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Hoppers stoppers installation


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#101 76lxhatch

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 08:47 AM

I think the ride height is the key, here is a photo of mine as per above description, at ride height with full right lock:

P1000734.jpg

(my calipers are black so not as easy to see but there is at least 15mm of clearance)

 

This is with the left steering arm on the lower control arm stop:

P1000735.jpg

 

Please excuse the camera angles, its hard to get under there.

 

The only thing is I think dattoman's comment about caster making a difference is true, because I don't remember there being quite that much space. However there was definitely still clearance at around 1.5 to 2 degrees caster at ride height, I checked this carefully when I installed them.

 

I understand why you wouldn't want to cut the cross member, based on the above I think things will fit OK. If you still have problems then perhaps adding steering stops may be an option? Toranas have a little more lock than really necessary, particularly with standard alignment settings and limited grip they will tend to sledge if you use all the lock doing a three point turn for example.



#102 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 12:55 PM

Would using the UC upper arms change this any do you think Andy ?

Looks like its on the ground.. but is it loaded ?

 

According to later posts the suspension is at full rebound.

 

There are quite a few variables affecting caliper position.

 

UC arms do increase the available caster and the way the caster is achieved so it would have some affect on the position of the caliper.

 

Increasing caster will tilt the caliper towards the back of the car.

Increasing negative camber will tilt the top of the caliper towards the k-frame.

 

Full lock at full compression is not possible as the tyre will hit the guard longer before full lock is achieved.

Full lock at full rebound is possible.

 

The suspension may be getting more rebound than stock. The mounting point of the upper control arm pivot and the bump stop fitted to the upper control arm will affect the amount of rebound travel available.

 

It is also possible that the red suspension bushes have collapsed which would move the lower control arm in. It wouldn't be the first time that red suspension bushes have failed before the car got on the road.


Edited by ls2lxhatch, 19 June 2013 - 12:56 PM.


#103 StephenSLR

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 01:02 PM

It is also possible that the red suspension bushes have collapsed which would move the lower control arm in. It wouldn't be the first time that red suspension bushes have failed before the car got on the road.

 

I've had them crumble on me, car was sitting in the garage for a few years and they just went all powdery and disintegrated when I got it back on the road.

 

s



#104 _Holden89nut_

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 01:33 PM

Deffently haven't crumbled thanks for the input tho mate, car has seen no work or weight in the front as of yet, still hoping weight in the front will sort this issue out as stated

#105 _mojolj_

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Posted 22 November 2013 - 08:39 PM

hi just woundering  if any  one can help me out with a brake up  grade with my lj torana . i been tolled hq brakes are no good  as in they hit the top control arm and its hard to get a good off set in rims and tyres.and hopper stopper say you have to run commodore studs whitch dose not give me much when looking for some nice wheels.i have all ready got a 9 inch lsd 3.55 diff with commodore vr vs  disk brakes . i been tolled about volvo brakes 4 piston ones bolt up.



#106 lx008

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Posted 02 November 2016 - 11:16 PM

Is there any increase in the track width using the Hoppers kit?



#107 Lc69

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 08:59 PM

Not on the LC/LJ.
Marginal if any difference.

#108 TORLX8

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Posted 05 November 2016 - 03:50 PM

8mm each side on LX apparently

#109 kiwilx

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 07:41 AM

Hi All
Has anyone experienced the flexible brake lines pinching on the stub and upper control arms at full lock? I seem to lose my brake pedal at full lock and this is about the only area that clearance seems to be a problem when I have a look. Car is LX RTS lowered on Kings springs (not slr ones). Pretty sure the lines were installed as per instructions with cable tie to the stub (amazed NZ certifier let this through as its a big no no for brake lines over here according to the mod manual) so I'm a bit stumped but not so keen to lose pedal every now and again. Every other brake system component has been replaced or reconditioned so there aren't any other weaknesses that I can see
Cheers

#110 kiwilx

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Posted 15 July 2017 - 08:17 AM

Hi all
Further to note above, it appears that the brake lines are fine, the caliper hits the top suspension arm before my steering stops hit so caliper gets a shove and I lose brakes momentarily on one side and pedal dives. Has anyone else experienced this?

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#111 rexy

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Posted 15 July 2017 - 11:11 PM

What setup do you have?

#112 kiwilx

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Posted 16 July 2017 - 08:01 PM

Hi Rexy

LX RTS lowered on Kings low springs. Other than that, all std.

Thanks

Liam

#113 rexy

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 12:04 AM

Apologies, I meant what brake set up do you have?

#114 kiwilx

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 05:50 PM

Sorry, misunderstood.

290mm kit, hubs with pbr 2 pot calipers and vented slotted rotors.

Cheers

#115 rexy

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 11:24 PM

Calipers on the front or rear?
I have the same setup on my hatch with the calipers on the front. There is a heap of clearance.

#116 kiwilx

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 12:08 AM

Mine are on the rear as per the instructions with the stubs swapped sides. The calipers are taking paint off the back of the top arms so must be giving it a good clip. A
Its all thankfully been at low speed when I lose pedal and brake pressure but it is a little unsettling.

#117 Bigfella237

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 06:54 AM

 ~ Its all thankfully been at low speed ~

 

If you're on full lock at high speed you have bigger problems! :P



#118 rexy

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Posted 24 July 2017 - 08:45 PM

Have you done the swap around yet?

#119 kiwilx

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Posted 27 July 2017 - 09:44 PM

Have you done the swap around yet?

As in rear to front? No. I'm going to have a good look to see why it is hitting the caliper before the steering stop as that is about 5mm off the arm.

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#120 lx008

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Posted 26 February 2021 - 02:54 PM

deleted.


Edited by lx008, 26 February 2021 - 02:58 PM.


#121 lx008

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Posted 26 February 2021 - 03:12 PM

8mm each side on LX apparently

 

Anyone know for a fact that the Hopper's kit increases the track width?



#122 TORLX8

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Posted 26 February 2021 - 03:46 PM

Anyone know for a fact that the Hopper's kit increases the track width?

I have just purchased a Hoppers kit, but not yet fitted.
They tell me track width will be increased by 2.5 mm per side now.

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#123 lx008

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Posted 26 February 2021 - 04:14 PM

I have just purchased a Hoppers kit, but not yet fitted.
They tell me track width will be increased by 2.5 mm per side now.

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Thanks for the reply!... When you get the kit fitted please let us know of any track width increase.



#124 TORLX8

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Posted 26 February 2021 - 04:36 PM

No probs mate.

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#125 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 27 February 2021 - 02:19 AM

Hopper used to supply two versions of the 290 mm AU twin piston kit.

 

One version used a hub with a 8 mm offset to suit the offset used on Commodore stud pattern rims. There was also a standard offset hub that was supplied with Torana stud pattern.

 

This is a picture of the Hoppers 290 mm AU twin piston set with Commodore offset. You can just see the larger silver spacer between the caliper and the caliper adaptor. 

 

The extra 8 mm offset gives better clearance between the caliper and the control arm on full lock but could be enough to cause tyre clearance problems if you were not replacing the rims.

 

hoppers03.jpg

 






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