Auto should be fine. 400hp isn't hard or unusual.everything has its breaking point of course, but can't see an issue.
With the diff my suggestion would be get your wheels you want, the offset you want, sit them under the car and measure it. Guaranteed to fit first time that way
LS2 into LX
Started by
_Darklord_
, Apr 19 2016 04:21 PM
37 replies to this topic
#27
_LS2 Hatch_
_LS2 Hatch_
-
- Guests
Posted 25 May 2016 - 06:34 PM
As for reasonable price, that's depends what you call reaonable.
Mine recently cost 3k for the heavy duty housing, gears and centre casing using my Trutrac ($1200), and my billet axles ($1000).
That totals $5200 and is strong as I need, and will cope with more power than I have, and allow me to give it a hard time with no stress (I hope!!!)
My first housing cost me a lot less, but I bent, twisted and broke it. My first standard axles twisted, and I smashed my first standard casing.
So to me $5k is reasonable for what I now have.
I must add I give my car a hard time most times I drive it, whether it be road or track.
It really comes down to your driving style and what you want to do with the car. I always thought I would hardly see the track, and it was only going to be a Sunday cruiser that had an easy life. Not much changed, I still only have 400rwhp (not that much for today's number) but it gets driven a bit harder than I thought it would. Now with the setup I have, I don't stress and drive it anywhere.
My thoughts anyway. Hope they help
Mine recently cost 3k for the heavy duty housing, gears and centre casing using my Trutrac ($1200), and my billet axles ($1000).
That totals $5200 and is strong as I need, and will cope with more power than I have, and allow me to give it a hard time with no stress (I hope!!!)
My first housing cost me a lot less, but I bent, twisted and broke it. My first standard axles twisted, and I smashed my first standard casing.
So to me $5k is reasonable for what I now have.
I must add I give my car a hard time most times I drive it, whether it be road or track.
It really comes down to your driving style and what you want to do with the car. I always thought I would hardly see the track, and it was only going to be a Sunday cruiser that had an easy life. Not much changed, I still only have 400rwhp (not that much for today's number) but it gets driven a bit harder than I thought it would. Now with the setup I have, I don't stress and drive it anywhere.
My thoughts anyway. Hope they help
#28
_Darklord_
_Darklord_
-
- Guests
Posted 26 May 2016 - 01:42 PM
Thanks mate. So first step, buy wheels sit em under the car and measure whats needed for the diff. Sweet. I'm on it. Had a bit of progress this week, pulled out all the front end and sandblasted it. New bushes and ball joints ordered and will be painted up and fitted soon. Slowly coming together.
Also what gearbox are you running? Any other suggestions on what box. Normally I prefer manual but thought if I get a auto and manual shift then it would be better for the drags and still fun to drive. From a bit of googling I don't think that can be done with the 6 spd though :(
Where did you buy your 9 inch from? And the first one you broke, was it a 9 inch? 31 spline or 28? I'd rather do it right the first time and not have to worry about it so if it cost a bit more so be it. What ratio you running?
Sorry for all the questions, appreciate the help. Lots to learn and best to get the info from those in the know
Also what size rims and rubber did you manage to fit in?
#29
_LS2 Hatch_
_LS2 Hatch_
-
- Guests
Posted 26 May 2016 - 07:55 PM
My first diff was also built by the guy that built my second diff. It really wasn't his fault it broke. I told him I wanted it to handle 400-500 hp. I didn't tell him I was going to run slicks on a sticky track dumping the clutch at 6500rpm.
I asked him to build me a 9 inch using my standard Torana axle tubes and mounts. I tore the welds and the mounting brackets off the tubes. They were standard joints, not his welds. Also I was originally using standard 28 spline cut down commodore axles that I twisted. Again my fault. Skating it in third gear at 90km/h puts everything under a great deal of pressure.
Not telling you this to be a hero (or a dickhead), just to show why the diff broke, and that he built what I asked for.
My diff gears were 4.11's, and now they are 4.33's. I'm running 17x8 rims with 245-45-17 tyres. My gear box is a T56 Tremec with a .65 sixth gear. At 100km/h it's reving at 1800. With the 4.11 it was only just under that. In fifth it's about 2500, and in forth about 3500rpm at 100km/h.
I have no idea what an auto will allow you to do and not to do. I'm not experienced in them.
Sounds like your car is coming along nicely. Slow and steady wins the race.
Hope the above helps, but just remember, the above is my thoughts and my experience, hope it can help you make educated decisions for your your car.
Cheers
I asked him to build me a 9 inch using my standard Torana axle tubes and mounts. I tore the welds and the mounting brackets off the tubes. They were standard joints, not his welds. Also I was originally using standard 28 spline cut down commodore axles that I twisted. Again my fault. Skating it in third gear at 90km/h puts everything under a great deal of pressure.
Not telling you this to be a hero (or a dickhead), just to show why the diff broke, and that he built what I asked for.
