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Christo's 76 LX Hatchback Build


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#101 koalasprint

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Posted 03 August 2017 - 10:37 AM

Hi Chris, thanks for sharing the part numbers, etc. I am sure you will have helped a few out down the track. I'd say the advice to wait until the box gets oil is correct. My Tremec was the same. Now that it's installed it shifts like a dream. You could probably coax it into other gears by turning the input shaft while you try selecting a gear, but don't panic if it still won't shift.

The other thing I did was to "clock" the bell housing to the crankshaft. My Holden block had been drilled for chev pattern and was miles out. So I used the trimatic dowels and holes, that got it close but only just within spec. I bought some offset dowels and that got it almost perfect.



#102 christolx

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Posted 03 August 2017 - 05:42 PM

I'm glad you said that about your Tremec Steve, puts my mind at ease! as it will be a little while before i actually get to test the box out unless i win lotto! :P



#103 jonesy

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Posted 15 August 2017 - 03:13 AM

Thanks Covert, I think they are a solid purchase!

 

Another quick update, i have been tracking down more parts for the build. Slowly stockpiling it all in my spare room haha 

 

Managed to get my hands on a set of custom 4 into 1 headers which i have been told fit to a SBC in a Torana. 43mm primaries to 3" collectors. I'm hoping they do the trick. TAP stamped on them...apparently a bloke named Shaun Tapping made them up, but that is about all i know. 

 

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i had shaun fab me up a set a couple of years ago for my SBC to LX fit, they are currently installed to engine on K frame... fit is nice, very tight but they have to be i spose, had to mod the starter mounting block from memory (no majory though) -starter is a high torque Hitachi 

 

so +1 from this end



#104 Liz Clare

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Posted 15 August 2017 - 07:07 PM

Hi Chris,

 

Great build thread you have going here. I spent this arvo reading through it, so much good info. I've got an SS being restored to stock and some of your car's rust areas are very familiar ;) I've got someone else doing mine as I don't have the necessary skills but your thread has been an interesting read while I was working. All the best with it.

 

Cheers,

 

Liz :)



#105 christolx

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Posted 17 August 2017 - 10:20 PM

Jonesy - That is great to know, yea i think they will have to be quite tight, I should have the motor in a few weeks so will have to see how it all fits! 

 

Thanks very much for the kind words Liz, I appreciate the positive feedback. Glad to hear of another Torana saved and going back to stock. I would have likely done the same if i had a genuine SS. But that way i wouldn't have been able to do a few of the modifications i have done. Glad it kept you entertained, hopefully some big progress in the coming year! Godluck with the project! 



#106 Liz Clare

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Posted 18 August 2017 - 08:33 AM

I would have likely done the same if i had a genuine SS. But that way i wouldn't have been able to do a few of the modifications i have done.

I really like modified cars too, although I've never had one. Would like something "Nanna Spec" on the outside with just the right amount of Tuff where it counts. It's on my wish list :)

 

Cheers,

 

Liz :)



#107 christolx

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Posted 04 November 2017 - 06:28 PM

so i realise i have been pretty quiet on here lately. Just trying to sort out a few of the bigger parts of the build at the moment. Engine, Wheels/Tyres, Brakes and Diff. Very pleased to be moving forward slowly. 

 

Finally bit the bullet and ordered a set of rims and some tyres. I wanted to try and hold onto some of the classic look and the nostalgia, as well as get a bit more of a modern look with the 17's.

 

17x8 Front and 17x10 Rear wrapped in Nitto NT05 Rubber. I had a pretty had time trying to find a wide 275/285 in a 17" for the rear. I guess even the smallest of performance cars today (golf, focus, wrx etc) usually have a minimum 18" wheel so there were limited options. I'm sure the Nitto's will be up to the task. (have only heard positive things about the NT05 Model from the states) and although they have a 200 wear rating i personally would prefer to have the grip considering it won't be out and about daily. 

 

Getting the tyres fitted next week. 

 

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#108 christolx

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Posted 04 November 2017 - 06:40 PM

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Commodore PCD was a bit of a "phew" moment when they fit! (only did a rough measurement prior to ordering). Brakes are "Lotus Brembo's" I think that's what Datto called them. Will have to get some mounting brackets made up. 

