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LS2 Engine ECM reference voltage question.


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#1 RallyRed

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 11:06 AM

Hi,

 

Probably belongs on some LS type forum, but I'm only on this, maybe someone here has experience. There is a long story for context, but the actual question is pretty simple.........

 

VE LS2

The car has recently been to a tuner as part of the turbo job., and was brought home running with a ""base tune"" map in it.

It was running fine and has done around 20km just chugging around the block etc.

It was brought home so we could revise the turbo cooling piping,

This piping work done and the car started and was idling away in the garage for about 10 minutes, when it shut itself off?

The dash displayed SAFETY MODE , POWER REDUCED MODE.(I understand this is a LIMP Mode that happens when the ECU has dramas with whats going on etc)

It wont start properly now and if it does it idles like a dog.

 

Plugged  in a scan tool and it reported -

 

SCAN TOOL                                                                                MY Assumption                     

P0030 HO2S Heater Control circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1               - may be a random, not important?

P0068 MAP / MAF Throttle Position Correlation                        - I take it the  relationship between to two, is not as per normal

P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low                              - what it says

P0641 Sensor Reference Votage A Circuit / Open                     - some automatic monitoring of the Reference Voltage is not happy

 

My reading of the above, is that there is a fault in the MAP/MAF/Throttle sensors area, however......

Had a poke around and was going to test the MAP sensor, but noticed when the key is turned to ""ON"" ,that the 5v supply to the MAP sensor ( from the ECM)  , is actually only around 4.2v...and it falls away to about 2.2v after a few seconds.????

NOT talking about the reference back to the ECM, talking about the actual 5v supply.

 

Checked a few other sensors ( Throttle, etc) and the 5v supply is exactly 5v, never wavers.

 

Each sensor is individualy wired from its own pin on the ECM plug. Checked out the plug and it appears fine.

 

The Question-

 

A. Has anyone had this issue ? 

B. As the ECM sends out multiple 5v supplies to various sensors in the engine area..seems funny that  only 1 of them has died.

Would have thought they were all common inside the casing of the ECM?

 

Thanks in advance.

Col



#2 EunUCh

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 08:26 PM

Never seen one , but if the 5v rail is falling away on the MAP it would either indicate that they used a "stand alone" regulator that

has gone crook under load or the MAP has a fault for some reason or maybe even for some other reason? , how does the 5v supply rail to the MAP behave when the plug is pulled from MAP ?

bloody electrics !



#3 RallyRed

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 08:29 PM

same with or without it plugged in.



#4 EunUCh

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 09:21 PM

Please don't take this as expert diagnostics (fires and otherwise taken at own risk ), i would grab a pair of trusty side cutters and snip the wire from ECU to MAP 5v rail and supply the MAP rail with an external source 5v to see what happens (connected to the MAP side) leaving the ECU end "open" , usually?  a 5v rail is low current supply to various sensors but who knows what they have on the bottom end of some of the outputs ?

 

 



#5 Rockoz

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Posted 23 October 2016 - 08:39 AM

Had a very similar problem on my Harley not long ago.

 

A bit of a background.

 

There is a 5v supply that supplies a number of sensors.

The computer will monitor continuosly at least 1 of these.

In the case of the Harley it was the MAP sensor.

The computer needs to see a minimum voltage returning from the sensor otherwise it will get unhappy.

 

I replaced the MAP sensor but that didnt cure the problem.

There was another sensor supplied by the 5v that was the problem.

Turned out to be the speed sensor in the case of the Harley.

 

Suggestions.

 

Grab a wiring diagram and find all sensors that run off the 5v supply.

Get your multimeter on to one of the connections and leave it there for the time being.

Disconnect the other sensors one by one and check the voltage.

Once you have disconnected the offending sensor the voltage will come back up to 5v



#6 grumpy xu1

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Posted 23 October 2016 - 09:14 AM

Hi Col, i would have thought that the ecu would recognize that the maf was no longer in use in the system. As your tuner would only be using the map now, i know that the map is on the back of the manifold on the ls1 & ls6 manifold & i thought it was at the front of the ls2. Assuming that you have checked the wire condition & map to see no damage is visible? Have you tried fitting a new map sensor in ? I think you where asking a question about maf map & throttle sensors, not trying to be rude, but originally it had a maf (mass air flow sensor) in the intake before the throttle body, on the throttle body which is a drive by wire, there is the tps (throttle position sensor) & iac (idle air control sensor) & then the map sensor is what will be running the settings now, seems that the maf is deleted i have another ecu but not here. I could have a look to see if i have a ls2 ecu layout drawing. Ls1tech.com is a great website for information on all things ls as well. Theoretically your tuner should most probably be the 1 to look at this issue for you, I'd run it there on the trailer. To me a sensor or relay is usually the most common fault of anything, especially when the computer system is inside the vehicle in a ve. the early vx type had 1 of the 3 in the engine bay right underneath the header tank ? So I'd try a new gm map sensor and check the wires 1st, heater sensor bank 1 sounds to me like the water temperature sensor in the passenger cylinder head at the front i see it says sensor 1 so obviously it is the 1st sensor in the system to give a reading & it would be pretty close to the exhaust manifold & the back of the turbo might pay to fit a new 1 of those & some reflecta sleeve around mate ! Gary.