My diff gears were 4.11's, and now they are 4.33's. I'm running 17x8 rims with 245-45-17 tyres. My gear box is a T56 Tremec with a .65 sixth gear. At 100km/h it's reving at 1800. With the 4.11 it was only just under that. In fifth it's about 2500, and in forth about 3500rpm at 100km/h.
I have no idea what an auto will allow you to do and not to do. I'm not experienced in them.
Sounds like your car is coming along nicely. Slow and steady wins the race.
Hope the above helps, but just remember, the above is my thoughts and my experience, hope it can help you make educated decisions for your your car.
Cheers
#30
_Darklord_
_Darklord_
-
- Guests
Posted 01 June 2016 - 11:19 AM
Thanks mate, every bit helps.
Another questions - what brakes are you running? Looking at wheels and am thinking of running the brakes off the VE SS (or whichever donor car with L98) and 17x 10 and 17 x 8 inch rims if this is even possible. If not I will need to look at brakes.
Also thinking of using the diff to keep costs down. Might be a problem if I get hooked on the strip though.....if not it should be fine. Auto should help a bit. Plenty of commodores using them at the drags so might be an option. $$$ is building up fast so if I can use as much as possible from the donor car it will save heaps
Edited by Darklord, 01 June 2016 - 11:20 AM.
#31
_LS2 Hatch_
_LS2 Hatch_
-
- Guests
Posted 01 June 2016 - 02:04 PM
I'm running the Hoppers stoppers front brake upgrade, and I changed o commodore stud pattern (don't really know why I did that. More period correct looking wheels in HQ pattern). They run a 290mm disc with calipers off an AU serries 2. Basically the sakes as VT front brakes with a different bolt hole centre making it easier for adaptor plates. They seem to work well. On the rear I have early model commodore disc. Basically the same from VB -VT I think, may only be same to VS.
I don't think you can get a 17" rim over the VE brakes, nor do I know if they are an easy fit or not. Haven't seen it done.
As for the VE diff, they are an independent rear, so no longer a live axle, that won't be an easy or cheap set up at all. If looking to save $$, I suggest working out what width diff you need then keeping an eye out on eBay. There are some bargains to be found if you know hat your looking for. Dollars does add up quick especially when you have to pay others to do work for you. It's all part of the adventure
Depending on what you intend on using from the donor car, it may be cheaper to just buy the engine and box. Not all auto elects use the loom and computer, radiator won't fit, tail shaft no good to you, interior no good unless your going to retro build the interior using the dash etc.. So, a donor car my be extra coin for no advantage.
All food for thought. I'm sure you have a plan, so work through the plan properly and I'm sure you will be fine
I don't think you can get a 17" rim over the VE brakes, nor do I know if they are an easy fit or not. Haven't seen it done.
As for the VE diff, they are an independent rear, so no longer a live axle, that won't be an easy or cheap set up at all. If looking to save $$, I suggest working out what width diff you need then keeping an eye out on eBay. There are some bargains to be found if you know hat your looking for. Dollars does add up quick especially when you have to pay others to do work for you. It's all part of the adventure
Depending on what you intend on using from the donor car, it may be cheaper to just buy the engine and box. Not all auto elects use the loom and computer, radiator won't fit, tail shaft no good to you, interior no good unless your going to retro build the interior using the dash etc.. So, a donor car my be extra coin for no advantage.
All food for thought. I'm sure you have a plan, so work through the plan properly and I'm sure you will be fine
#32
_Darklord_
_Darklord_
-
- Guests
Posted 01 June 2016 - 03:50 PM
Mate, thats awesome advice and just what I needed. Was wondering about just getting engine and box or full car but you answered heaps of questions - diff, radiator, brakes etc is no good. Time to go engine/box shopping.
Did look at getting a 4l80e but hard to source and very expensive unless anyone knows any different.
HQ vs commodore pattern - still tossing up on this one. Have been leaning towards FR17 simmons.....not sold yet though and Hopper Stoppers mentions problems with simmons - having to use spacers. Any advice?
Cheers again
#33
_LS2 Hatch_
_LS2 Hatch_
-
- Guests
Posted 01 June 2016 - 05:22 PM
Mine has FR17's with no issues. 17x8 all round no flares and no tubs.
I suggest doing all homework before purchasing anything.
If you can completely plan the build on paper then research compatibility before you she'll out your hard earnt coin.
If possible pick your engineer, your auto elec, and even exhaust and brake guys. They will be able to give small bits of advise that may save money and time as you go.
My wiring loom as an example is a GM Performance unit with ECU and accelerator pedal (I am fly by wire, no throttle cable). It was cheaper to buy this than to pay the auto elec to modify a standard loom and ECU. Some guys can do it themselves, then that's a saving, but I can't do that side of things.
So, plan it out, then purchase.
Again these are my experiences and advise. There is more than one way to build your car, this is just my way.
I was really hoping a few of the more knowledgable Gus would have jumped in and given some ideas, I know they have different ideas that would be of great value.
Once again, good luck
I suggest doing all homework before purchasing anything.
If you can completely plan the build on paper then research compatibility before you she'll out your hard earnt coin.
