244 replies to this topic

[lctriples]

Thanks Eric, appreciate your comments. Hope to have engine running (temporarily set up) in next few weeks to make sure everything fits before painting. Will keep you updated with progress. having a few dramas at the moment fitting extractors as they were from commodore motor and not designed for torana engine bay, may have to do a bit of modification (ie mash hammer) as only want them to get engine running, then buy a proper set down the track. Thanks Paul.

[S pack]

Hi Paul

 

Just wondering if you realise your blue 3.3 has a red motor crank.

[lctriples]

Yes, good pick up. Long story short i basically took the best bits from a 202 red motor and 3.3 blue motor to build a bit of a "Frankenstien" job. The Blue motor crank was completely flogged out (had about 10mm end play) and red crank was in pretty good nick. Down side was red crank had to be balanced. Could you tell from photos that it was a red crank?, it so you must really know your stuff! Thanks Paul

[S pack]

Yes, good pick up. Long story short i basically took the best bits from a 202 red motor and 3.3 blue motor to build a bit of a "Frankenstien" job. The Blue motor crank was completely flogged out (had about 10mm end play) and red crank was in pretty good nick. Down side was red crank had to be balanced. Could you tell from photos that it was a red crank?, it so you must really know your stuff! Thanks Paul

Easy to spot the difference. Blue 202 crank is fully counter weighted, red crank isn't.

 

Cheers

Dave.

Edited by S pack, 15 July 2016 - 08:10 AM.

[ribz0]

sweet paul!! I will be watching to see how you get on... I got a my set of extractors from vic performance (they on ebay) as they had a set for LC/LJ for blue/black 12 port and were spot on!! price was great too!!

Cheers

Edited by ribz0, 16 July 2016 - 02:35 PM.

[lctriples]

Thanks eric, I have three sets of holden 6 extractors here and none even look like fitting. The ones from Vic Performance bolt straight in? I'll give them a ring on Monday as there are in Melbourne. If you don't mind me asking, how much did they set you back, cheers paul.  Have been reading your thread as well, where did you get plug/wiring socket for loom at rear of dash as I hope to do the same thing myself, and did you get gremlin sorted re car running on after ignition off?

[ribz0]

Hi ya Paul...

 

I sent you a PM as it wont let me paste a link here but I found them on vic performance web, not on ebay.. I paid $390 and am happy with them... will see how long they last... they call them CH-07A so im sure they can find them if yr chatting to them...  they have 1 5/8 primary, 1 3/4 secondary and 2 1/4 outlet and mandrel bent... The only thing I did with them was pump them out to match the gasket... they weren't as bad as the intake manifold.....

 

As for the connector plug for the dash... I cant remember but will have a look for you... no, I have not sorted the diode issue yet as Im away working so will sort it when I get home next... oh the joys of FIFO...  Im just running it as a standard set up for now and it works ok but I know its not getting full 12 volts....

 

Cheers

Edited by ribz0, 16 July 2016 - 11:16 PM.

[lctriples]

Progress Update:

Started to muck around with accelerator cable today but was way to long so will try and swap for a shorter one at rares. Then turned my attention to clutch cable set up and pretty happy how it turned out. Nice and smooth action, not too heavy on the pedal either. Went for a wb bellhousing and fork, HZ-WB 6 cylinder pull type cable. Did a very basic mod to end of clutch pedal and had an old oil filter threaded bolt from blue motor that I didn't need anymore which was a perfect fit to stabilize cable in firewall. Will hide thread exposed in engine bay with a grommet later and tidy up weld inside cabin when I start working on shell. Overall a relatively easy and cheap conversion from rat-trap to cable clutch which looks much neater in engine bay. Next on list is extractors (got your pm thanks eric, will ring them tomorrow) throttle cable and basic wiring to fire motor up.

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[lc2dr]

Hey Paul,

 

Good to see you're making some progress - looking very impressive.

 

I like the clutch cable setup - very neat work.

 

Cheers,

Jeff

[stevemc32]

G'day Paul, if you take the HZ cable to a cable guy they can shorten it so you don't have the big U-bend out in the engine bay.  I think it cost me $40 last one I got done.

 

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[lctriples]

Jeff: thanks mate, hope to have it fired up soon.

Steve: Good thinking, there is a company in Dandenong not far from work who might also be able to shorten accelerator cable.as well.

Cheers paul

[jd lj]

I notice that your webers appear to be early Italian built ones, what model are they and what jetting specs are you starting with?

I also see that you have angled ram tubes fitted.

[lctriples]

JDLC:

following is stamped on carbies, the photos are really poor I'm sorry:

"CARBURATORE WEBER BOLOGNA, BREVETTATO MADE IN ITALY TIPO: 45DCOE 13, NO: 5K, THEN 4C AND 8C " ON OTHER TWO.

Not much of a WEBER expert but apparently Italian ones are the preferred type before they started making them in the USA? maybe some one else knows a bit more about them. As far as jet size goes, my brother recoed and put a rebuild kit through them, I will ask him what type of jets he fitted on the weekend when he comes over to help with the resto. Angled ram tubes came with carbies when I picked them up at a swap meet last year, I am going to fit "domed" type ramflo filters.

Cheers Paul.

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[jd lj]

Hi Paul,
On that model of dcoe I'd suggest a 50f8 idle possibly up to 50f9. F2 emulsion tubes (probably with a slight mod in the future to reduce the flat spot at 2500 rpm), set the floats at 7.5-8mm. 34-35mm chokes if to be used on the street, 135 mains, approx 180air correctors, 40 pump jets with a medium pump rod spring. Those specs should get you up and running reasonably well, enough for you to have a big smile on your face. Different model dcoe's would've required different idle jets but I know that 50f8's are a good starting point for 45dcoe 13's.

