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lc to lj project


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#201 lctriples

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Posted 31 October 2020 - 07:19 PM

trailering to brothers house after 6 months of lockdown!

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#202 gad05

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Posted 02 November 2020 - 10:48 AM

Hi Paul,
Where did you hide your washer bottle?
Cheers Graham.

#203 lctriples

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Posted 02 November 2020 - 08:32 PM

Hey Graham, up under drivers side guard, ill try and get a photo for you when at brothers house tomorrow, There is just enough room to get gmh washer bottle and room to fill up with a sqeezee bottle. Paul



#204 gad05

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Posted 03 November 2020 - 10:50 AM

Thanks Paul that would be great.

#205 lctriples

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Posted 06 November 2020 - 08:26 PM

Graham, have attached photo of washer bottle, really hard to get a good photo as it is tucked so far under car, hope this helps, other photo just shows underside of car for forum in general, paul

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Edited by lctriples, 06 November 2020 - 08:26 PM.


#206 gad05

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Posted 07 November 2020 - 02:23 PM

All looks very neat and tidy under there Paul.

Nice work mate.



#207 lctriples

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Posted 20 December 2020 - 08:15 PM

Well its been about 4 years but the LC - LJ project has finally been completed. Took her for a test drive yesterday, Noisy, Smelly, Harsh ride, running rough as bags, but the most fun you can have with your pants on!. Forgot how much fun these little beasts are to drive. As soon as I iron out all the teething problems, will be a sweet little thing. Thanks to all the forum members for the encouragement, help, and advice which was invaluable and greatly appreciated. Booked in for RWC tomorrow, when doing all the final checks tonight realised p/s headlight not working. Checked globe - all good so must be a wiring glitch somewhere. Will have to check after rwc done, Cheers Paul.

PS: If anyone is thinking of painting an engine bay white, my advice would be don't. Will be painting black soon so doesn't show grease, dirt, oil, burn marks from when webers catch fire! :spoton:

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#208 lctriples

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Posted 24 December 2020 - 06:54 PM

Early Christmas present: got RWC and club reg Tuesday, have been driving the wheels off it since. First job is to rectify the high d/s front of bonnet, then get the front lowered. Hope everyone has a safe festive season, and lets say goodbye to 2020 for good!

 

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#209 sibhs

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Posted 24 December 2020 - 07:44 PM

Congratulations Paul on a job well done. I know the feeling and it's a pretty cool one. I got my LJ rego'd Christmas Eve 6 years ago today.

 

Enjoy your baby.

 

Marty



#210 rodomo

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Posted 24 December 2020 - 11:55 PM

:spoton:



#211 Ice

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Posted 25 December 2020 - 12:43 AM

Well done Paul another one on the road cant be a bad thing  :clap:



#212 S pack

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Posted 25 December 2020 - 08:05 AM

Great work Paul, probably the best Xmas pressie you ever gave yourself. :spoton:

 

I would however hunt for a good OEM steering rack and have it reconditioned ready to bolt on for when that repro steering rack wears itself out.



#213 Cook

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Posted 25 December 2020 - 08:30 AM

Awesome stuff Paul, and done in half the time as I have been chugging along and still not finished.  If you see an old fart with silver hair giving you a wave on the street that will be me.  Cheers Ron



#214 bat 53

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Posted 25 December 2020 - 11:11 AM

:spoton:  :clap:  :bowdown:



#215 lctriples

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Posted 26 December 2020 - 03:19 PM

Thanks everyone, appreciate the comments. Dave, will add to list of things to do and keep thread going with teething problems and stuff to sort out! 



#216 gad05

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Posted 27 December 2020 - 10:22 AM

Great to see she’s on the road Paul.
Well done mate.

Cheers Graham

#217 jd lj

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Posted 14 January 2022 - 12:54 PM

Paul has contacted me in regards to having some problems with his Webers. So I might as well post the information here and perhaps it'll help other people too. We'll work through it bit by bit.

So far he seems to be having trouble with the synchronisation of the carbs atm. Looking back at his photos he has a 3 piece manifold. These 3 piece manifolds can be problematic if not fitted carefully. They can't just be bolted up and expect that that's the job done. You need to ensure that if you put a straight edge across the top carb mounting studs that it's touching each stud. If these carb mounting studs aren't in line then the 3 spindles won't be in line with each other and whilst you may be able to synchronise the air flow at idle once off idle it'll be out again. To get these carb mounting studs to line up it may require some grinding or filing of the manifolds at the end closest to the head. It's worthwhile doing this with the extractors also in place.

It also looks like he's using a hex bar linkage which personally I'm not a fan of. With round bar linkages the top lever arms can be rotated a few degrees if necessary to allow for any discrepancies in other parts of the linkages. This can be important if the spindle levers are out by a few degrees compared to each other. Some of the common spindle levers out there have the left and right handed levers at a slightly different angle. I think that this has been fixed with the latest version, hopefully atleast.

