33 replies to this topic

[Bigfella237]

It can be a little dangerous for the uninitiated to mess with that ball stud adjustment though? The problem is that as the clutch plate wears it gets thinner, so the resting position of the fingers on the pressure plate end up further out, reducing the throwout bearing clearance. If you were to adjust that ball stud up too tight you may have problems with the throwout riding the clutch years later (or premature throwout bearing failure)?

 

Ang, try to keep the driveline angles like they would have been from the factory, if you start messing with the height of the gearbox cross member you could find yourself with a bad tailshaft vibration?

 

Also, what was the clutch adjustment like before you pulled it apart? If the pedal would take-up just off the floor then maybe the clutch was simply out of adjustment, causing the difficulties getting into gear?

 

The other thing is it may not be the clutch at all? I recall we used to run auto trans fluid in M20/21's instead of gear oil as it made gear selection feel a lot better, especially when cold.

[UCANG]

The ball stud is correctly set. The manual says tip of the ball stud to the face of the bellhousing should be 102mm.

And how exactly do I check if the input shaft is binding on spigot?

[UCANG]

Bigfella - i tried adjusting the clutch throughout the whole range of the adjuster nut and didn't make a difference. I recall gears not clicking all the way in, reverse would get stuck and all sorts of shifting problems with engine off. With engine on they would grind and not get into gear. Even if I managed to get it in gear (with some persuasion) and blip the key the with the clutch in the car would move.

I haven't tried anything yet but unbolt clutch, realign, put gearbox back on and try the shifter out the car and it changes as it should. Just not motivated to put it back in the car without being confident all is sorted.

Ps. It's a mc6, and the gearbox is in good condition, drove fine behind the starfire

[S pack]

In the Commodore manual there are different dimensions to adjust the clutch fork pivot ball for the MC6 and the M20 behind L6 engines.

[UCANG]

Happy to announce success!

I can't pin point the exact problem but here is what I did/ noticed / found out

Got new spigot, removed old and installed it. Tested on shaft and fit nicely in the crank. Only had to be love tapped home (whereas the other one needed to be smashed in)

Used alignment tool and put the clutch on. Gearbox mated up nicely first go with minimal effort. Still changed gears nice.

When installing back into car, it seemed like the gearbox went in its location nicely, crossmember was a breeze to bolt up (previous attempt was a pain - maybe put on incorrectly?)

Put tailshaft on, and speedo gear in. Went inside gears were abit shit again. Speedo gear wasn't 100% in.. Pulled it out and tried the shifter again. Worked good.

Adjusted clutch and pedal travel, got in the car, started the engine and shifted into every gear without a problem.

Just gotto seat the speedo drive gear in again and that jobs done!

[Balfizar]

Happy to announce success!

I can't pin point the exact problem but here is what I did/ noticed / found out

Got new spigot, removed old and installed it. Tested on shaft and fit nicely in the crank. Only had to be love tapped home (whereas the other one needed to be smashed in)

Used alignment tool and put the clutch on. Gearbox mated up nicely first go with minimal effort. Still changed gears nice.

When installing back into car, it seemed like the gearbox went in its location nicely, crossmember was a breeze to bolt up (previous attempt was a pain - maybe put on incorrectly?)

Put tailshaft on, and speedo gear in. Went inside gears were abit shit again. Speedo gear wasn't 100% in.. Pulled it out and tried the shifter again. Worked good.

Adjusted clutch and pedal travel, got in the car, started the engine and shifted into every gear without a problem.

Just gotto seat the speedo drive gear in again and that jobs done!

"Got new spigot, removed old and installed it. Tested on shaft and fit nicely in the crank."

OK, the $64 question is where (what depth) did the spigot bearing have to be driven in to the crank to have the correct overlap with the spigot???

Same spigot bearing 1948 to 2000 (L6 and V8) but only 1 dimension appears in a GMH  1988 manual for a V8.

The opportunity is beckening to save fellow enthusiasts the pain of dummy fitting and trying to workout what the position is.

 You can't always go off where you found it as in my case where a butchered installation had rammed the spigot bearing home in the crank.

There seems to be no documentation of the spigot bearing position in GMH manuals prior to 1988 or it has not been found yet.

[76lxhatch]

Its really one of those things that you should check/measure every time you install one. Just compare the distance to the back of the bell housing with it installed on the engine to the length of the input shaft from the front of the box.

[UCANG]

" You can't always go off where you found it as in my case where a butchered installation had rammed the spigot bearing home in the crank."

I agree here. When I installed the previous spigot, I located it where the old one was. The old one was only just inside the crank past the taper, about 4mm from being flush with the face of the crankshaft opening. However the motor used to have an Aussie box as just the bellhousing was still connected, so it might of been the correct location for that box's input shaft. This time around, the spigot was driven near the back of the crank, around 5mm from fully home.
I just measured and tested and worked for me

[Kroozer]

GMH - M39434K 1988 SS Group A Volume 9 (a very rare manual indeed) perhaps why you have not seen this before and I cannot find any reference to spigot bearing in my collection ranging 1978 to 1988 as you have suggested hardly rates a mention. Not the first time GMH overlooked something. VL manuals was the first consolidation of manuals for a long time. Prior to that there was always refer to previous manuals , 1986 cars were still referencing 1971 manuals.

Hey Mate, I know it is a long shot but would you be interested in selling the manual?

Thanks, Grant

Sent from my SM-G998B using Tapatalk