 

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#109 christolx

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Posted 04 November 2017 - 06:45 PM

The Engine build is coming along well. Phil at Chev Power has got the short motor ready. Had a few issues with the "running" SBC. Initially it was thought that one of the cam lobes had a flat spot and would require a new cam. But on further inspection one of the piston ring's had broken and crack in a piston so ended up requiring a full rebuild and machined 60" over due to a fairly substantial score left behind. All sorted now, close to 6L displacement, although not ideal it will do the trick!

 

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Edited by christolx, 04 November 2017 - 06:48 PM.


#110 Holdenbn74

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Posted 04 November 2017 - 10:20 PM

Getting there mate, can't wait see it on the road and to have another Torrie around perth👌

#111 christolx

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Posted 05 November 2017 - 09:37 PM

Thanks mate, yep step by step it's all coming together slowly  :spoton:



#112 HIBERN8

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Posted 06 November 2017 - 10:09 AM

Looking good mate!

#113 christolx

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Posted 13 February 2018 - 10:37 PM

Thanks HIBERN8...

Actually feel as if that is what I have been doing over the last few months. It seems like the more my house fills up with Torana parts the further I am away from the build. Unfortunately it all takes time...patience...

 

I decided to try and fit up the RAM Hydraulic Throwout bearing for the M22. For some reason they chose to measure clutch/flywheel together instead of fitted to the bell housing. I used the setup sheet they provided to set up the bearing and could never seem to get it to within their tolerance, so decided to use the method McLeod use to set their bearings where everything is measured when it is together and seem to have it between .150-200 with the use of one thick and one thin shim to allow for clutch wear, so I think further down the track I'll get the boys at Chev Power to check over it just to be certain.

 

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SO I have made some progress and this is where I am currently at. Put the motor and Box together last Sunday. Had a few headaches trying to figure out why the M22's input shaft and the Spigot Bearing would not mate up. At first I was thinking the clutch may not have been aligned correctly, took it back out, tried to fit the box without the clutch/pressure plate and still no luck...kind of had me stumped. Turns out the tolerances for the input shaft and Bronze Spigot Bearing when both new are very fine...so the small amount of grease I added (to aid in insertion or at least thats my experience with lubricants)  :P  may have actually been creating an air lock or something, so removed the grease, gave the input shaft a quick rub with some emery cloth and went in with a bit of a push and then used a couple long bolts to guide the box and bell housing together. Phew! 

 

We then worked on getting the Motor mounted up. 

 

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So I went with the tried and tested Tuff Mounts, and they seem to be quite a good fit. I trimmed the firewall for dizzy clearance when the rust repair work was done and can definitley see how that small amount of clearance makes just enough room. Would be quite tight without that (I understand some ppl get away with small dizzy & drilling mounts to move the motor forward slightly)

 

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Didn't take too long to get the motor and box in. I guess that was one of the benefits of going with the M22 Muncie as it is no larger than the original 4 speed (although my trans tunnel has been butchered already). After getting the motor in, I have attempted to fit the extractors (will hopefully do that this weekend) and wow their isn't a lot of room at all.  I had Sean Tapper come out this afternoon and take a look and let me know how to go about squeezing them in (as they are a custom set he made). Currently I do not have the Starter Motor in, or the steering column so I have a bit more space to work at the moment but honestly I was unsure how fitment was going to go. Shaun told me to fit up the two end pipes (as they are detachable) and then it is easier to see how it all clears the kframe/sump. So he assured me that everything was looking good,so I will have to try and get them in on the weekend, perhaps lift one side of the motor to get some extra room. I'll keep you posted. (I can definitely see why people have had so many issues with fitment of off the shelf pipes)

 

One thing to note. I purchased and fitted up a Whitline Swaybar when I had the K-Frame rebuilt. Apparently it is not going to fit. As it sits in the way of the collectors on the headers, so I'll be removing that and will likely sell it on if anyone is interested. Is there another swaybar that fits forward facing? K-Mac perhaps?

 

 

Also getting some custom Carbon Fiber work done on the dash. (here's a sneak preview) I know it is not to everyone's taste...but I think it looks mint!

 

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Anyway...hopefully this is one step forward and I can put a bit more time into the build and this blog. 

 


Thanks 


Christo 

 

 

 



#114 Bigfella237

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Posted 13 February 2018 - 11:20 PM

I think you'll find that most people these days assemble the motor, trans and extractors on the K-frame while out of the car and then roll the whole lot under the body as an assembly, Might sound like more work but makes things a lot easier, especially fitting extractors!

