know what you meant by forehand till i
checked haha
That was interesting little read Mick.made
me think how the hell would i fix the
shrinkage on lower sill till i found a
shrinking disc
I had a go at what you said Sunbird hater
I never changed my settings where i have it
turned up to penetrate. got about bit over
a cm before she burned through.once the heat
was in panel she just kept burning holes...
What this dude said sums it up nicely
The heat should b set to provide a full
penetration weld..I typically weld sheet metal
at the nxt higher settings from what the
machine calls for and do any tweaks from
there for example,the machines suggested
settings for sheet metal (or otherwise) are
based upona full weld pass.
But on sheetmetal.if you where to inspect the
weld afterward the start of the weld would be
cold,another inch long and it would b about
right,and another inch long (if you kept the
weld going) once the heat starts to build up it
would b on the borderline fromblowing out the
weld..For this reason most people using auto
sheet metal will weld one tack at a time,or
what i refer to as "Dot Welding". So since
this is done with a short Zap, it needs more
heat to to provide full penetration weld with
one dot we just welded..Since there is more
heat than the metal requires,there may b a
tendancy to blow a hole but before backing
off the heat,try increasing the wire feed
first (What you said Mick)
Think of it this way,if you are applying
enough heat to perform the weld but not
enough wire filler that said heat is looking
for,then it will burn away at the surrounding
panel,hence the blowout.You want a happy
medium that has the heat needed for full
penetration weld and enough wire speed that
it doesnt blow holes,All in one Dot....
Edited by madtoranajzedded, 24 August 2016 - 11:53 PM.
