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350 chev into LH with T56 (Issues)


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#1 _A9X 05_

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 07:56 PM

I have a mate that has fitted a 350 chev with tough HQ engine mounts into a LH torana 4 door

 

He  has a T56 out of a firebird Camaro connected to it with a CAE performance (Castle headers) cross member

 

the tunnel has been cut to make room for the gearbox

 

The Issue Is:

 

Once all mounted in, the rear output shaft of the gearbox sits too close to the top of the tunnel.

 

 From centre of the output shaft to the top of the underside tunnel is 40mm

 

Does not seem right

 

Has anyone had any issues fitting this combo into a torana.

 

Any help will be much appreciated



#2 _A9X 05_

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 08:30 PM

Here are some pictures to go off

Attached Files



#3 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 08:30 PM

Is the engine and box sitting at the correct angle. Almost sounds like the rear mount is not the correct one. Possibly too high for that cross member

Just a thought

#4 Bigfella237

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 08:34 PM

First thing you need to know is the angle difference between the crankshaft / trans main shaft centreline and the car's centreline (when viewed from the side).

 

That will tell you whether the engine is sitting too high/low or whether you can just lower the trans x-member or whether you need to start cutting sheet metal?

 

EDIT: DOH, too slow, again


Edited by Bigfella237, 11 August 2016 - 08:39 PM.


#5 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 08:36 PM

To be honest, given its a CAE crossmember I'm not really surprised.
Check what you have been supplied verses what they spec you should have.
Not much of what they supply for Toranas actually fit from what I have read on this forum

#6 _A9X 05_

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 08:37 PM

The engine seems to be sitting correct . The gearbox mount is 50mm



#7 _A9X 05_

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 08:40 PM

The engine cant go down any lower as the engine sump  is close to the cross member



#8 dattoman

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 09:16 PM

Someone better drag out the engine mount pics again

HQ mounts are higher or lower than Torana... I don't remember



#9 derrin71

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 09:34 PM

Build your own x member. I don't know why people spend ridiculous money buying ones which don't fit.



#10 myss427

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Posted 11 August 2016 - 09:37 PM

Thats correct, the box is way longer than a depress, and to get 3 degrees with engine and diff, the back of the box almost touches the floor. Normally you cut the floor brace out and the box actually protrudes through the floor and a bit of new tunnel is fabricated in. All the conversions I have seen with T56's hanging low, vibrate. HQ mounts sit the engine 10mm lower, best ones to use.



#11 Ricky Bobby

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Posted 12 August 2016 - 01:05 PM

I am doing the same convertion at the moment, I am using the CRS cross member and the gear box output shaft is in the same position as yours.

I have cut away the bracing under the tunnel and will replace it a saddle brace inside the car. (Mine is a UC). I have just removed the engine and gearbox to weld the tunnel extention in place or I would have taken a pic.



#12 _A9X 05_

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Posted 17 August 2016 - 04:48 PM

thanks for all responses.



#13 ozyozyozy

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Posted 17 August 2016 - 08:00 PM

I changed my gearbox out at start of the year, not a t56 tho.
To get even 3 degrees angle i had to raise the entire tailshaft tunnel to give sufficient clearance.

An option is to fit spacers between x member and chasis to lower back of gearbox then adjust pinion angle to suit.

#14 myss427

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Posted 18 August 2016 - 08:38 AM

I changed my gearbox out at start of the year, not a t56 tho.
To get even 3 degrees angle i had to raise the entire tailshaft tunnel to give sufficient clearance.

An option is to fit spacers between x member and chasis to lower back of gearbox then adjust pinion angle to suit.

 

Agree, I had 20 mm alloy engine cross member spacers made to achieve the required angle.



#15 adrianh08

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Posted 15 March 2017 - 10:57 AM

Does anyone have any pictures of how they re did the floor brace when raising the entire tunnel?

 

I am in the process of working out how to do this.