If possible pick your engineer, your auto elec, and even exhaust and brake guys. They will be able to give small bits of advise that may save money and time as you go.
My wiring loom as an example is a GM Performance unit with ECU and accelerator pedal (I am fly by wire, no throttle cable). It was cheaper to buy this than to pay the auto elec to modify a standard loom and ECU. Some guys can do it themselves, then that's a saving, but I can't do that side of things.
So, plan it out, then purchase.
Again these are my experiences and advise. There is more than one way to build your car, this is just my way.
I was really hoping a few of the more knowledgable Gus would have jumped in and given some ideas, I know they have different ideas that would be of great value.
Once again, good luck
Edited by LS2 Hatch, 01 June 2016 - 05:23 PM.
#34
_LS1 Hatch_
_LS1 Hatch_
-
- Guests
Posted 02 June 2016 - 01:03 AM
I'd say go with HQ stud pattern...a lot wider assortment of wheels out there, even modern styles you'll get in that pattern since it was used on so many cars here as well. Of course if you are going new custom sort of wheels you could get them drill in what ever you were using.
As for a 4L80E you mentioned...they are no big deal to source from here but I would tend to shy away from that. They are a physically larger box somewhat and might give you a few more mounting things to think about and not really necessary I would think since you can do so much in building up a 4l60e
One thing with buying a car to get the engine out of versus just buying an engine and trans on the ground basically.. even if you don't use stuff like the brakes and diff, etc... if you have the room to do it, you could part out the rest of the car and sell stuff off and pay off most of what you are keeping (depending on the deal you get on the car in the first place, especially if you bought a wreck that wasn't hit too hard and had lots of good bits on it still)
#35
_Darklord_
_Darklord_
-
- Guests
Posted 02 June 2016 - 03:19 PM
Cheers for the advice fellas. So plan at the moment:
Source a L98 with around 100km on it with a 6l80e box (not to keen on the 4l60, read up on it and need to spend big $$$ to get it good)
Brakes - hopper stoppers.
Diff - 9inch with true trac, will look at this after i get wheels
Wheels - FR17's or something similar. Really like the tough look. Have seen a few alternatives so doing some research. 17x8 225/35 17x10 265/35
Question with wheels - how much dish? I would like a fair amount, IFA 355 has some great looking wheels, ROH Modena and they look great but are 18's. Would like a similar amount of dish though. Just checking - rear I can do what I like as I can make diff to match but what about front? How much dish/backspace/offset can I have?
#36
Punchy
-
- Members
-
- 172 posts
Forum Member
- Name:Scott McCulloch
- Location:Brisbane, Southside
- Car:77' Lx Hatch
- Joined: 17-May 09
Posted 04 June 2016 - 07:26 PM
I recently went through with the rear end experience. It cost a lot of money.. But there's no genuine street engine that can break my diff no matter what I do to it.
There's a thread about 9 inch substitutes on here in driveline I believe, which has a write up about it. But heres pic of what I ended up with.
Standard diff is 1440mm wide wheel mount to wheel mount ( IE drum outer to drum outer ) I went 1 inch over all shorter which made it 1415mm wide with the brake rotors on. Rear brakes are just VT commodore rears. lets you fix 15's even with a 5 inch back space easily. Yes you'll stop just as nicely as bigger brakes...we are talking about the back here..not the front.
Current rear wheels are 8.5 wide and I have bags of room with 225/60/15 tyres
Attached Files
#37
_Ls1_sshatch_
_Ls1_sshatch_
-
- Guests
Posted 06 July 2016 - 07:13 AM
Am giving up with my Tuff Mounts/Moroso Sump setup now
Has anyone had luck with the Rodshop kit?
I used the rod shop kit about 12 years ago when I first started building my hatch. It did eventually fit but I did have problems. The sump wouldn't clear the k frame, so that took about a week after work out at my uncles place chopping, welding and test fitting to a spare k frame I had. The motor also sat back in the bay a fair bit and had to trim the little lip at the back of the engine bay and modify the heater box. I also used the cae extractors which are poor quality press bent pipes which also didn't fit, I had one pipe that had to be flattened out just slightly which was failing on the steering. Hope this helps. But I'm guessing the kit has probably changed by now
#38
_LXJET_
_LXJET_
-
- Guests
Posted 08 July 2016 - 02:51 PM
I recently went through with the rear end experience. It cost a lot of money.. But there's no genuine street engine that can break my diff no matter what I do to it.
There's a thread about 9 inch substitutes on here in driveline I believe, which has a write up about it. But heres pic of what I ended up with.
Standard diff is 1440mm wide wheel mount to wheel mount ( IE drum outer to drum outer ) I went 1 inch over all shorter which made it 1415mm wide with the brake rotors on. Rear brakes are just VT commodore rears. lets you fix 15's even with a 5 inch back space easily. Yes you'll stop just as nicely as bigger brakes...we are talking about the back here..not the front.
Current rear wheels are 8.5 wide and I have bags of room with 225/60/15 tyres
I love your car Punchy! How much did that diff setup set you back if you don't mind me asking?
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users