#7 grumpy xu1

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Posted 23 October 2016 - 09:26 AM

Sorry Col, i forgot to mention i have seen some people have certain electrical issue's when not using a gm part as well, with some things, so i feel that using the genuine product could be to you advantage. There is a post on you tube of ls wiring it includes sensor positions ect, if i can find it i'll type it on here so you can view it mate. Gary.

#8 grumpy xu1

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Posted 23 October 2016 - 09:48 AM

Gm ls wiring 101 cbm motorsports (via youtube mate) hope this helps in some way.

#9 RallyRed

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Posted 23 October 2016 - 01:25 PM

Thanks for the replies guys...

Please don't take this as expert diagnostics (fires and otherwise taken at own risk ), i would grab a pair of trusty side cutters and snip the wire from ECU to MAP 5v rail and supply the MAP rail with an external source 5v to see what happens (connected to the MAP side) leaving the ECU end "open" , usually?  a 5v rail is low current supply to various sensors but who knows what they have on the bottom end of some of the outputs ?

May yet try that mate...however, I think if the ECM still ""believes"" there is a Ref Voltage isse ( P0641) it may still not behave, even though the MAP is now happy.

 

Had a very similar problem on my Harley not long ago.

 

A bit of a background.

 

There is a 5v supply that supplies a number of sensors.

The computer will monitor continuosly at least 1 of these.

In the case of the Harley it was the MAP sensor.

The computer needs to see a minimum voltage returning from the sensor otherwise it will get unhappy.

 

I replaced the MAP sensor but that didnt cure the problem.

There was another sensor supplied by the 5v that was the problem.

Turned out to be the speed sensor in the case of the Harley.

 

Suggestions.

 

Grab a wiring diagram and find all sensors that run off the 5v supply.

Get your multimeter on to one of the connections and leave it there for the time being.

Disconnect the other sensors one by one and check the voltage.

Once you have disconnected the offending sensor the voltage will come back up to 5v

Yeah, I have checked the other sensors that are available, and they all have a nice 5v, thus Im assuming the ECM has multiple supplies.coming out, almost sensor specific? The schematic shows only 1 device connected to ECM plug X2:terminal 43 = MAP sensor. However my issue  is the same with or without the sensor pluged in at the sensor end. . I do plan to unplug the big X2 plug at the ECM and see if pin 43 has a nice 5v on it with the big plug/harness removed, but Im thinking that plug also supplies the 12v to the ECM, so it will now be dead. Regardless I'll do it and see, as if there is 5v on the other 5v output pins, but not on 43 , with the big plug out, then its gotta be a dud ECM. i.e.the internal supply to pin 43 is rooted.

 

Hi Col, i would have thought that the ecu would recognize that the maf was no longer in use in the system. As your tuner would only be using the map now, i know that the map is on the back of the manifold on the ls1 & ls6 manifold & i thought it was at the front of the ls2. Assuming that you have checked the wire condition & map to see no damage is visible? Have you tried fitting a new map sensor in ? I think you where asking a question about maf map & throttle sensors, not trying to be rude, but originally it had a maf (mass air flow sensor) in the intake before the throttle body, on the throttle body which is a drive by wire, there is the tps (throttle position sensor) & iac (idle air control sensor) & then the map sensor is what will be running the settings now, seems that the maf is deleted i have another ecu but not here. I could have a look to see if i have a ls2 ecu layout drawing. Ls1tech.com is a great website for information on all things ls as well. Theoretically your tuner should most probably be the 1 to look at this issue for you, I'd run it there on the trailer. To me a sensor or relay is usually the most common fault of anything, especially when. the computer system is inside the vehicle in a ve. the early vx type had 1 of the 3 in the engine bay right underneath the header tank ? So I'd try a new gm map sensor and check the wires 1st, heater sensor bank 1 sounds to me like the water temperature sensor in the passenger cylinder head at the front i see it says sensor 1 so obviously it is the 1st sensor in the system to give a reading & it would be pretty close to the exhaust manifold & the back of the turbo might pay to fit a new 1 of those & some reflecta sleeve around mate ! Gary.

Yeah Gary..you have touched on a few things there....I wasnt smart enough to remember that the MAF was now non existant.!  doh. Thus the DTC codes related to that are probably b.s. 

Hae not tried a new MAP sensor, as the issue is the SUPPLY  to it, rather than the device IMHO.  Am looking for a ECU internal drawing, havent found one yet.

You are right mate, best to hand it to the tuner....he may well say "" yeah, the ECM ramps back the 5v to the MAP when its in safety mode!!""  or whatever..just to me , a 5v supply should always be 5v, and any signal manipulation should be done to the feedback signal.

Have unplugged the sensors near the turbo pipes, and no  difference.

Will ring the tunetomorrow and see what he reckons.

 

Appreciate the help guys. 

Ta

Col



#10 RallyRed

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Posted 27 May 2018 - 05:27 PM

Hi,

old thread, just stumbled upon it while searching for something else.

