolt holes line up as close as possible. On my car I then have to lift the chassis slightly to get the outrigger holes to line up perfectly. This is why you only put the four nuts on to the top of the threads. Slide those bolts in and tighten the nuts.
Lower the jack and chassis back down. Tighten the four nuts. A spark plug socket works well for this.
I hope this helps. Steve.
Thanks for your feedback Terry, sounds like there's a certain technique for bolting up the k frame
As Steve has mentioned above ...some very handy tips for both of us to use on the next time around
Thank you Steve
Cheers Aaron
#42
Posted 07 February 2019 - 10:26 AM
FWIW I have done it the other way by jacking the k frame up to the chassis and it was a pain. Had to do like Terry and pull the frame forward to line it up and another strap on the outriggers to get them to close up. I still haven't been able to line up the front 4 bushes to the chassis properly (forward a bit from where they need to be) but I don't have the engine in yet so hoping when it is it will give some leverage to line them up properly.
Terry, watching with interest as we have a few similarities. I'm doing a 355 with T400 behind, and 9" true trac and 3.50:1. Also have put the SLR stripes on mine as I think its a bit plain without (and no flares) but the original side stripes are a bit big, in my opinion. Do you know what the difference in cases is between the T700 and T400. Cheers Ron
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