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updating the hatch


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#126 jeffblanco

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 03:04 PM

Great look! Well Done

 

Regards Mando.



#127 axistr

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Posted 24 January 2020 - 05:20 PM

I decided to do a weight check to see what the difference will be between the old and new brakes. The old Girlock system weighed in at a surprising 15.5 kg per side and the PBR was 8 kg. It looks like this driver doesn't need to go on a weight loss diet after all. Just got rid of a whopping 15 kg of unsprung weight, woo hoo.    

 

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#128 axistr

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Posted 30 January 2020 - 07:05 PM

I got around to sand blasting, painted and reconditioning the rear calipers, of course the pistons were pitted and had to order a couple of new ones. New park brake shoes and new rotors so everyfhing is new again. I managed to reposition the park brake cable anchors at the backing plates and now have to organise some cables because the existing cable has all been modified to suit the girlock calipers. There is only one cable between left and right with hook ends. 

 

Its probably easier to get some new cables and modify the ends to suit the commodore levers. I did the same to my SLR some time ago by silver soldiering the old commodore ends to the original Torana cable. Or I could go all out and try and fit an electric park brake system from a VF commodore. Has anyone tried or had any experiance with adapting an electric park brake system ? 

 

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#129 axistr

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Posted 25 November 2022 - 07:59 AM

When you have an old Torana your never finished tinkering with them. Decided to remove the Tremec TKO and fit a TKX into the hatch. The hatch is a SS body and still retains the original console. The tunnel didn't suit the TKO and never wanted to alter the tunnel due to the above reasons. 

 

With the TKX my drive shaft angle is much better. The two piece tail shaft behind the TKO box removed most of the vibrations, however under hard acceleration in 1st & 2nd the centre bearing rubber would load up and give a little knock as the bearing pushed up hard against the steel mount bracket. If it didn't have so much torque and traction I probably wouldn't have had this problem. The engine 383ci has 503 ft lbs of torque, So back to the one piece tail shaft and in with the TKX. The other thing that always bothered me was the diff ratio, great on Hwy economy but the tradeoff was harder to get off the mark 3.0-1 ratio. Decided to fit 3.5-1 gears, the TKX is also a close ratio box and suit the engine much better, now pull much harder off the mark. 

 

The TKX sits 25mm higher than the TKO. Had to make up a spacer on the rear mount as I couldn't bend the crossmember up any further. 

Total success no more little noises or vibrations and better to drive all round. The TKO is a good box but feels a bit agricultural compared to the TKX.  

 

Note. Selling the TKO 500 if anyone is interested. 11,000 km since new.

 

TKO box

 

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TKX

 

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#130 Heath

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Posted 27 November 2022 - 09:37 AM

Very awesome.

What are you chasing for the TKO 600? Might share it with friends.

They really have dropped in popularity and value since the TKX was released (they're actually discontinued now). But they're a great solution for someone wanting a tough gearbox that wants to save a few bob.

#131 SmacT

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Posted 05 January 2023 - 01:22 PM

Really cool Lenny - any headaches wth the TKX? I am wanting to go the same route. Is it cable or hydraulic operated for you? How have you set up your speedo? (Sorry for the late responses, missed this somehow). :-) 



#132 axistr

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Posted 10 January 2023 - 07:17 AM

G'day Sam, when I originally restored the hatch I fitted the TKO so it was just a matter of removing the TKO and fit the TKX. The length, shift location, rear mount position ect were all the same. The TKX does fit much better in the tunnel than the TKO with no floor modifications. I also retained the Dello release fork and slave cylinder and modified a BF Ford Falcon clutch master cylinder assembly. The clutch pressure plate has a lot of clamping force so this mod reduced the leg force needed to the point I can now push the pedal down with one finger. The slave cylinder from memory is Holden HR, but sleaved and reduced the ID of the cylinder to get the perfect ratio. I use the mechanical speedo drive cable, (speedo reads 3kph faster than ground speed). Used my pulse pick-up to drive my VDO radio/nav system. The reason for going to TKX was for a better driveline angle. I could have cut the floor but wanted to keep the original console. 

 

If you click the link to my SLR build I have shown how I did my A/C and the next page the clutch pedal. 

 

Axistr's Father & Son LH SLR Project. - Page 5 - Members Projects & Plans - GMH-Torana



#133 SmacT

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Posted 12 January 2023 - 01:45 PM

Legend, thanks Lenny.






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