 

Just to close the loop on this.

We ended up finding that a BRAND NEW , genuine GM  part , being the oil pressure sensor, had developed an earth fault on it.

The ECM that supplies the 5v power  supply to this device, is ""short circuit proof"", thus when it senses a fault, it drops the 5v to 2.2v to limit the current. 

This 5v  versus  2.2v is a good thing , once you  understand it.

 

From memory, the 5v supply ( one of many) that feeds this oil pressure sensor ( analogue) also supplies the fuel pressure sensor and the A/C pressure sensor....thus the car also popped up random faults with these as well.

 

 

Long story short, a new oil pressure sensor , and no  more issues.

Easy fix....time consuming getting there.

I just cant cop replacing parts willy nilly ,without knowing  why, thus, it took a lot longer to actually find it.

 

Thanks for your help guys ( for a year or so ago)



#11 grumpy xu1

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Posted 27 May 2018 - 06:44 PM

Good to hear that mate. Hope it's all good now ! Gary.

#12 Rockoz

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 11:11 AM

Good to see you got it sorted.

Glad to see I was on the right track too.

Good wiring diagrams are very helpful for this type of thing.

 

My bike problem took a long time to finally sort out.

 

Firstly I had the speedo sensor earth out.

That dropped the 5v supply.

Fixed that but still had problems.

Think my regulator had fried and damaged the sensors.

Replaced lots of bits but still had a misfire and excessive heat.

Turned out the Crank Angle Sensor had fried too.

Trouble is the crank sensor doesnt throw a code unless it is totally shot.

Mine was giving intermittent pulses.

The computer actually believes what the Crank Angle Sensor is telling it under these conditions.

So no code.

 

Rang some so called experts and the info they gave me was less than I had already learned myself.

So they pretty much had no idea, but were happy to take the bike in to diagnose it.

 

Persistence and head scratching and asking a few questions in the right places can solve all sorts of issues



#13 RallyRed

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 01:35 PM

Good to see you got it sorted.

Glad to see I was on the right track too.

Good wiring diagrams are very helpful for this type of thing.

 

Persistence and head scratching and asking a few questions in the right places can solve all sorts of issues

Yes, thanks for your help , and Gary's too!

 

Wasnt untill I got the wiring diagrams that actually showed what went to each of the  2 x 96 pin plugs, that I had any chance. Was also then able to temporarily swap various sensors to various 5v supplies, and see if the fault followed.  Now know a lot more that I did....and will probably forget it all by net year!



#14 RallyRed

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 01:40 PM

Jjust another bit of info that really surprised me -  when putting it all back to normal, I inadvertantly left the crank angle sensor unplugged.

It started and ran?...several hours of starting and checking temps and flows and stuff later....it started to miss a little and then stalled and wouldnt start.

 

Got the shits and left it for the day.

 

Came back next morning and the first thing I saw was the crank sensor plug floating in the breeze. Plugged in and all 100%. 

 

How can it run with no sensor plugged in?....to my old head it would be like timing on a red 6 being some random number like 138deg advanced, yet still running.

 

Must have some limited memory of what the angle was? or fuzzy logic that can calculate it off other things?



#15 Bigfella237

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Posted 28 May 2018 - 04:26 PM

Likely some sort of "limp mode"? (no jokes, please) ;)



#16 grumpy xu1

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Posted 29 May 2018 - 06:13 PM

The cam sensor controls the starting & number 1 cylinder + timing, the crank sensor does cylinders 2 to 8. Probably wouldn't have driven really well as Andrew stated.

#17 RallyRed

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Posted 29 May 2018 - 06:35 PM

It's true, you learn sumfin every day.  Thanks gents.



#18 rodomo

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Posted 29 May 2018 - 10:36 PM

Get rid of that crap and put a 186 in it and aussie!

#19 RallyRed

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Posted 30 May 2018 - 08:04 AM

Get rid of that crap and put a 186 in it and aussie!

would be simpler



#20 Rockoz

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Posted 30 May 2018 - 09:06 AM

The new cars and bikes arent as difficult to fix as some would have you think.

But you need the right tools and equipment to do it.

It can be done without all the you beaut gear too.

Just makes it a harder and longer process.

 

Couple of my old mechanic mates could diagnose a problem with an old car as it drove in their driveway.

Experience does this.

They cut their teeth on cars from the 30s on.

Their teacher, their father, was around when cars were still very rare to see.

 

With the new stuff, you just have to get the experience, and not be scared of the technology.

 

Im an electrician. Where I work, I am handed the computerised stuff to work on.

Mainly the commercial cooking equipment.

The other guys just dont want to know.

Took me less than a week to get a handle on how to fix them.

They arent rocket science.

A couple of the guys who dont like doing this stuff are wizzes at PLC work.

Cant understand why they have trouble with the cooking stuff.

 

Again its just getting used to the gear.

 

But fault finding always follows a logical path.

 

Anyway Ive rambled on a bit too long.

Lots of endone is a lovely thing.



#21 RallyRed

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Posted 30 May 2018 - 04:26 PM

Lots of endone is a lovely thing.

until you want to do a poo






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