 

I have a sedan tunnel and brace and  can use this to raise it up and I also have the tunnel out of a VE commodore but I am at a bit of a loss as to the best way to go about raising the tunnel.

 

I am trying to put a TR6060 box in. Cannot afford to change over to a magnum box and even the rear end conversion is the best part of $2000.

 

I am hoping to be able to get the tunnel up high enough to clear the original triangular flange on the gear box and then have a tailshaft made to suit this.

 

Was also considering have a tailshaft made with a CV joint on the front which apparently helps with vibration/angle issues but I really want to get the mnotor and box at the correct angle to avoid these issues hence having to raise the tunnel. And a fair whack too. Initial measurements show it has to go up about 50 mm from where the bottom of the floor brace is in the tunnel currently.

 

Any help or advice here would be greatly appreciated.



#16 ozyozyozy

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Posted 15 March 2017 - 11:11 PM

A commodore vy/ve trans tunnel would actually be quite strong, could prob just cut out the brace and graft in the tunnel.
Could use rectangular rhs modified to fit as a brace.
No real easy way of going about it, it is alot of work.

A car i am building HK has had a complete by commo tunnel transplanted.
You also may find you may need to raise part of the tailshaft tunnel.
Depending how much of the tunnel you cut out in one hit, if cutting entire tunnel out, you will also want to brace the bodyshell as it can twist without a tunnel.

I cut the brace and tunnel out, fabbed a new tunnel and used slighty thicker steal, my car is also caged which gives it some structural strength and my seat is also not mou ted in the same place.

Edited by ozyozyozy, 15 March 2017 - 11:32 PM.


#17 76lxhatch

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 05:03 AM

Raising the tunnel would definitely be the best solution to solve the issue, even if you did buy the Magnum version that would only help with the shifter and wouldn't change the driveshaft clearance. The seat mounting bolts might be useful for mounting a temporary brace if you're cutting a large chunk out, as long as you can work around it.

 

A front CV joint on the driveshaft would just add bulk where you don't want it, but if you wanted to go two piece then a Commodore style setup with centre CV allows you to correct weird angles on the cardan joints at front and rear.



#18 adrianh08

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 07:25 AM

Thanks fellas. I am looking at raising the whole tunnel including floor brace back to the rear seat to provide ample clearance for the box and tailshaft so I can get the pinion angle correct. The tunnel itself is pretty straight forward, it is the floor brace I am trying to decide what the best way to go is. The car is going to be engineered because of the motor so I want to make sure I do it well enough so I don't have any problems with that down the track. Any pictures from someone who has already done the same or similar thing would be great. I have found the odd picture here and there of people who have made changes, especially to the front of the tunnel and a portion of the floor brace but none so far where the entire brace has been lifted higher.



#19 myss427

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 07:47 AM

You don't need to remove the floor brace only trim it back a couple of inches for clearance. Just shape some 3mm plate up and weld back in, see some guys plat on top inside the car for better clearance. Commodore floor pan is the way to go, it made my job much easier. As Ozy said remove the floor bracing off the Commodore tunnel and weld in over the top of the Torana chassis rails, will be almost invisible from underneath.



#20 adrianh08

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 09:08 AM

Thanks Brett I appreciate the advice. I have a feeling the box is sitting up a little high as the top of the tri angular flange on the rear of the box at its highest point is not that far from the top of the floor brace. I definitely like the sound of your idea. If there is any chance you could come and have a look and tell me what you think id really appreciate it. Be more than happy to pay you for your time as I know you've been there and done that in regards to getting the floor right.



#21 myss427

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 12:09 PM

No worries, would have to work out a time, have been painting two club members cars and have not had a spare weekend in months.



#22 adrianh08

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 12:14 PM

Perfect mate Id really appreciate it. Just a few tips and advice for how I should attack it. Happy to work around your schedule.

My number is 0431260286 if you can shoot me a text we can work out a time that suits you.






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