Jump to content


- - - - -

LH and LX merge into 1 muscle car

Started by _Mox_ , Oct 04 2015 12:19 PM

  • Please log in to reply
325 replies to this topic

#1 _Mox_

_Mox_
  • Guests

Posted 04 October 2015 - 12:19 PM

This is my thread building one car out of two.

Attached Files


#2 purrlx

purrlx

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,330 posts
  • Name:Danny
  • Location:Gladstone
  • Car:LX hatch
  • Joined: 23-December 11
Garage View Garage

Posted 04 October 2015 - 01:30 PM

They both look to be in good nick, shame to part one out


#3 _Mox_

_Mox_
  • Guests

Posted 05 October 2015 - 12:55 PM

The first car in the photos is pretty much rust free but it had a very bad paint job in single stage acrylic, even though it doesn't look bad in the blurry photo. The second car came with a good slr interior and good 308 engine and running gear but was rusty and had a bent chassis


#4 _Mox_

_Mox_
  • Guests

Posted 06 October 2015 - 12:12 PM

Just found some photos of the first torana I bought. it was supposed to be a quick repair and paint but things .just got worse and worse the more I pulled it apart, and I finally bought another shell. As I sought more pictures to resize I will tell more of the sad story of the car. 

Attached Files


#5 _Mox_

_Mox_
  • Guests

Posted 06 October 2015 - 12:15 PM

more photos

Attached Files


#6 _Mox_

_Mox_
  • Guests

Posted 07 October 2015 - 10:29 AM

My first job on the car was to find a drivers guard and a nose cone, but that wasn't easy. I found a guy who said he had a fair few panels for toranas, and he said do I want good ones or repairable items and I said I will get good ones so it would be less work for me down the line. when I went to pick them up I noticed the guard had a fresh coat of spray can primer on it, but because I had no other options I took them. When I got home I stripped the guard and found fresh bog in the lower rear, and when I removed the bog there was a heap of rust covered up. The nose cone had a thick coat of red enamel paint and when stripped it was full of rust and pin holes, I know it is impossible to find these old panels without rust but I think this bloke is deceiving people, karma will work things out, I know I will never use him again.    

Attached Files


#7 _Mox_

_Mox_
  • Guests

Posted 07 October 2015 - 10:33 AM

More photos

Attached Files


#8 _LS1 Taxi_

_LS1 Taxi_
  • Guests

Posted 07 October 2015 - 12:12 PM

Wow, we have a few of them down in Mexico too  :gun:


#9 _Mox_

_Mox_
  • Guests

Posted 07 October 2015 - 07:46 PM

Restoring an old car is hard enough without people trying give it to you up the tailpipe. But on the positive side there are some great people out in car restoring land too


#10 _LS1 Taxi_

_LS1 Taxi_
  • Guests

Posted 07 October 2015 - 10:46 PM

Yes! This forum has plenty of great people. Facebook and EBay have the rest. :lol:

#11 StephenSLR

StephenSLR

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,707 posts
  • Name:Stephen
  • Location:Sydney
  • Car:1976 LX SL/R
  • Joined: 12-November 05

Posted 08 October 2015 - 05:59 PM

Don't mind me I'm a bit OCD when it comes to LH with LX bits and vice versa.

 

What are your plans?  If it's a keeper go for it and build it however you like; if you plan to sell, just be wary, an LX with LH front apron, etc. will scare away a few people. This is the right place to ask those type of questions so fire away if you have them; the right details can make your car worth that little bit more.

 

s


Edited by StephenSLR, 08 October 2015 - 06:00 PM.

#12 _Mox_

_Mox_
  • Guests

Posted 08 October 2015 - 07:34 PM

Hi Stephen SLR, the first car pictured in this thread is a 76 LX, and this is the one that I am building and keeping, the second car pictured is a 75 LH, it is the first car I bought and it had to many problems and extensive rust so I bought the LX. Good to hear feedback on the project all help would be great. Here are a couple of problems I pictured, the roof sills had bad rust,  they butchered the rear quarters, the battery tray had a panel they taped in with silver tape and they even painted it, and the rear spoiler was riveted on, I know these problems can be fixed, but there are more I will elaborate on in the next couple of posts.

Attached Files


#13 Ice

Ice

    Cool

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,120 posts
  • Name:Gene
  • Location:Galaxy's away from Ipswich
  • Car:77 HZ Sandman Van
  • Joined: 03-January 07

Posted 08 October 2015 - 07:39 PM

Who ever cut that rear flares needs to be reemed thats shocking

#14 StephenSLR

StephenSLR

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,707 posts
  • Name:Stephen
  • Location:Sydney
  • Car:1976 LX SL/R
  • Joined: 12-November 05

Posted 08 October 2015 - 07:55 PM

the first car pictured in this thread is a 76 LX, and this is the one that I am building and keeping

 

Good choice. Some prefer an LH or early LX due to the ADR being pre anti-pollution gear. I just prefer the look of the LX.

 

The later LX's have RTS, you may even want to consider putting in a UC front crossmember, control arms, steering box, etc. basically everything from brake rotor to brake rotor which is RTS phase II.

 

The 5000 stickers on the guards and spoiler are LH.