The droplinks need to be set to exactly the same length between the ball and socket holes. This can be fiddly to get right but is needed as the initial set up.

More to follow later.

#218 lctriples

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Posted 14 January 2022 - 08:27 PM

Hey jd, thanks for responding to my request for help, i really do appreciate it, I have splashed out on a new set of billet style linkages, which i agree are a much better and versatile design. The three piece manifold i currently have came with second hand set of carbies, and although are supposed to be universal (9 or 12 port) even though the runners are individual, don't match inlet ports on head. I have tried to save some money my carefully matching the manifold as close as possible to head, as a new 12 port one piece manifold is $650.00. Am i better off biting the bullet and buying a new manifold, as never come up for sale second hand? I will play around with linkage arm lengths ect on weekend.

At the moment going from cylinder number 1 (front of engine)  to 6, air flow meter at 1,000 reads carby 1: 7,5, carby 2: 2.5 (problem carby) 7,  Carby 3: 5,5. At 2,000 rpm they read 11,11.  8, 11.  6,6. I 

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#219 lctriples

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Posted 14 January 2022 - 08:45 PM

ATM ithe carb's are running 34mm venturi chokes, 5.0 aux venturis, 145mm main jets, 180 air correction jets, 50/F8 idle jets, 50pump, F2 emulsion tubes and floats set to 8.0mm



#220 lctriples

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Posted 15 January 2022 - 04:34 AM

The other thing i forgot to mention is that the manifolds ports are around 5mm shorter (in height) than inlet ports on cylinder head, ( i presume to allow for 9 port red motor cylinder head as ports are shorter in height, compared to 12 port), cheers paul



#221 claysummers

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Posted 15 January 2022 - 06:01 AM

At least that works better than the other way around, when fitted to a red head.


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#222 jd lj

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Posted 15 January 2022 - 04:25 PM

So in relation to the manifold, that one has ports for fitting a balance hose between the runners (don't do this, it'll dilute the manifold vacuum level and make tuning and synchronising it harder) it looks like you have rubber caps over those but no hose clamps. These could potentially be leaking in air and affecting the synchronisation. It maybe worthwhile getting proper plugs to screw into them. A 9 port manifold on a 12 port head isn't ideal. If you were considering a new 12 port manifold (Lynx from Weber Performance) you could then probably sell your existing manifold for close to half of that cost.

If I'm interpreting your post correctly it sounds like the 2 throats on each carb have different airflow rates. This could be caused by a few things such as those rubber caps on the manifolds leaking,twisted spindles,misaligned throttle plates, leaking softmounts or leaking spindle seals. 45dcoe13's have leather spindle seals which can dry out and shrink, but they're easy enough to fix and should be soaked in mink oil prior to fitting, I'm sure that most people miss this step.
Twisted spindles or misaligned throttle plates can also be fixed but it's a bit of a tedious job to get right. I have a set here that I rebuilt that I need to check that on myself soon.

#223 jd lj

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Posted 15 January 2022 - 04:31 PM

ATM ithe carb's are running 34mm venturi chokes, 5.0 aux venturis, 145mm main jets, 180 air correction jets, 50/F8 idle jets, 50pump, F2 emulsion tubes and floats set to 8.0mm


I suspect that the 50 pump jets would be probably too big with 34mm chokes,I'd be more inclined to use 40's but it also depends on what size etc other pump circuit components are. The other jetting etc should be a close enough starting point. I suspect that you have a mid range flat spot when accelerating from around 2500rpms. We can address that once we sort out these other issues.

#224 lctriples

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Posted 15 January 2022 - 08:36 PM

Hey James, i dont think could sell manifold as a 9 port as i have altered them a fair bit to fit 12 port head (welded, filed, drilled them to fit 12 port stud pattern), What about running a strip of metal across all three to make one piece. Am happy to buy a new one piece manifold, but don't want to splash out $650.00 if dosn't resolve issues.  I will clamp off rubber stoppers to see if makes any difference. You cant see in photos but the 1st barrel on offending carb (carb 2) has a blue anodised plug blanking off vacuum port, so maybe that is leaking? What would be best to seal threads, simply plumbers teflon tape or should i use loctite thread sealer or similar? Have new soft mounts so they shouldn't be leaking, will try a few things tomorrow arvo and let you know how i get on, Havn't actually driven with webers on yet, so unsure about 2,500rpm issue, and yes numbers i posted were air flow figures per barrel/runner. Thanks for input and advice, paul


Edited by lctriples, 15 January 2022 - 08:43 PM.


#225 jd lj

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Posted 16 January 2022 - 12:41 AM

Either plumbers tape or thread seal by loctite and others is fine.




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