If you decide to replace the ram tubes let me know, I may be interested in buying them.

I hope this helps.

It looks like they came up well with the rebuild.

[lctriples]

Thanks mate, appreciate your help and will use those settings as a guide. Once I get the filters I may take you up on the offer for ram tubes, thanks paul.

[jd lj]

I'm happy to help.
I'd use 4.5 auxiliary ventruis too, I should've mentioned that. Set the throttle stops so that the throttle plates are directly below the progression hole closet to the engine, they should be completely blocking that hole at idle. On that model of dcoe that should give you an idle close to 1000rpm.

[lctriples]

JDLJ:

Got motor running today and really happy how it sounds and runs, only took about 1/2 hr to get up and running once everything set up, and starts every time. The problem I have is that it idles really high, without a taco I would say about 2000 rpm. The idle speed screws have been backed right off, and don't seem to make any difference. In your last post you mentioned setting throttle plates to directly below progression hole closest  to engine to block hole at idle. As a bit of a Weber novice only having worked many years ago on single stommies that only had about 4 moving parts and two adjustment screws, are you able to steer me in the right direction. I have an excellent book "Rellin Tuning and Service Manual by William Hardiman" that I can refer to for technical terms and descriptions if that helps. 

Thanks in advance, Paul

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[lctriples]

I think I just found what you were referring to,  removed inspection plates and 1st carby I was able to close hole closest to engine but other two unable to do so even when pushed as far closed as possible which is  maybe why idling so high. (throttle not closing properly). I will check when I pull motor out in next few days to see why throttles/buttterflies not closing fully.

[jd lj]

Can you post some pictures of the progression holes as viewed from above with the screw in covers removed, hopefully to be able to see the throttle plates top edge through the holes.

What throttle arms are you using (on the spindles? I've seen some that have the wrong angle set up and even with the throttle stop screws wound right back they are holding the throttle plates slightly open, it could also be that you have a LH arm on the RH side or vice versa. Pictures of these will be helpful in diagnosing the problem too.

[lctriples]

JD LJ, pulled carbies off this arvo and found that throttle butterflies were not quite lined up in throttle bodies and when I removed, cleaned and replaced on carby 2 they now shut properly and I can sight top of brass butterfly through progression hole. Unfortunately one of the butterfly screw heads on carby 3 has stripped, and spindle on carby two turns slightly in retaining collar (where roller pin goes through) At least I know what the problem is and what I need to fix. I took some photos but they were not very good so didn't bother posting. Will keep you updated and thanks for your help.

[jd lj]

To position the throttle plates cut 4 strips of aluminium foil approximately 10mm wide and position them around the throttle plates with the screws slightly loosened but not removed. Then slightly open and close the throttle plates and this will help reposition them. Hold the spindle closed and tighten the screws then hold the carburetor up to the light and look for an even spacing around the plates. Once you're happy loctite the screws in place or crimp the threaded ends one at a time. This method achieves far superior results. Make sure that the screws can't come out and go through the motor.

As for the loose roll pin loctite make a paste to use on bearings that are loose in their bore, possibly this could work for your problem. The pin and hole should be 2mm in diameter, check the size of the existing pin just in case it's too small. Perhaps an oversized pin could be used. If you need to replace the spindle leave that job for a professional that specialises in webers such as weberperformance or BOI performance, special tools are necessary.

[lctriples]

JD LJ, was able to get all butterflies to close properly, ran vacuum hoses to pc valve/brake booster and blocked off ports between each carby manifold that I had a piece of threaded rod going through to help keep in one piece, all to try and seal off excessive air flow to fuel system. It seemed to help a bit but 2nd carby had fuel flowing into throat which I presume is not supposed to happen when idling, as no 1 and 3 did not, therefore was idling at high revs, but no-where as bad as before. Overall I'm pretty happy how engine sound/runs, really responsive acceleration and starts first time every time. (except when 5 litre jerry can ran out of fuel, jeesh, 5 litres didn't last long, imagine when fanging around the burbs!)  I will get properly jetted/tuned/set up when I re-fit motor after paint job. Thanks for all you help and advice so far, it has been invaluable.

[jd lj]

I'm happy to help, I'm glad you found some of the information useful.

When you say that there's fuel entering the barrel at idle can you see where it's coming from. It'll either be dripping from the pump jet (you can see the brass tip hanging down from the top of the barrel) if so put a new aluminium washer on the bottom end of the pump jet and reinstall it.

If the fuel is dripping from the nozzle of the auxiliary ventruis the I'd check the fuel level. With brass floats the gap should be 7.5 - 8mm on the float. If the float gap is set correctly but you still have fuel leaking from the auxiliary ventruis it could also be that the float has a hole in it which is allowing fuel to enter the float and making it sink. Remove the float and submerge it in fleshy boiled water and look for bubbles that keep appearing from the same position. Also check the needle and seat.

[LC-GTR-1969]

 it could also be that you have a LH arm on the RH side or vice versa. Pictures of these will be helpful in diagnosing the problem too.

It sounds like you have it sorted now, but for others searching the site and have the same issue in the future... this is important...

 

some throttle arms can easily be mixed up from left to right hand, and will not alow the butterflies to close all the way- the throttle tab is in a different spot for left and right on some of the throttle arms. 

Edited by LC-GTR-1969, 02 August 2016 - 04:53 PM.

[lctriples]

Exactly, but in this case I think it was a matter of fine adjustments to butterflies in spindle. I will sort idling issue when car is finished and back on the road. In hindsight, triple webers are not really something you buy at a swap, meet because if they are completely cactus then you have blown your hard earned, a risk you take I suppose and I was lucky mine seem to be relatively good. Probably one of the items best to hear running on a car or spend extra coin for new ones.