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Body deadened under hood lining


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#1 Lc69

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Posted 26 November 2016 - 09:21 PM

I Pulled my hood lining out today and found that the original body deadened used on the roof panel had mostly separated.
What's left looks like it will very easily scrape off.

I can see others have been faced with this but cant seem to find the best way to fix it.
I plan to scrape it off, wire brush or wheel, rust converter, paint.
Does this sound ok? Any suggestions?

Then, what have people done to replace the deadened?
Dynomat, something spray on?

Any help,would be appreciated.

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#2 UCSLE

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Posted 26 November 2016 - 09:35 PM

some on here say that stuff has asbestos in it so be careful

how good is the paint on the other side , wire wheel maybe to much heat ?



#3 Ice

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Posted 26 November 2016 - 09:40 PM

Scrap it off and go to bunnings a get a bottle of Whiteknight rust guard and brush it on
its a great product
that will fix your problem

#4 Covert

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Posted 26 November 2016 - 09:40 PM


I would scrape it off, hit it with a wire brush, bring back to bare metal and KBS it. Then fit dynomat

#5 Ice

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Posted 26 November 2016 - 09:41 PM

Infact do the whole under side of the turret i would

#6 Lc69

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Posted 26 November 2016 - 09:52 PM

Thanks guys.
So far i haven't touched it, but more than half fell off in sheets.
It will easily scrape off, and I think it will clean up ok with a wire brush.
Paint is good on the outside, so plan to take care.

Cheers for the whiteknight suggestion.
Seen this mentioned a few times. I believe you still need to rust convert first?

So Would you recommend dynamat extreme?

#7 Lc69

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Posted 26 November 2016 - 09:57 PM

Never used the KBS product, but it seems it's highly recommended.
What's the best method for preparing the surface for the KBS?

#8 grumpy xu1

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Posted 26 November 2016 - 10:59 PM

Clean it off use a clean and strip wheel (seaweed disc) lightly, use rust converter overnight reuse seaweed disc to clean it off. Use wax & grease remover, mask up & 2 pack epoxy prime, preferably then hi build & then put a top coat on it. If you want the original look put a texture coat from a automotive paint shop over the primer under the top coat. That's if you actually want to do the job probably. Please leave the white Knight and bunnings for diy gates though ! Use a good mask with everything like this you do, the 70's had this toxic stuff called lead just be careful guys & don't think that acrylic isn't dangerous either. Gary.

#9 grumpy xu1

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Posted 26 November 2016 - 11:07 PM

& the roof is an area of high condensation, that's why you DON'T put dynamat ect in there. Sikkens, ppg, dupont, protec ect all make 2 pack epoxy primer, you'll do it with 1 litre around $125 for a good epoxy. But it's the stuff to use. I can vouch for the Sikkens ep11 epoxy etch used it for lots of years. Im sure the other are good.

#10 _Skapinad_

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Posted 26 November 2016 - 11:41 PM

Any truth to the asbestos theory ?

#11 Indy Orange

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 12:01 AM

You betcha! The sound deadener used in the 70s had asbestos in it ,small particles used to bind it together.

#12 _Skapinad_

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 12:10 AM

Too late......

#13 Lc69

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 08:32 AM

Ok, so I'll try and find a good 2pac coating.
I hear what you are say about the condensation, I'm assuming this is why this happens.
I have seaweed wheels, and everything else. But I'm not looking forward to working upside down doing this,, ha ha

The dynamat would obviously give the roof some rigidity and sound deadening.
After researching I see plenty of people do it.
I'm not worried about the texture, but I am concerned about the roof being a bit "tinny" without something there.
If done properly the dynamat should seal from moisture, shouldn't it?

Sounds like safety is an issue. Wish I had known that before starting!
I have a bit to clean up now, so will follow the appropriate safety precautions.
Most of it has fallen off in sheets by itself, so hopefully the risk is low so far :(

#14 Ice

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 09:56 AM

& the roof is an area of high condensation, that's why you DON'T put dynamat ect in there. Sikkens, ppg, dupont, protec ect all make 2 pack epoxy primer, you'll do it with 1 litre around $125 for a good epoxy. But it's the stuff to use. I can vouch for the Sikkens ep11 epoxy etch used it for lots of years. Im sure the other are good.



