47 replies to this topic

[lx308]

If you could drill a hole small enough & straight enough the flare tool would work I reckon. The rivet part of the new roller feels reasonably hard though

[lx308]

You would also have a bloody hard time holding the rivet piece from turning while drilling too...

[Cook]

Yeah, I wouldn't try it by hand.  I have access to a pedestal drill and just go slow and hold it with a pair of pliers.  Cheers Ron

[lx308]

I suppose you could just support the pin with a punch on the swivel end & belt the other end to peen it over? Gotta work!
Let me know how you go Ron! :-)

Might be my excuse to go & buy some new pin punches, I think...

[Cook]

No worries.

[Cook]

Well, first attempt hasn't worked.  I cut a small length of shank off the end of an old drill bit, the same size as the rivet face.  Drilled a blind hole in a piece of metal and hammered it in so that it sat up like a dowel, enough for the rivet face to sit on, as the rivet sits lower than the plastic slider so you can't just put it on the flat surface or you break the plastic.  I supported the window mech. and hit the back of rivet to flare it out.  Was working ok but hard to keep the rivet face on the dowel and eventually it slipped off while hammering and busted the plastic.

 

Next try will be to see if I can find a metalwork shop that can/will do this small job.  Cheers Ron 

[lx308]

It would work ok then, just need to make sure the punch is on the rivet face properly before each hit.
How hard is the rivet?
I'm yet to try, work & kids got in the way...

[Cook]

Yeah, I just found it a bit tricky to try and hold the mechanism tight to the rivet, balance the rivet and hit the thing, but then again I am by no means mechanically minded.  Rivet doesn't seem to be too hard.  I started with a round headed hammer to get the edges to flare out.  Cheers Ron

[lx308]

Thanks Ron. 2 person job I reckon. At least the parts are cheap!

Cheers.

[slar]

The shaft on the end is longer so it can be peened over with a ball pein hammer.
I removed the plastic slide first then inserted into the winder arm....then used an old teflon chopping board as a hard surface to place the ball end on and peened over the protruding shaft onto the winder arm...gently.....the chopping board protects the ball end but is hard enough to allow peening.....then clip the plastic slider back on an the jobs done....worked great and they where absolutely tight....have had no dramas.
Cheers
Al

[lx308]

Thanks Al. Didn't think the guide would've been that easy to remove from the rivet.

Cheers

[Cook]

Thanks Al.  Did your rivets look like this.  Sorry the photos not flash but you can see its a ball type head.  I'm not sure I could get the plastic off without breaking it.  Cheers Ron

 

Attached Files

•  Window Slider Rivet.jpg   122.49K   12 downloads

[slar]

Yep that's what they look like with the slider removed......don't get me wrong but you have to be careful but if you take your time and remove the slider the job then becomes much easier and is one man job.

The sliders are just a clip on fit over the ball after all the rivet and slider where made separate and just clipped together....so unclipping the slider shouldn't damage it....its just an interference fit.

[slar]

What I did to remove the rivet safely was to drill a hole in the chopping board a smidge bigger than the rivet.......place the rivet in the hole with the slider laying flat on the chopping board ensuring maximum support and used a pin punch through the hole in the top of the slider and sharply punched them out.

 

To replace the slider back onto the rivet once attached to the winder arm......lay the removed slider upside down on the chopping board......place the rivet ball in the slider ball recess and again give a sharp tap with a hammer and knock the rivet ball into the slider.....don't belt it....you will get a feel for it after the first one.

Just have a spare or two sliders in case you get it wrong.

[Cook]

Thanks Al, I will give it a try.  With the rivet out I'm contemplating just welding the rivet onto the arm.  Cheers Ron

[Cook]

Thanks again Al.  I got them out but a slight variation as I didn't want to hit them.  Got a G clamp, oversized socket and flaring seat (I think that's what it's called), and carefully pressed them out as per photos.

 

To hold the rivets in place on the arm, to start with I put a small dob of superglue on the underside to stop them moving.  After hitting over the rivet, pressed them back in with the g clamp. Cheers Ron

Attached Files

•  Fitting Window Sliders2.JPG   219.92K   6 downloads

[slar]

Ingenious ....... yes that's a good way to do it....hope it works out for you.

[lx308]

Popped the pin out of the slider in the vice using a socket. Fitted it to the arm then used the vice to fit the slider back onto the pin. All good.

[tuxedoss]

Is everyone still happy with the Rares slider as opposed to the roller? Other options I found were Kingswood country has same sliders and rollers about same price $10  and on ebay 2doorstore has some supposed high quality rollers for $15 each.

[Cook]

Hi Brett, sorry I can't comment as mine still aren't in the car.  One day.  Cheers Ron

[christolx]

Reviving an old thread. Do we still rate these sliders as opposed to the roller style?? 

 

Thanks

[Cook]

Sorry Chris.  Been nearly 4 years and I still haven't got the glass in the car to try them.  Hopefully within the next month or so. Cheers Ron

[lx308]

Worked fine in my car.