 

I have thought about the C/F look on a Torana dash fascia myself, it kinda reminds me of that old HQ GTS diamond finish they used to have...

 

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Looking good though mate, won't be long now till the pile of parts in the spare bedroom starts getting smaller and that first drive gets ever nearer!



#115 myss427

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Posted 14 February 2018 - 08:29 AM

Did you check the throw out bearing sliding rod, to pressure plate clearance? Had 2 cars where they fowled by a few mm



#116 christolx

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Posted 14 February 2018 - 10:22 PM

I have heard that is what people do, but my K-Frame was so damn tight! I had to grease up paint scrapers and use ratchet straps to get it to fit between the chassis rails and that was with no motor. I can't imagine the drama of trying to fit it to the car with the motor in!

 

ms22427 - Yea I will have to trim that dowel pin down slightly as I think it will just touch the clutch fingers! good pick up. How did you go setting the rest of it up, master/clutch pedal ect?



#117 Cook

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Posted 15 February 2018 - 07:25 AM

Chris, doing a great job.  All good progress.  Regarding the sway bar Whitleine have a front mounted sway bar.  Not sure if it suits your application but I have trial fitted mine and the bracketry looks cumbersome especially if you aren't fitting a front air dam.  Cheers Ron



#118 myss427

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Posted 15 February 2018 - 07:43 AM

I have heard that is what people do, but my K-Frame was so damn tight! I had to grease up paint scrapers and use ratchet straps to get it to fit between the chassis rails and that was with no motor. I can't imagine the drama of trying to fit it to the car with the motor in!

 

ms22427 - Yea I will have to trim that dowel pin down slightly as I think it will just touch the clutch fingers! good pick up. How did you go setting the rest of it up, master/clutch pedal ect?

 

Used a Centre force clutch and made my own slave pedal arrangement under the dash, works fine. Had to trim the rod about 5 mm for good clearance, was pushing the fingers when bolting up.



#119 koalasprint

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Posted 15 February 2018 - 01:22 PM

This brings back memories. I was always told not to lubricate the pilot bearing. It is meant to be self lubricating.

I also had to shorten the thrust bearing guide pin as it hit the clutch fingers.

I had the standard Torana sway bar and had to go with a Whiteline forward mount. Otherwise there's no room for extractors and sway bar trying to occupy the same space. As Ron says forget the standard brake ducting if you go this way.

Other things to watch - starter motor, make sure that the throw on the drive gear goes forward enough. Mone seems to only go half way to the teeth on the flywheel.

Bellhousing centered? I had to use offset dowell pins to get it perfect.



#120 christolx

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Posted 16 February 2018 - 10:59 PM

Used a Centre force clutch and made my own slave pedal arrangement under the dash, works fine. Had to trim the rod about 5 mm for good clearance, was pushing the fingers when bolting up.

 

Yea, I am also using a Centre Force clutch. ok, I'll make sure I check that before the real fit up. 

 

 

Koalasprint - yep, I was aware they were self lubricating, however the American bloke on the youtube instructional video I was watching gave me some poor advice haha.  I have not had any experience so unfortunately learning from trial and error. 

 

I think I made a bad call and purchased the BF37 Whiteline swaybar instead of the forward mount BF35. Are these still better than the K-Mak version? I have spotted them on eBay recently but a bit of a price difference. 



#121 Rockoz

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Posted 17 February 2018 - 12:10 PM

Yeah was told never to lube the spigot.

When you see the way to get them out it makes some sense.



#122 gtrboyy

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Posted 17 February 2018 - 02:46 PM

Are they 3 piece or 1 piece rims? Expensive?



#123 koalasprint

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 03:09 PM

Hi Chris, with the sway bar I have driven both the standard set up and white line front mount. Both perform about the same. Whiteline maybe marginally better, but front mount was the only option for me.



#124 Heath

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 10:07 PM

They are single piece cast wheels, just a faux multi piece.

Interested in seeing the dash work... does look nice on that ashtray, obviously it's somewhat of a polarising thing but if it's finished well then I'm not against it.

#125 Bigfella237

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 11:06 PM

Interested in seeing the dash work... does look nice on that ashtray, obviously it's somewhat of a polarising thing but if it's finished well then I'm not against it.

 






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