#15 Indy Orange

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 10:24 AM

Ok, so I'll try and find a good 2pac coating.
I hear what you are say about the condensation, I'm assuming this is why this happens.
I have seaweed wheels, and everything else. But I'm not looking forward to working upside down doing this,, ha ha
The dynamat would obviously give the roof some rigidity and sound deadening.
After researching I see plenty of people do it.
I'm not worried about the texture, but I am concerned about the roof being a bit "tinny" without something there.
If done properly the dynamat should seal from moisture, shouldn't it?
Sounds like safety is an issue. Wish I had known that before starting!
I have a bit to clean up now, so will follow the appropriate safety precautions.
Most of it has fallen off in sheets by itself, so hopefully the risk is low so far :(

Wear a really good mask Tony ,and use a heat gun to soften it ,and a paint scraper ,but try not to get too much heat into the panel as you don't want to warp it.

#16 grumpy xu1

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 12:12 PM

Okay, so when you use the heat gun, just swirl your wrist in circles or left to right, whatever tickles your fancy, if you simply do the stated cleaning i mentioned, use a good quality 2 pack epoxy, rub with 180 free cut, wax & grease again, apply 2 coats of 2 pack high build rub with 180 free cut where you want the texture to go & 600 free cut the rest apply the texture & colour over the top of that, you will be rebuilding the out side before the inside no problem. Obviously allow for flash time, say 20 minutes between coats & obviously drying times. 3 coats of epoxy etch, 2 coats of high build, the desired amount of texture & 3 coats of 2 pack colour. Spray with a 1.2 - 1.4 tip easy as, this should answer all your questions, Gary.

#17 N/A-PWR

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 01:41 PM

Great topic and information to know Tony,

 

 for something just above our heads.

 

 

Looks like a restoration job I never thought of,

 

 that has to be done on the rotisserie while upside down.

 

 

 

 

Like button for you :) 

 

 

 

 

Adam, you said too late, meaning you done your Torana ceiling way back? 



Too late......



#18 Lc69

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 01:45 PM

I'm not worried about the texture or the colour because it will hopefully never be seen again anytime soon.
I don't have a spray gun, but I do have a compressor and mask.

Is there an alternative one-part system that could be brushed or rolled on?
Sounds like the KBS would fall into this category.
I know it's unlikely to be as superior as the 2pac, but setting up and spraying 2pac at home is not going to be straight forward.

Thanks for the heat gun tip. The removal shouldn't be too difficult, what's left is basically about to fall off.

#19 _Skapinad_

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 02:55 PM

Great topic and information to know Tony,

for something just above our heads.


Looks like a restoration job I never thought of,

that has to be done on the rotisserie while upside down.




Like button for you :)




Adam, you said too late, meaning you done your Torana ceiling way back?


Nah mate, I meant too late for exposure to asbestos....

#20 Covert

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 03:56 PM

KBS is hard as nails and a lot less stuffing around as you can just brush it on.

You can get the chassis coaster kit from a paint store or order online on the website.

Everything you need is in the kit and is a lot easier and probably better than the above method.

#21 EunUCh

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Posted 27 November 2016 - 07:31 PM

First things first , clean up the area under the "rollbar " and sika the thing in place to the roof , then proceed to remove the nasty shit they used back then with a high pressure water type paint removal system , let it dry then coat with whatever you want to stop drumming and rust ?

Large panels like a roof tend to warp with a machine that induces heat into the metal ,with even a hair dryer ?

 



#22 Lc69

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Posted 28 November 2016 - 07:36 PM

Thanks for the tips guys.
I'll update progress as I go.
Step 1, removal and clean up.

#23 boomfunk

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Posted 28 November 2016 - 07:59 PM

looks nasty but probably not much different to many others around that age



#24 Lc69

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Posted 28 November 2016 - 08:51 PM

It's looks far worse than it is. I'm confident it will clean up well.
It looks like a common issue, very glad I decided to take the hood lining out now.

Edited by Lc69, 28 November 2016 - 08:52 PM.


#25 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 29 November 2016 - 03:21 PM

Faaaark your joking with that asbestos arnt
you.I used scraper and wire wheel to clean
it off front and rear arches in the 90s

That roof looks like she needs a blast if you
can without damage.
i like the dustless blasting but water will
be a prob.b hard getting to rust under that
turret.i like that water proof ute liner
Etch surface then spray it on.

Will def need thick stuff back on .

Anyone got any experience using this stuff.
Any good for roof?
Attached File  download (5).jpg   10.68K   3 downloadsAttached File  $_35 (1).jpg   26.63K   3 downloads

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 29 November 2016 - 03:22 PM.





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