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LX Hatch late model Auto Brake Pedal


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#1 Cook

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Posted 26 August 2015 - 12:57 PM

Hi, I am in the process of converting LX hatch from manual to auto and trying to find a brake pedal from late model that fits with the bent booster push rod, without much luck.  Therefore does anyone know what other model Holdens of that time used the same auto pedal, if any, without me having to modify (which I could do with the manual pedal I have).  FYI, I will be fitting reco WB DD booster with bent push rod and comm. master cylinder from Hoppers and will be running discs all round.  Cheers Ron



#2 UCgazman

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Posted 26 August 2015 - 01:19 PM

UC's have the bent push rod, shouldn't be hard to find an auto brake pedal from one?



#3 Cook

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Posted 26 August 2015 - 01:58 PM

Thanks for that, I assumed that was the case but even having trouble finding one of them, that's why I thought maybe some other model Holdens would have used the same. Cheers



#4 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 26 August 2015 - 03:43 PM

The only difference between the straight and bent push rod pedals is the position of the pin.

 

You could get a straight push rod pedal, press out the pin, drill a hole for the pin the the bent push rod position and press the pin into the new hole.



#5 BIG KEV

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Posted 26 August 2015 - 04:13 PM

As above ....its been done before

#6 neglectedtorana

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Posted 26 August 2015 - 04:49 PM

I used my auto pedal when converting to manual, just cut off the bigger plate and welded on a smaller one



#7 Cook

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Posted 26 August 2015 - 05:34 PM

To all, thanks for the replies.  I have read a number of the other threads about modifying pedals but I'm not really interested in doing that (call me lazy) so was just trying to ascertain if that pedal stretched across a few models.  Cheer Ron



#8 Toranamat69

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Posted 26 August 2015 - 07:56 PM

Only late LX/UC are the same , all other holdens are different.

 

Keep an eye on ebay, they come up fairly often, but pull good coin these days.

 

The pins are available new on ebay if you do go for the modify your existing option.

 

I would have thought you would need to press the pin out, then weld up the old hole before redrilling the new one as the pins are only 8mm different centres, so just touching in the middle.



#9 Bigfella237

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Posted 26 August 2015 - 08:15 PM

My memory might be confused by early (big) Holdens but I thought the early model boosters had a clevis (like a forked bracket) with a removable (floating) pin, whereas the later models the pin was pressed into the pedal and the booster rod had a flattened solid end?

 

Either way M@ is correct about the holes plus it would have to weaken the pedal somewhat?



#10 Cook

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Posted 26 August 2015 - 08:17 PM

Thanks for the advice Toranamat69.  You're right, they are not cheap, when they do appear.  I'll keep looking or maybe try to do a deal with someone looking for conversion to manual and we can swap.  Cheers Ron



#11 yel327

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Posted 27 August 2015 - 07:17 AM

Just leave the manual pedal there Ron, gives you more room for your feet. I used to use manual pedals in auto Holdens as it makes it heaps easier to get in and out of them with work boots on, and Holdens have even more room than a Torana does.



#12 Cook

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Posted 27 August 2015 - 08:39 AM

Hadn't thought of that, I'll see how it feels when I get around to it.  Cheers Ron



#13 Peter UC

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Posted 27 August 2015 - 12:38 PM

And I put a modified auto pedal in my manual car so I could left foot brake easier, I'm a bit weird though.



#14 neglectedtorana

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Posted 29 August 2015 - 06:03 AM

When I swapped from auto to manual I cut the plate off the pedal arm and cut out a smaller one from spare met as l and welded it on. I still have the auto plate and rubber that could be welded, screwed or riveted onto a manual pedal if you want it?



#15 Cook

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Posted 29 August 2015 - 08:10 PM

Thanks for the offer Tom but it looks like I may have sourced a UC pedal.  $50 plus postage FWIT.  Cheers Ron



#16 BIG KEV

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Posted 02 September 2015 - 09:12 PM

Just a quick question exactly how much lower is the bent push rod position to the straight ????
I think this info maybe handy

#17 Bigfella237

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Posted 02 September 2015 - 10:01 PM

Have a look here Kev...

 

http://www.gmh-toran...tios-for-lh-lx/



#18 BIG KEV

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Posted 03 September 2015 - 07:37 AM

Cheers for the link Bigfella that that works out to be 8mm differance

But when i spoke to Hydroboost they told 12mm lower centre to centre of hole ???
Can any one confirm this .....

#19 Cook

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Posted 03 September 2015 - 08:38 AM

Hi Big Kev,  Toranamat69 above suggests the difference is 8mm.  I don't have a straight one to compare but I think I have seen pics of the difference somewhere in the forums and 8mm rings a bell.  Cheers Ron



#20 Toranamat69

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Posted 03 September 2015 - 08:20 PM

I have both here I can double check.



#21 EunUCh

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Posted 03 September 2015 - 08:35 PM

8mm is correct,the other difference which might not be important in anything other than ID is the brake light switch "tab" ..different shape ?



#22 Cook

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Posted 03 September 2015 - 10:17 PM

Interesting point, I hadn't thought about brake light triggers.  I'm not that far advanced in the rebuild to even think about the electrical implications but needs to be considered.  Cheers Ron



#23 Kirk

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Posted 04 September 2015 - 01:34 AM

Ron whats the plan for the manual pedals?



#24 Cook

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Posted 04 September 2015 - 08:56 AM

I've kept the 253 motor that was in the car when I bought it and at this stage I'm thinking of hanging onto the manual to go with that in a future project.  Cheers Ron



#25 Toranamat69

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Posted 04 September 2015 - 07:59 PM

OK, comparing 2 manual brake pedals(done with verniers and bolts removed this time), I have:

 

LH/Early LX - 63mm

 

Late LX/UC - 71mm.

 

I also have a UC Auto pedal here though that is a bit different to look at, but the same length and it has the pin at 76.5mm from the pivot.  I wonder if this is actually a sunbird one.

 

The brake light switch plate is different on this UC pedal, but you can just rotate the bracket around and it still works.  I think you would need to drill a new hole for the bracket to stop it turning.


Edited by Toranamat69, 04 September 2015 - 08:02 PM.





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