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Starter motor for 355


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#1 Orange SS

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Posted 20 July 2016 - 08:52 AM

I am just wondering what Starter Motor everyone is using? Mine decided to smash the top dome off and in the process tore the teeth off the flex plate so I might get a better one this time. There's a few different types available but what is a good starter without going too expensive?

 

For some reason I cannot post links here are a couple I found.

 

A copy of what I had is only $180 - just a standard V8 holden starter - but now I have upgraded the engine completely - I don't want the same issue happening.

 

The RPC on ebay from seller engine.master for $320 gives a 2HP starter without the little dome top and a solid alloy adjustable bolt on face. Has anyone used these?

 

Theres also a cheaper version of it with a 2.5HP starter available from seller speedmasteraus - which I suspect is procomp? So I will prob stay away from it.

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#2 UCgazman

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Posted 20 July 2016 - 12:57 PM

Lots of issues with aftermarket starter motors and flex plates, search the forum - you might decide to use a stock one...


Edited by UCgazman, 20 July 2016 - 12:58 PM.


#3 mick_in_oz

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Posted 20 July 2016 - 07:14 PM

Mine's only ever had the original Bosch non-gear reduction starter, was new maybe 20 years ago, still going fine, has to spin over a 12.2:1 comp 363" (offset ground 355) early head with Tri-y's and Dash3's



#4 Cook

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Posted 20 July 2016 - 07:38 PM

I will be interested in the advices given, as I am doing some research on this at the moment.  I will be running a 355 and when trial fitting I  have issues with starter motor and pacemaker extractors. A few people have suggested later model commodore starters (VN, VP etc.) Cheers Ron



#5 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 20 July 2016 - 07:47 PM

I've worked on a few Holden v8s that have stuffed starters and flex plates. Basically, if the motor has been machined/bored/balanced or has aftermarket starter/flex plate/flywheel etc it is worth measuring gear lash and shimming the starter to get correct engagement.

What the OP describes with snapped starter snout and chewed teeth is exactly what a motor which had not enough engagement was doing.

#6 ozyozyozy

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Posted 20 July 2016 - 08:47 PM

Had no issues using vs 5 litre bosch.
Depending on extractors may have issues fitting a large one like that.

#7 rexy

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Posted 20 July 2016 - 10:19 PM

My original factory starter is still going strong. It's outlived all the engine combos over the years.
For the last 15 years it's happily turned over the 11.3:1 383 with its roller cam big gorilla springs.
Factory flywheel.
No problem fitting with HIgh Energy sump and CAE 1.75" primary tri-y pipes.

#8 IMORAL

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Posted 20 July 2016 - 10:48 PM

VN v8 in mine. Half the size of the standard one i had. Turns over 13:1 comp no worries

#9 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 20 July 2016 - 11:17 PM

Lol.
So long as the starter and ring gear are in alignment I'm sure most starters will spin up most motors just fine.

The OP has an issue. We could get 200 more people to say that their starter has been good for their setup but it's still not helping the OP.

#10 Ando

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Posted 21 July 2016 - 04:16 AM

Those CVR or Speedmaster 308 starters with the rotating ally mount block do not fit with Torana extractors! I think the suppliers even state that fact.

 

Having said that, I had no choice but to use a CVR starter because of the external oil drain back lines running down the starter side & into the sump. Had to plug weld 4 holes up in the alloy mount block & drill in between the plugged up holes to achieve best rotation. Also peon-ed in flat spot on the header pipe to clear, back grind the engine block casting & remove some casting of the starter housing. Pain in the ass!! 

 

Had a close look at the Speedmaster (Pro Comp) starter & decided the CVR looked more robust.

 

Prior to this new motor, I had a 304 type starter & no problems at all but make sure you have proper gear tooth engagement & lash..use shims if required.

 

Hope this helps, Cheers

 

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#11 Orange SS

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Posted 21 July 2016 - 07:36 AM

I am running pacemaker extractors (the larger pipe size/competition type) and only had a standard style starter & It was working fine for about 8 years until it decided to end up in bits. I may be better off just getting another standard starter or maybe trial fit a VS starter if these other types don't fit with the extractors.



#12 ozyozyozy

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Posted 21 July 2016 - 08:10 PM

What ando was refering to is what i meant.

Tilton make a starter to fit holdens, couldnt tell you part no. Tho.

#13 gtrboyy

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Posted 21 July 2016 - 09:14 PM

Stick with the genuine vs v8 type starter...they work well for high comp engines.

 

Read fair few blokes had trouble with most aftermarket starters not up to snuff trying to save money.



#14 Orange SS

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Posted 23 July 2016 - 07:17 PM

This is what happened to the last starter. I thought it was a Bosch but it's actually a jaylec starter.

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#15 _hutch_

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Posted 24 July 2016 - 05:04 PM

IGN timing out will cause kick back and snap the nose cone as well,the other thing that happens is if ya try to start the engine before it comes to a complete stop and kicks back against compression,not so prevalent in V8 stick with genuine Bosch



#16 ben23

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Posted 24 July 2016 - 09:47 PM

The Jaylec aftermarket ones are garbage. I had problems with them on standard cars back when I used to work on cars a whole lot. Better off just rebuilding a VN-VS 5 litre bosch starter and fitting but being sure to check proper tooth engagement.



#17 Orange SS

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Posted 25 July 2016 - 10:18 AM

The only trouble I had from the Jaylec in 8 years was when it finally self destructed. Never had any hot starting dramas or any issue. but I think I'll go to a bosch unit now but even bosch products would be made in a sweat shop most likely somewhere in china so the quality of expensive "good brand" products isn't what it used to be.



#18 Orange SS

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 03:20 PM

well bad news for anyone wanting a Bosch starter. They do not make the starter with an offset solenoid anymore. So its only cheap brands available now.



#19 UCgazman

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 04:52 PM

Do you mean the VN-VS ones?



#20 IMORAL

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 09:16 PM

Dont think he means the vn vs bosch ones
Mate brought one last week

#21 UCgazman

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 09:21 PM

I know! they are readily available, hence my question...



#22 Orange SS

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 09:36 PM

You can get the normal commodore starter. But for it to fit my torana it has to have the solenoid 90deg offset & that's the one no longer made.

#23 Tyre biter

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 09:52 PM

PM sent - might have something for you.
Cheers, TB

#24 Orange SS

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Posted 05 April 2020 - 10:01 PM

So since fitting the 355 in my torana I ended up fitting another jaylec starter as that is the only brand I have been able to buy that fits. Its had it's issues of getting too hot and I don't get a click or the engine turning over at all until it cools down. 

I bought an aeroflow starter but as it turns out like the CRV and others it's won't fit. 

 

I covered the starter in sticky back heat reflector and also fitted a heat shield off a commodore which was also wrapped in the sticky back stuff. And it still gets too hot. I think covering the starter may not have been wise as that may not allow heat to escape as I am sure some of it is heat soak. I have HPC coated extractors, and a high volume sump but nothing seems to keep it cool enough. 

 

 

I am trying to come up with ideas on how to keep the starter cool and a 12v air pump seems like an idea to try direct some more air flow to the starter area? Has anyone done this before?

 

 

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#25 Lima31

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Posted 06 April 2020 - 12:41 AM

Indeed when you wrapped it it could not vent hot air. Needs to have an air gap between the shield and the starter. Could you fit some of that rigid / corrugated aluminum heat shield in there.

Edited by Lima31, 06 April 2020 - 12:42 AM.





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