 

LX 5000 has SLR 5000 decal across the spoiler, same as you have above the door sills of the LX. The door cards are LX SL/R, the black SL/R dash is LH and the orange needle guage is LX. You may wish to sell/exchange for a silver SL/R dash.

 

My personal opinion: sell the SL/R horn cap and get a blank one, none of them came with SL/R badge.

 

Roof aerials were also not original on any of them.

 

s


#15 _Mox_

_Mox_
  • Guests

Posted 08 October 2015 - 08:00 PM

Hi all, thought I better let everybody know where I am heading with this project, I am aiming for a original as possible LX SLR 5000, except wheels which I am not sure of yet. I know this probably sounds boring compared to some projects on this site and has been done heaps before, but that is how I like to do things, although I like all projects and hope it keeps somebody entertained.  


#16 StephenSLR

StephenSLR

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,707 posts
  • Name:Stephen
  • Location:Sydney
  • Car:1976 LX SL/R
  • Joined: 12-November 05

Posted 08 October 2015 - 08:02 PM

631142085_o.jpg

 

I am aiming for a original as possible LX SLR 5000

 

Ditch the flares and bonnet scoop; they are A9X option.

 

s


Edited by StephenSLR, 08 October 2015 - 08:15 PM.

#17 _Mox_

_Mox_
  • Guests

Posted 08 October 2015 - 08:09 PM

Yeah I know Gene, I think a plumber cut the guards because they sealed them full of clear silicon, it was caked in there, and the doors and wheel arches were not even done so the tyres still hit  them.   :banghead:


Edited by Mox, 08 October 2015 - 08:12 PM.

#18 _Mox_

_Mox_
  • Guests

Posted 08 October 2015 - 08:18 PM

Thanks Stephen, love the old ad and info, I stand corrected, a LX SLR 5000 with a bonnet scoop and flares. But it also looks like I have got some other bits to find, Thanks mate


#19 StephenSLR

StephenSLR

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,707 posts
  • Name:Stephen
  • Location:Sydney
  • Car:1976 LX SL/R
  • Joined: 12-November 05

Posted 08 October 2015 - 08:22 PM

No worries, may also help to post the build date. Later LX will have RTS and little RTS badge on glove box lid. They also went from badges on the front apron passenger side to a sticker, late in the LX range.

 

s


#20 _Mox_

_Mox_
  • Guests

Posted 08 October 2015 - 08:45 PM

I didn't see any RTS on the glove box, and it had a badge on the apron, it is a 9/76 model, might be worth finding a RTS front suspension.


#21 StephenSLR

StephenSLR

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,707 posts
  • Name:Stephen
  • Location:Sydney
  • Car:1976 LX SL/R
  • Joined: 12-November 05

Posted 08 October 2015 - 09:09 PM

it is a 9/76 model

 

Mine's a 9/76 SL/R L32 and it's pre-RTS, post anti-pollution ADR 27A. I'm guessing your Chassis no. starts with a B. Engine bay will be body coloured.

 

 

might be worth finding a RTS front suspension.

 

Best to get a UC front end, k-frame and all, it's better than LX RTS. The steering rack is solidly mounted rather than rubber bushes, better geometry; I hear the improvement is amazing.

 

s


#22 StephenSLR

StephenSLR

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,707 posts
  • Name:Stephen
  • Location:Sydney
  • Car:1976 LX SL/R
  • Joined: 12-November 05

Posted 08 October 2015 - 09:47 PM

might be worth finding a RTS front suspension.

 

Some valuable information here:

 

http://www.gmh-toran...-lx-rts-uc-rts/

 

s


#23 _Mox_

_Mox_
  • Guests

Posted 09 October 2015 - 05:24 PM

Its funny that we are talking front ends, because when I pulled the nose cone and guard off I noticed that the top control arm was bent, and as I removed that  I noticed the k- frame had a kink in it towards the rear. So I searched for a top control arm and ended up having to get one posted from Victoria, could not find anything closer. But after a while I found a complete front end for sale in Brisbane, so I drove straight up there to pick it up. In my haste I loaded it in the car and brought it straight home. And the next day when I checked it out I noticed it was different to the one I wanted, and when I made enquires I found out it was a 4CYL k-frame and the engine mounts were different. So I decided to cut off my engine mounts and weld them onto the new k-frame I bought, here is a photo with them welded on but that is not the end of the story, I will elaborate next post. 

Attached Files


#24 _Mox_

_Mox_
  • Guests

Posted 10 October 2015 - 08:58 AM

After about 2hrs of swearing and tools flying I came to the realization that the k-frame was not going into the car, the drivers side chassis rail had been pushed in around 1 inch, and at that stage I also noticed a kink in the radiator support. On trail fitting the new guard and nose cone the bonnet was sitting on top of the drivers guard and was like trying to fit a square peg in a round hole. With this problem and the other problems with the car I didn't want to just sell the car off for parts, so I decided to try and find another shell, this is where the built goes more on the positive side. 


#25 _Mox_

_Mox_
  • Guests

Posted 10 October 2015 - 09:19 AM

Hi StephenSLR, I was wondering wether to paint my engine bay black or body colour, the chassis number does start with a b, model is LX8VC69 and Eng L20 Trans m15 and axle GV4.


Back to Members Projects & Plans


0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

  1. GMH-Torana
  2. → Members Area
  3. → Members Projects & Plans
  4. Privacy Policy
  5. The Rules! ·